Throwout bearing will generally chirp when the pedal is pressed. Pilot bearing is spinning anytime its in gear with clutch down and engine running. Throwout bearing can squeak and chirp while driving if its not fully retracting or fingers on pressure plate and sticking out too far just grazing the bearing.

What noises does it make when you let the clutch out in neutral? Input bearing can rattle and whine in the trans.


Is this clutch disc ceramic? Much like cold ceramic brake pads first thing in the AM will squeal like mad coming to the first few stops.

 

Yes, +1

Pilot bearing can ONLY make a noise when flywheel and input shafts are at different RPMs, so clutch pedal must be down for that to happen, but throwout bearing can make a noise when pedal is up or down.

But overall I think it is a moot point since you SHOULD change both anytime transmission is out, and you have to take out or move back transmission to change either.
Throwout bearing can be purchased separately

If transmission is hard to get into 1st gear when stopped then clutch is not fully disengaging, clutch disc is rubbing on flywheel and/or pressure plate.
When you are stopped the transmission is at 0 RPMs, it is directly connected via drive shaft to rear wheels
Engine/flywheel/pressure plate are at 750RPM(idle)
So to put transmission into ANY gear when stopped, clutch disc and input shaft must go down to 0 RPMs
If clutch disc is rubbing then the 4" synchromesh gear will have a hard time slowing down and stopping the 10" clutch disc, just physics

A BRAND NEW clutch disc will often rub a bit, best to shift into 1st while still rolling, makes it easier, but this should go away in a few weeks as new disc wears down from the rubbing
Or double pump clutch pedal to try and get the most travel at the slave

On the clutch pedal there are a few bushings, one on the pivot point, top of pedal arm, and another on the pushrod, if either is worn down you won't get full travel at the slave
And of course any air in the system reduces slave travel
Master sits at a steep angle and air can get trapped at the top, and won't bleed out using regular bleeding methods, have to pull it out and bleed it upside down

 

I appreciate the Replies. I am not 100% sure about whether its a ceramic clutch kit I installed. It said "organic clutch " when I ordered it. What I find strange is that for the past year other then a slight chirp, everything has been fine.I'll check the pivot points to see if I am losing travel. This rattle noise concerns me, as everything I installed was all new. I had the flywheel resurfaced, had the new clutch disk and pressure plate. Installed a brand new pilot bearing ( old one had no bearings in it ). I even installed a full new throughout assembly piece with new bearing.

Noise sounds more worse over the past week or so. Please check out the video I took today. As you can see in the video in Neutral with no Clutch pressed, theres a slight rattle. Once i press the clutch and stick it in any gear theres a rattle thats half loud. Hopefully the video helps pick out what the problem is. I got about two weeks left to fix this problem myself before college starts again.

Video number 2

Thanks all, much appreciated.

 

Have a friend get in the truck and work the clutch pedal for you. Crawl under and pull the rubber plug on the driver's side of the bellhousing and look at the movement of the slave cylinder and the pressure plate. That should allow you to get a good look at the travel and you might be able to pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from.

Either way, if the noise comes from the bellhousing, you're going to have to pull the transmission.

 

Is there a easy way to pull the transmission on a 4.0 thats 4x4 with the manual transfer case? Like Should I pull it just complete all bolted together? I started to remove everything earlier. Forgot how annoying these things are to work on. Such as not being able to barely see or feel the starter bolts on top. I think I can just pull the full thing together.

 

Depends on how strong you are. Some people can deadlift the whole thing, others struggle with just the transmission itself. A transmission jack will definitely help. Just remember that there will be a pivot point. Do your best to keep the assembly level so that it doesn't come down hard on either end.

 

Appreciate the reply, ill use my floor jack as a tranny jack. I used it before with my old Jeep Wrangler with some plywood and 2x4's strapped to it. I then used a ratchet strap to hold it down before

 

That's basically the same way I drop mine. lol.

Just some extra info, but the 02-03 Level II trucks with the manual/manual setup have a special transmission access plate in the floor that is basically coated in rubber. This helps with sound deadening, but it can also make it hard to re-align the shifter stubs into the cab without destroying the rubber on that access plate. It's up to you if you want to lift the carpet and try to remove that plate.

That shifter assembly looks so cool but it's such a pain to work with. lol.

 

 

Thanks for the update

Good that both are being replaced