Power Window issue
Power Window issue
2002 4x4 XLT Ranger has developed a power window issue. From master switches on drivers side, drivers window will always go down, but not back up. It has gone back up so far at some other part of the day or while driving down the road. The passenger window works every time up or down. Passenger window does not operate from passenger side. The power locks always work, the windows seem mechanically sound when going up and down. Changed Masters switch, did not change anything. Thought I would ask before trying something else. Have never had an issue before with windows. Any information appreciated. Thanks
Reads like Master switch is bad, try wrecking yard for replacement
Power windows are pretty simple to understand
The power window motor is a 12v DC motor, DC motors use 12v and Ground, and you can control the direction the motor turns by reversing the 12v and ground
There are 2 wires connected to motor from a switch
BOTH wires are Grounds when switch is not in use
The switch controls the 12v
When you move the switch in one direction it disconnects the ground and connects the 12v to one of the motor wires, so motor turns clockwise, say window UP
When you move the switch in the other direction it disconnects ground on the other wire and connects it to 12v, so motor turns Counter clockwise, window DOWN
So pretty simple, 12v/ground or ground/12v, window up and window down
If a window only goes in one direction then its usually the switch thats at fault
On master switches, that can control other windows, it adds a layer of complications, but also easily understood
They all work the same, but the Master IS THE GROUND for all the other switches, thats how it can control the other windows
Remember that the motors 2 wires are grounded when switch is not in use, well those 2 Ground wires come from the Master
So the Master can send 12v to either of the other doors motor wires via the switch, so works exactly the same as drivers door
The other door has its own 12v wire, no grounds, so other door switch can control window motor the same way, sends 12v on one of the motor wires to its doors motor
This 12v wire comes from same power window fuse as Masters 12v, so if master works then unlikely to be the 12v wire, could be, just unlikely
And since Master switch is not operating its own motor correctly swapping it out may solve both issues
The Master switch may not be passing the 2 grounds to other door properly so that other door switch can't operate its motor
Power windows are pretty simple to understand
The power window motor is a 12v DC motor, DC motors use 12v and Ground, and you can control the direction the motor turns by reversing the 12v and ground
There are 2 wires connected to motor from a switch
BOTH wires are Grounds when switch is not in use
The switch controls the 12v
When you move the switch in one direction it disconnects the ground and connects the 12v to one of the motor wires, so motor turns clockwise, say window UP
When you move the switch in the other direction it disconnects ground on the other wire and connects it to 12v, so motor turns Counter clockwise, window DOWN
So pretty simple, 12v/ground or ground/12v, window up and window down
If a window only goes in one direction then its usually the switch thats at fault
On master switches, that can control other windows, it adds a layer of complications, but also easily understood
They all work the same, but the Master IS THE GROUND for all the other switches, thats how it can control the other windows
Remember that the motors 2 wires are grounded when switch is not in use, well those 2 Ground wires come from the Master
So the Master can send 12v to either of the other doors motor wires via the switch, so works exactly the same as drivers door
The other door has its own 12v wire, no grounds, so other door switch can control window motor the same way, sends 12v on one of the motor wires to its doors motor
This 12v wire comes from same power window fuse as Masters 12v, so if master works then unlikely to be the 12v wire, could be, just unlikely
And since Master switch is not operating its own motor correctly swapping it out may solve both issues
The Master switch may not be passing the 2 grounds to other door properly so that other door switch can't operate its motor
Thanks for the information. I did replace the Master switch with a new one. It did not seem to change anything. After reading your post I am thinking I may have a grounding issue at the master. That may be the reason passenger switch is not working correctly. I will have to try to trace grounds. Would they be grounded inside door or under dash? No fun anyway. Thanks again
Master will be grounded behind drivers side kick panel
Here is the 2002 wiring diagram, just focus on the switch wiring, the rest is just "fluff", it looks more complicated than it is.
Also test passenger side switch for 12v, just in case
Here is the 2002 wiring diagram, just focus on the switch wiring, the rest is just "fluff", it looks more complicated than it is.
Also test passenger side switch for 12v, just in case
I finally got back to my truck window yesterday. Going fishing after while, will have time to think. Printed wiring diagram, thanks for posting it. Passenger door switch has 12v setting on Lt Blu/black wire. Checked that using both grounds from master switch and also strait to truck chas. Every thing seems to check out. Started thinking that switch may have been bad, but I never noticed because I always open from master. Went to Master switch 12v on light blu/black when tested to outgoing grounds wht/yell and tan/lt blu. also 12v when tested light blu/black to black ground. I also read 12v when using wht/black to motor as ground. There is also a second smaller tan/lt blue wire which I think comes from relay. Seems to me it should be powered to take window up, but I am not sure of that. It was not powered. Hope this makes sense
The "one touch relay" is controlled by GEM module
The Master switch sends the GEM either 12v on the pin 4 tan/blue wire OR 12v on pin1 white/black wire, "Switch feed UP or DOWN"
There is a timer circuit, so GEM must get that 12v for a few seconds before it activates the relay, otherwise window should just go up or down just a bit
The GEM activates that relay and holds it in position to roll window all the way up or all the way down with "one touch"
You have 12v and Ground at both switches, as tested
You can test the motors using jumper wires from each, 12v and ground, directly to the motor, try 12v/ground to move motor one way then ground/12v to move it the other way, that takes a motor issue off the table in both doors
Its possible the one touch relay is the problem on drivers side, as there is no direct connection from tan/blue wire(pin 4) to Red wire on that motor(pin 2)
The one touch relay is in Relay Box 1, which is above gas pedal under dash
Diagram here: https://www.justanswer.com/uploads/c...2_92745396.gif
There is a cover over the "box"
Picture here of location and "box" with cover removed: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...d-p9230008.jpg
You can see clutch and brake pedal in foreground and the Blue Flasher relay at the top of "box"
You can by-pass the one touch system if it turns out to be a GEM issue
You would cut the tan/blue wire(pin 4) and cut the Red motor wire(pin 2) and splice them together, so direct connection, no GEM or relay in between
It won't hurt anything and you get window up and down function back, assuming switch or motor is not the problem
You can reconnect wiring to factory setup when needed
The Master switch sends the GEM either 12v on the pin 4 tan/blue wire OR 12v on pin1 white/black wire, "Switch feed UP or DOWN"
There is a timer circuit, so GEM must get that 12v for a few seconds before it activates the relay, otherwise window should just go up or down just a bit
The GEM activates that relay and holds it in position to roll window all the way up or all the way down with "one touch"
You have 12v and Ground at both switches, as tested
You can test the motors using jumper wires from each, 12v and ground, directly to the motor, try 12v/ground to move motor one way then ground/12v to move it the other way, that takes a motor issue off the table in both doors
Its possible the one touch relay is the problem on drivers side, as there is no direct connection from tan/blue wire(pin 4) to Red wire on that motor(pin 2)
The one touch relay is in Relay Box 1, which is above gas pedal under dash
Diagram here: https://www.justanswer.com/uploads/c...2_92745396.gif
There is a cover over the "box"
Picture here of location and "box" with cover removed: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...d-p9230008.jpg
You can see clutch and brake pedal in foreground and the Blue Flasher relay at the top of "box"
You can by-pass the one touch system if it turns out to be a GEM issue
You would cut the tan/blue wire(pin 4) and cut the Red motor wire(pin 2) and splice them together, so direct connection, no GEM or relay in between
It won't hurt anything and you get window up and down function back, assuming switch or motor is not the problem
You can reconnect wiring to factory setup when needed
Last edited by RonD; May 18, 2020 at 10:41 AM.
Thanks for all the help Ron. I have been fishing almost everyday this week. Need to do some work around the house. I think motor on pass side is good since I use numerous times a day from drivers control. Do I need to remove the door panel to test motor on drivers side? Wh/black is on switch, red is not. I do c relay box under dash. does not look to easy to get to. I think I heard chattering from it one time. May price one touch relay. Fishing occupies a lot of my time in spring, I will get back to this sometime
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S40racer
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Mar 19, 2010 08:46 PM



