Ranger not moving
Ranger not moving
So I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0L v6 5 speed and my step dad is helping me try to figure out what’s wrong with my truck but I’m sure someone else has had the same problem before, I replaced my slave and master cylinder as well as my clutch and I reinstalled the transmission the correct way. But no matter what I do I can not get the truck to go into gear and if it does it stalls out. If I try to start it in gear then it jumps forward or backwards in reverse. I can start it in neutral but won’t go into any gear or it stalls out. If the back end is lifted off the ground I can now start it in neutral and get it to go into any gear. Before I bled the clutch it would go into all gears but 4th and 5th but I’m still having the same issues with it not going into gear when the back end is down. Any help?
Last edited by EDaddy0606; Sep 8, 2018 at 02:23 PM. Reason: Not complete
Welcome to the forum
The shifter arm was put in the wrong way.
Before pulling out the shifter arm from a manual transmission you MUST put it in Neutral first
And when you put it back in transmission MUST still be in Neutral
Look here: Shifter Bushing Replacement : The Ranger Station
Last picture shows 2 of the THREE shifter slots, ALL 3 need to be in the center, lined up, for transmission to be in Neutral
Pull out the shifter, BLOCK a tire, truck can roll away when in Neutral.
Use a screw driver to shift the one slot back to the center, lined up with the other 2, you may need to rock the truck to get it "out of gear"
Transmission should now be in Neutral, try to roll the truck forward or backwards to make sure it IS in Neutral, it should roll both ways
Now reinstall the shifter arm
The shifter arm was put in the wrong way.
Before pulling out the shifter arm from a manual transmission you MUST put it in Neutral first
And when you put it back in transmission MUST still be in Neutral
Look here: Shifter Bushing Replacement : The Ranger Station
Last picture shows 2 of the THREE shifter slots, ALL 3 need to be in the center, lined up, for transmission to be in Neutral
Pull out the shifter, BLOCK a tire, truck can roll away when in Neutral.
Use a screw driver to shift the one slot back to the center, lined up with the other 2, you may need to rock the truck to get it "out of gear"
Transmission should now be in Neutral, try to roll the truck forward or backwards to make sure it IS in Neutral, it should roll both ways
Now reinstall the shifter arm
Welcome to the forum
The shifter arm was put in the wrong way.
Before pulling out the shifter arm from a manual transmission you MUST put it in Neutral first
And when you put it back in transmission MUST still be in Neutral
Look here: Shifter Bushing Replacement : The Ranger Station
Last picture shows 2 of the THREE shifter slots, ALL 3 need to be in the center, lined up, for transmission to be in Neutral
Pull out the shifter, BLOCK a tire, truck can roll away when in Neutral.
Use a screw driver to shift the one slot back to the center, lined up with the other 2, you may need to rock the truck to get it "out of gear"
Transmission should now be in Neutral, try to roll the truck forward or backwards to make sure it IS in Neutral, it should roll both ways
Now reinstall the shifter arm
The shifter arm was put in the wrong way.
Before pulling out the shifter arm from a manual transmission you MUST put it in Neutral first
And when you put it back in transmission MUST still be in Neutral
Look here: Shifter Bushing Replacement : The Ranger Station
Last picture shows 2 of the THREE shifter slots, ALL 3 need to be in the center, lined up, for transmission to be in Neutral
Pull out the shifter, BLOCK a tire, truck can roll away when in Neutral.
Use a screw driver to shift the one slot back to the center, lined up with the other 2, you may need to rock the truck to get it "out of gear"
Transmission should now be in Neutral, try to roll the truck forward or backwards to make sure it IS in Neutral, it should roll both ways
Now reinstall the shifter arm
Sounds like you still have air in the system _ they are hard to bleed.
See this video, the master has to be bench bleed first and then installed.
You could also use one of those Gunson air pressure bleeders if you could rig up an adapter to fit the threads on the reservoir.
The seal has to be very tight, or fluid will go everywhere.
See this video, the master has to be bench bleed first and then installed.
You could also use one of those Gunson air pressure bleeders if you could rig up an adapter to fit the threads on the reservoir.
The seal has to be very tight, or fluid will go everywhere.
3 bolts and one nut is all it takes to check
Because what you describe is classic case of misaligned shift forks, and it LOCKS the transmission so it can't turn, in any "gear"
Does truck roll forward and backwards in Neutral with engine off?
Easy test
If it rolls OK then I stand corrected and sorry I brought it up again
I KNOW the firing order, yet I get it wrong, and would swear it was right, bet money on it, and I would lose that money once in awhile, lol.
Because what you describe is classic case of misaligned shift forks, and it LOCKS the transmission so it can't turn, in any "gear"
Does truck roll forward and backwards in Neutral with engine off?
Easy test
If it rolls OK then I stand corrected and sorry I brought it up again
I KNOW the firing order, yet I get it wrong, and would swear it was right, bet money on it, and I would lose that money once in awhile, lol.
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