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1990 Ranger Brake Fluid Loss

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Old 04-28-2023
Jim@Fay1972's Avatar
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1990 Ranger Brake Fluid Loss

I,ve been adding brake fluid lately to my 1990 ranger 212,000k. I removed front wheels replaced worn pads but found no leaks. I crawled behind the rear wheels found no indication of a leak. Brakes operate fine. I searched every inch of brake line and found nothing. . Garage floor is dry. Now is it possible for brake fluid to leak into the booster and just be holding the fluid within the unit? Is it possible for fluid to be sucked into the engine via the boost vacaum hose? Help this old man out Thanks Jim Senn Athol Idaho
 
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Old 04-28-2023
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Loosen the nuts holding master to booster, see if there is brake fluid between them

No, brake fluid would be to heavy to pull out of a booster and into the intake

Common leak point on Ranger brake lines is between gas tank and frame rail in the single rear brake line, it rusts out
But should show a leak eventually
Put some card board down under that area, start engine, press and hold brake pedal down for a minute or two, maybe pump the pedal a few times
While holding brake pedal down steadily it should not move down even a little, if it does there is for sure a leak
Shut off engine and have a look, at the cardboard and at all wheels again
 

Last edited by RonD; 04-28-2023 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 11-20-2023
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Ron does the fuel tank have to be removed to replace this brake line.. I finally spotted brakefluid on garage florr by the fuel tank Thanks
 
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Old 11-20-2023
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No, I have had to replace a few rusted out rear brake lines on Rangers
Just put tape over the end of the new brake line and push it thru the frame rail next to gas tank

Brake line diameter is 3/16" on all Rangers
Fittings can be varied, lol, , 3/16-24 or 7/16-20 are the most common
I think this rear one has different size at each end

You can get bendable metal brake lines with fittings attached, any auto parts store should have these in different lengths, with "Ford" connectors
Get one thats long enough to push thru and that has fittings for the RABS connection at the front
(cut the current RUSTED line at both ends and remove the fittings so you can match them up"

Then use a shorter bendable line at the rear, that attaches to the new lines fitting and the frame mounted coupler for the flex line that goes to top of the axle

Once new line is in place, AFTER its all hooked up, and not leaking, lol, attach it to the frame as best you can, so its not rubbing on stuff or making a noise on bumps, lol
 
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