Explorer Dimmer Control
#1
#4
They get brighter with voltage. Up to their rated working voltage.
The ranger dimmer is capable but its tuned for a much heavier load than what the leds draw. If a load resistor was on the circuit im sure it would work just fine.
The ranger dimmer is capable but its tuned for a much heavier load than what the leds draw. If a load resistor was on the circuit im sure it would work just fine.
#5
I agree there, there is some variance in light output depending on voltage given. But if you start out with X voltage from the trucks power system...you can't add voltage, only reduce it. Sure you can use a variable resistor and reduce the voltage a bit, but it won't dim a whole lot. If you use a pulse width modulator, you are still only pulsing the LED to make it look dimmer, it is still turning on/off really fast. Go too slow and you'll get a strobing effect.
#8
#9
On Gen2 Explorers, red/black goes mostly to the incandescent bulbs, so I'd say that is the variable voltage leg. The light blue/red goes only to modules with displays which should make it the PWM output. Notice that this does not match the Ranger convention of light blue/red to the incandescents.
IIRC, the wheel has a click for "dome always on" in one direction and one for "dome always off" in the other.
IIRC, the wheel has a click for "dome always on" in one direction and one for "dome always off" in the other.
#11
Since you have the EATC, now could also be a good opportunity to split the LB/RD and the RD/BK that were tied together in John's how-to. I don't know that there is any difference in dimming performance but the EATC button bulbs "should" be on variable voltage and the display on the PWM output per Ford's original design.
#12
#14
Im going to attempt this Sunday. How to should be done mid week if all goes well and I can get good pics.
I will be hooking up my EATC to the voltage regulator per Bob's suggestion. Other than that its a simple connector swap. You just don't use 4 of the new wires. I have a feeling though ground will need to be connected.
I will be hooking up my EATC to the voltage regulator per Bob's suggestion. Other than that its a simple connector swap. You just don't use 4 of the new wires. I have a feeling though ground will need to be connected.
#15
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