Hey Folks,

I'm desperately trying to fix the power windows of my wifes truck. Both just stopped working from one day to another. No sounds no movement nothing.

What I tried so far:

• Fuses all check out.
• Relays under the hood check out.
• Switches work too.
• Motors are fine.
• I tested the cable coming from the car through the boot into the door and it is conducting.

What I figured out so far is that no power is reaching the switch on the drivers side so I was looking for the blue/black cable and tried to follow it but it's extremely hard to do. I ended up taking half the car apart to follow it.


I found another relay box under the steering wheel with 6 multi purpose relays. I think it's called the Accessory Relay Delay Box.


Does ANYONE have a wiring diagram for that box?


If you have any other suggestions I haven't tried I would be very thankful!


Aloha,
Christof

 

Welcome to the forum



Fuse 24 in cab fuse box runs Battery Saver relay which runs Power window relay(accessory relay), but you would have other issues if that fuse was blown

Power windows get power from Fuse 4 in engine fuse box, 20amp, it also powers door locks and powered seats if you have those options

This is a 2001 Ranger Relay Box diagram: https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/up...relays_one.gif

Should be the same as 1999 but not sure

Also found this for 1999 Explorer which are similar to Rangers in same years: https://www.justanswer.com/ford/2rvk...-replaced.html

The Light Blue/black strip wire is the 12volt wire that comes from the power window relay in Relay Box and splits to go to both doors and their switches, so if neither window works then either the Power Window fuse, relay, or light blue wire coming out of the relay is bad

1998 power window wiring in below PDF, which I know is the same for 1999

 

I SOLVED the problem!

First of all THANK YOU RonD! Your PDF helped a ton!

The problem was very simple in the end. It was the relay in the PASSENGER SIDE kick panel. There is only one lonely relay dangling behind the kick panel. It is the very first relay after the one coming from the engine compartment.

The PDF helped because I saw that I was missing ONE relay I haven't checked yet and I was determined to fix this problem.

Thanks again!

 

Good work

Accessory delay relay?

Thanks for posting the fix

 

Yes exactly, it was the Accessory Delay Relay which is right behind the passenger kick panel.

 

Thanks :)

 

I have a 2003 with the same issue. It been in my garage for three months while working the front end wreck, now done and trying to power up the windows and both do nothing.
All other electrical items seem to work.
Power locks work fine
No noise at all, all power switchs for windows are dead.
Where can I get a wiring dia. for this truck?
2003, XLT, 4X2, 3.0L
Also things done to date:
Fuse under hood, #12 20amp check good
????
Thanks

 

My best tip is to check the relay under the passenger side kick panel. It's stuffed up there a bit. As far as I know if that relay isn't working there is no power to either of the power window switches.

The wiring is super weird. It goes from the main relay in the engine compartment all the way to the passenger side relay and then to both switches. Whoever invented that should be punished...

Good luck

 

I would like to bring an issue i found to our attention related to my power window problem with my 1999 Ford Ranger. I spent some time trying to locate a schematic of the power window circuit. Once I found one i quickly discovered my issue. I should tell you that i had already replaced the driver side power window switch. My problem was that neither the drive side or passenger side windows would work, intermittently. Replacing the driver side power window switch appeared to fix the problem, however the problem came back. After reviewing the schematic it appeared to me the the chassis ground, (black wire on the driver side switch), could cause the problem. With the driver side power window switch removed from the arm rest and plugged into the wiring harness, i found that it was interments while putting pressure on the switch post. Removed the harness plug from the switch and quickly discovered the issue or problem. The ground post on the switch, (the one connected to the black wire), located at the bottom center of the switch has a tear drop copper plate connecting the post from the wiring harness to a smaller copper post running into the switch. I do not understand why the engineers do not understand that you have to have a gas tight seal between connections. It appears that they are relying on the contact pressure of the tear drop tab to the post into the switch. I sanded the tear drop tab and scraped the small post and solder them. This fixed the problem.
I would like to state or make it clear, based on my experience as an electrical engineer for some forty years that issue could and will be a problem with this design of switch. If you have the same issue that i had, both driver and passenger side power windows intermittent, it is most likely the switch. Note a new switch will not fix the problem. The switch is relying on pressure contact between a copper tab and copper post, this will not work in the long run, you must have a gas tight seal, such and a crimp connection.
Hope this helps others as i found it very difficult to find the location of the Battery saver and one touch relays. Also the Generic Electronic Module is very difficult to remove and check the harness connections. I did not check the connections for the Generic Electronic Module for this reason.

Cheers:-) Kevin