I had autozone test my alt and it failed. I'm looking at the Jusnes Modified site on the 170 and 200 amp alts. Aside from the 4 gauge wire upgrade, what else will need to be done. Or for that matter, for simplicity and the fact that I only run 2 long range slim lights, should I just stick with stock?

And for that matter, I have a 92 or 94 4.0 exploder a friend left here after graduating college. Can I swipe the alt on there (I know it's functioning as I installed the thing for him)?

 

The Explorer's alternator is a 130A model, probably what your truck has from the factory since it is a Level II.

With any alternator over the stock, you will need to upgrade to 4 AWG wiring with a fuse inline to match the alternators output. Remember that even the high output alternators only put out about 1/4 of what they can make at idle....

 

You could run an overdrive pulley on the alternator if you need more amperage at idle.

 

The Ranger comes stock with two different size alts. I wanna say 130 is the lower one nad the other is 200 amp. When my original one crapped out I went with the 200 amp. Direct swap, no problems.

 

ok, slightly confused....

all the alts I've found have been 95A. Both Autozone and Checker were listing them for a '04 4.0 4x4. Guess I need to go look over the alt for part numbers.

 

I went to O'Reilly Auto Parts to get mine and they told me that there was two different sizes and my bad one was the smaller of the two sizes, the price difference wasn't that much so I went with the larger one.

 

bump....

which is it? The cskauto.com site for 2004 4.0L rangers lists 90A, 95A, 115A and 130A, and with prices ranging from $145 to $443!

 

called dealership and checked by VIN; stock alt is 115A.

The crappy part. The closest alt is ~1000 miles away. Local dealership wants $240 for reman'd (and they can't get it) and $436 for new...all + a 75 core.

Called a ford parts website I have (parts.com) bookmarked. New is $243.55 and reman is $159.24, both with a $75 core as well.

There goes ordering a new extension housing.

 

If you do this, make sure you fuse the wiring. I have a 250 amp fuse in my line to the alternator. Guidelines are to fuse it at 25% above rated capacity.

Your old alternator had fuse links in the power lead, whereas just running a 4 ga. to the battery does not provide the same protection.

 

That's what I'm trying to deside on now. Given the opportunity do I go for the higher rated alt (and how do I wire it for that matter) for if/when I ever get a winch. Right now I'm trying to locate an alt other that through the stealership. I requested wednesday off 3 weeks ago, but my friend that was suppose to come out can't now do to his re-scheduling at work. I'd HATE to waste 3 days off, even if 2 of which are just my regular days off.

 

ok...........deep breath.

picking up from calling stealership post.

I called pepboys just for giggles and grins. They carried the 130A alt. I snagged it. It's a Bosch (hope this thing doesn't live up to the expectations [lack thereof] of their spark plugs in our trucks. On way home I stopped at autozone and bought a new gatorback 4060868 serp. belt.

After installing the alt I went to load up the serpentine belt and try cranking her over. I couldn't get it [belt] to fit. Getting a sick feeling I called up to pepboys and confirmed the feeling; the pulley on my OEM alt measures at 2.25 inches diameter, the pulley on the replacement alt measures 2.5 to 2.628 inches. Back to autozone for a new belt. I went the next size up, the gatorback 4060872. While installing it I realized I was boneheading how I was snaking the belt through, fixed it and the longer belt fits, but I wounder if the older belt would still fit. I have my old belt so I may just try to pop it on.

So I get the new, longer belt on, slip the negative cable back onto the battery, tighten down, key into ignition, turn to on position, panic in my head while the PATS light is going nuts then stabilizes, throw the clutch and.........CLICK, CLIck, CLick, click, c l i c k, all the while the dash light go more and more dim. Well had a friend graduate college almost a year ago (I believe mentioned in OP) that left his explorer here. It's got a new alt and battery.....I drive it over and try to jump my truck. Getting good juice, but all she does is click click click when I attempt to crank.

Sooooooo, it's back up to AZ for a battery test. Battery reads: BAD BATTERY in that BEAUTIFUL lcd dotted font. They offered the duralast (somereason I just don't trust that brand) and red top optimas. I was tempted to snag the red top, but I remember reading lots of back and forth on here and other forums about it being good or not. So instead of sinking $169-204 into a battery I left. I ran over to SmEARS where my gf's cousin works as a manager at the auto dept to see what he's got. Picked up a diehard (not sure how good they are either but I was tired of the foo foo looks I was getting driving around in my gf's 95 neon), got home, played with my 8mm sockets, secured the battery, key into ignition, turn to 'ON' position, listen to EFI wine, throw clutch, VROOOM.....ahhhhhhh.

All this crap started at about 8:30 this morning. If it hadn't of cranked over I think I might have taken the battery and thrown it through my windshield, or started screaming psychotically, cursing out the electrical system or starter. either way, I kind of feel proud of myself for how calm I stayed about the situation. Years ago I woudn't have been so mature and level-headed about this.

Next project, work for 2 more paychecks so I can get balljoints, alignment, extension housing, and 02/03 interior carpet.

 

I had the sympton with the click, click, click and it turned out it was the battery as well. Luckily I figured it out as my mom was on the phone with the towing company to get my truck towed to the dealership.