With now running a toyota power steering box I dont think my stock ranger steering pump can handle the load/pressure required.

Does anyone have specs on the ranger pump? How many PSI it is outputting and the GPM?

Also what other pumps will mount to the 4.0? Going to require a custom bracket I suppose?

 

the extreme duty toyota pump from PSC outputs 1600 psi and 4.5 gpm.

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/produc...roducts_id=512

 

what about using a 95-97 4.0 OHV power steering pump? i think they are different since the TTB gear box needs more to make it work...

 

It has GT badging and dual exhaust lol

 

Zach,

I do not know of the specs of our box, so I'm quite curious to see if/when someone comes up with the info.

I recently spoke with Kelvin at PSC about the 4.0 and pump. According to him and my description, ours being a pump with a remote reserviour, there is no 'out the door' upgrade for our engine through them. However, he assured me that the pump on our 4.0's is a damn good one and (for my application) should handle the extra load of a steering assist ram pretty easily.

I'm not sure how your steering feels, but I've never had an issue with mine. Even with my 38's, on the street, it has always felt pretty fluid and as close to rack-and-pinion as as setup such as ours can get.

 

my problem is i cant turn the wheel sitting at a light...

can you kevin? if our pump can handle it im thinking about getting a ram assist and porting the yota box...

when i talked to PSC he said it would be much better if i got rid of that POS Ford pump which got me thinkin... I dont know who i talked to.

also i think going to high steer will fix some of my problems too. the bearing on the steering shaft helped a lot but not as much as i wanted it too

 

sorry to thread jack, but did anyone else notice on that ranger they only had a gt badge on the front left fender? they couldnt even afford any more of them...

 

Don't forget the dual exhaust!!!

 

Zach, Before assuming that you should just up the pressure. Make sure that the distance from the knuckles pivot to the tie rod ball is the same as the toyotas. If it's shorter.. then the effort is higher. Upping the pressure may "work" but you may wind up overloading a ball joint on the knuckle or tie rod.

Rich

 

I have no problems turning the wheel when sitting at a light with either set of 35" tires on.

BUT: if I want to spin the wheel really fast it suddenly resists hard in either direction like a bind -- but it's not. If I lift the wheels, no problem. Obviously the pump can't deliver the volume when putting out the pressure to move the wheels under worst case conditions.

So, I believe the pressure/volume curve is not right, but I can use the thing as it is -- though I too would like to hear some numbers if anyone finds them.

An awful lot of Ford PS pumps can be interchanged mechanically. If you look, most of them use the same 3-bolt pattern to mount them to the bracket designed for the specific application. Furthermore, they have a standard thread on the pump body that an o-ring type adapter screws into, making it easy to change the pump over to different fitting types.

In some remote reservoir types, you may find it's just an adaptor to the standard pump body -- don't know.

My thought is that even some older F-150 style pumps designed for the bigger steering boxes can be put in there. It's on my list of things to look at.

What I haven't looked at is if there are many different bolt circle diameters to that 3 bolt mounting the pumps use. It doesn't look like it a glance.

 

im a bit confused on what you are trying to say... elaborate more? sorry.

 

hmm... so u can literally just turn the wheel?

ive been dealing with mine for over a year. not a huge deal but i want it better

want - need... lol

 

Yes, it worked that way even before I put the better steering box in. Could be the difference between the 'Yota and Ford steering boxes.

The type of pump in all 1979 and later Fords except some vans and big trucks is the C2 style pump which looks like this:



From what I'm reading they're all the same pump! But it's possible that orifices in the fitting adapter and some kind of valving/spring mechanism that is behind the fitting set the flow/pressure curve and relief pressure.

I'm still looking into this. It's possible that a new pump with some modifications to the components that set the operating parameters would accomplish what is needed.

 

awesome... only thing is that does not look anything like the ranger pump... lol maybe its the a/c in the road.

 

you ought to consider swapping out to the F-150 steering boxes.....they are stronger and from what John says, they work better with the Ranger steering pump....

 

Zach, what he's saying about the tie rod and the steering arms is this: if your steering arms are shorter than the stock toyota steering arms (which the toyota box was designed to work with) then your steering box has less leverage when it pushes/pulls the shorter steering arm. torque= applied force x length of the radius arm. Getting longer steering arms may make it easier to turn.

 

It looks EXACTLY like the Ranger pump. You're seeing (as I did at first) the mounting bracket which completely surrounds it and looks like it's the pump housing or something -- it's not. Have another look and you'll see what I mean.

 

Another thing to consider is excessive caster and the scrub radius.

Scrub radius is the offset of the pivot point on which tire rotates on the ground from the actual center of the tires contact with the ground. It "scrubs" as you turn it.

There's always a bit because of caster. Manufacturers design the wheels with a certain scrub radius for stability as well. However, generally the mounting surface position and wheel offset are designed to minimize scrub radius.

Wider tires and less backspacing increase scrub radius dramatically. This increases steering force.

The Dana 30 in particular may have had the knuckle area designed for the high backspacing wheels of a Jeep. So, when you put it on a Ranger and put low backspaced wide wheels on it -- even worse.

It's quite possible if you had the D44 on you wouldn't have this problem -- don't know.

 

oh ok. well i had a thread like this before discussing high steer arms as we decided that it really is not going to help that much...

oh ok. makes sense i will look again.

i completely understand what you are saying john, makes perfect sense and could be my ultimate problem... my new wheels for the D44 do not have this low backspacing and are not as wide. this really makes me wish i had the D44 on... only a few more months...

 

i am not going to buy a new box.... they are too costly and i really dont think that is the problem.

 

I have no problem turning my 15" wide tires when not moving. I really do think high steer will help out due to the physical changes in points of force and leverage.

 

But again, it's not necessarily going to help here since he's not putting high steer on the D30.

And, I can turn them fine with the stock pump on my D44 with 35's.

The problem with longer arms is it will take more turns of the steering wheel to turn the wheels. That's a definite consideration to regard as well. You don't get something for nothing and if you give yourself more moment with a longer arm, you will have to travel more distance on the circumference of the "circle" to get the same angle change in the wheels.

 

Another half random note..

I was looking at the engine specs..

ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Power: 107kW, 143HP SAE @ 5200 rpm; 154 ft lb, 209Nm @ 3000 rpm
Fuel Economy EPA Highway (|/100km): 29, EPA Highway (mpg): 8.1, EPA City (|/100km): 24, EPA City(mpg): 9.8


Look at the gas mileage.... wtf? lol