EATC Uh-Oh
#1
EATC Uh-Oh
Anyone on here that knows anything about EATC's please help. I have had mine installed for about 5-6 months and no problems. Now all of a sudden it will turn itself on and I go to turn it back off cause I don't need to run it and it will turn back on again. This is not always but is becoming more and more frequent. Also when I turn it on automatic now after 10-15 minutes the fan sign lights up on the display? What in the world is going on.
Please help.
Please help.
#2
Bad key pad or cable inside. Take it out, open it up and see if something looks "off".
This can occur due to mechanical damage, like something hitting the faceplate buttons hard, or something getting spilled or splashed into it.
If you clean your dash, NEVER spray cleaner onto the faceplate of any device in the dash. Spray the cloth so it's just damp and wipe.
You're not going to have much choice here -- probably you're going to need a new EATC unit.
This can occur due to mechanical damage, like something hitting the faceplate buttons hard, or something getting spilled or splashed into it.
If you clean your dash, NEVER spray cleaner onto the faceplate of any device in the dash. Spray the cloth so it's just damp and wipe.
You're not going to have much choice here -- probably you're going to need a new EATC unit.
#3
Sounds to me like the head unit is taking a crap. Try running the self test to see if it throws any codes.
Originally Posted by n3elz Car Domain How-To
Advanced self-test mode
The EATC has an advanced self-diagnostic test mode. A great description of it can be found here on the P71 interceptor site I mentioned previously. What he's posted is a direct "cut and paste" from the Ford service manual. I'll paraphrase here and add some additional codes you may see not mentioned in that document.
Basically, what you do is press and hold the OFF button on the head unit, then press FLOOR while still holding down OFF. Now quickly release both buttons and press the AUTOMATIC button.
At this point a little line will appear to rotate in the middle of the display. This indicates testing is in progress.
The test can take what seems to be a long while when you're waiting for it! Just let it run and don't worry.
At the end, the display will begin flashing numbers, or it will simply light up everything on the display and halt.
If only "888" appears for the number, and everything else on the display is lit up, then you have passed the advanced self-test! Congratulations! You can now proceed with the installation.
If there are numbers, write them down as they appear. Here's what they mean:
022, 024 - Blend door actuator shorted
025 - Blend door actuator not responding properly
030 - cabin temp sensor shorted (either wiring or bad sensor)
031 - cabin temp sensor not connected or failed (open circuit)
040, 042 - outside (ambient) sensor shorted (wiring or bad sensor)
041, 043 - outside (ambient) sensor not connected or failed (open circuit)
050, 052 - solar radiation sensor shorted
115, 125 - bad/no data from vehicle network (you'll get this always testing outside the vehicle)
There may be others depending on the year, particularly network ones -- but these are the main ones you have to deal with.
Whatever happens, press the DEFROST button to clear the codes, then activate self test again.
If you got numbers, they may be the same ones, or some may be missing. Sometimes the first self-test is misleading which is why we're doing it again.
Based on the numbers, troubleshoot your wiring and sensors.
If all you get are 1xx codes, and your fan controller worked in the first tests, then you are good to go! You can proceed to the next phase -- installation!
Press DEFROST to clear the codes, disconnect the power, and unhook all your temporary connections. If you had problems, get them fixed and try again!
The EATC has an advanced self-diagnostic test mode. A great description of it can be found here on the P71 interceptor site I mentioned previously. What he's posted is a direct "cut and paste" from the Ford service manual. I'll paraphrase here and add some additional codes you may see not mentioned in that document.
Basically, what you do is press and hold the OFF button on the head unit, then press FLOOR while still holding down OFF. Now quickly release both buttons and press the AUTOMATIC button.
At this point a little line will appear to rotate in the middle of the display. This indicates testing is in progress.
The test can take what seems to be a long while when you're waiting for it! Just let it run and don't worry.
At the end, the display will begin flashing numbers, or it will simply light up everything on the display and halt.
If only "888" appears for the number, and everything else on the display is lit up, then you have passed the advanced self-test! Congratulations! You can now proceed with the installation.
If there are numbers, write them down as they appear. Here's what they mean:
022, 024 - Blend door actuator shorted
025 - Blend door actuator not responding properly
030 - cabin temp sensor shorted (either wiring or bad sensor)
031 - cabin temp sensor not connected or failed (open circuit)
040, 042 - outside (ambient) sensor shorted (wiring or bad sensor)
041, 043 - outside (ambient) sensor not connected or failed (open circuit)
050, 052 - solar radiation sensor shorted
115, 125 - bad/no data from vehicle network (you'll get this always testing outside the vehicle)
There may be others depending on the year, particularly network ones -- but these are the main ones you have to deal with.
Whatever happens, press the DEFROST button to clear the codes, then activate self test again.
If you got numbers, they may be the same ones, or some may be missing. Sometimes the first self-test is misleading which is why we're doing it again.
Based on the numbers, troubleshoot your wiring and sensors.
If all you get are 1xx codes, and your fan controller worked in the first tests, then you are good to go! You can proceed to the next phase -- installation!
Press DEFROST to clear the codes, disconnect the power, and unhook all your temporary connections. If you had problems, get them fixed and try again!
#4
Bad key pad or cable inside. Take it out, open it up and see if something looks "off".
This can occur due to mechanical damage, like something hitting the faceplate buttons hard, or something getting spilled or splashed into it.
If you clean your dash, NEVER spray cleaner onto the faceplate of any device in the dash. Spray the cloth so it's just damp and wipe.
You're not going to have much choice here -- probably you're going to need a new EATC unit.
This can occur due to mechanical damage, like something hitting the faceplate buttons hard, or something getting spilled or splashed into it.
If you clean your dash, NEVER spray cleaner onto the faceplate of any device in the dash. Spray the cloth so it's just damp and wipe.
You're not going to have much choice here -- probably you're going to need a new EATC unit.
#5
#6
Funny I was able to run a self test this time. Huh. Anyway I ran it twice and got no codes. All images on the display lit up both times. Do you think it's possible that the automatic switch just needs cleaned. But then why would the fan image light up? I will still yank it this weekend and do an inspection. Hope I don't have to buy another control box. Also does anyone have some of that white hose and connectors I could buy. I didn't have enough to run it all the way down for it to suck air so it is just wired up with no airflow passing through the sensor. By the way John thanks for the write-up on the install I never would have been able to do this without your knowledge.
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