I recently bought a 2001 b2300 Mazda 2x4 manual.

It has a starting issue that has happened 2 times out of the 10 that I have started it. Sometimes the engine just cranks and cranks and never seems to fire. after a few tries of cycling the key on and off it starts and runs with no issues. I start it in neutral with the e brake on, and clutch in. I am wondering if there is any little trick for the 2.3 Duratec engine. Some other considerations I have are:

Truck has sub and amp behind seat. The sub powers up a few seconds after truck is started. No capacitor installed, but is the amp drawing too much power and not allowing spark to fire?

The battery light also flickers when the engine cranks over. I was also thinking that a ground could be lose and reducing the contact to the spark.

Another possibility would be that an injector could be sticking and dumping remaining fuel from rail into cylinder. Upon start up it may be reading too rich and pump having to prime system. I should smell the oil to see if gas smell exists there.

Anyone have any other ideas? I'll mess with it tomorrow. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Nice looking truck

Ford computers prime the fuel system for 2 seconds when key is turned on, fuel pump then stays off until engine RPMs are above 500, so no more fuel pump until engine starts.

The next time it doesn't start right up you should try, turning key off, then turning key on, count to 3, then turn key off, repeat 2 more times then try to start
This will prime the fuel system 3 times.

2001 has a check valve on the fuel pump in the tank, this check valve should hold the fuel pressure above 45psi when engine is off, if it is leaking then pressure drops and you get a no start until pressure builds up again, key off and on, as you described.
A leaky injector would also cause loss of pressure.

You can test for a leaking injector using the Clear Flooded engine mode.
Warmed up engine, let it sit for 10 minutes
Turn key on
Press gas pedal to the floor and hold it down all the way
Crank engine
It should NOT start, or even fire

Key on, engine off, gas pedal to the floor will shut off all the fuel injectors, that is Clear Flooded engine mode, but spark will still be on.

So if engine fires with this test then there is gas in the intake when there should be none.
If there is no firing then injectors are OK, as far as leaks.

As soon as you release the gas pedal injectors will turn on, even while cranking.

 

I drove the truck to get smogged today. The sub was kicking in and out. I put my papers in the glove box, shut the glove box door, and the sub came on at full power. Loose connection? I think the aftermarket sterio and sub is my problem.

 

This would be the first place I'd look then.

 

I pulled out the head unit and reconnected power wires, checked / cleaned all connections at amp and sub, and checked power cable, fuse, and battery terminal. I even cleaned the interior for good measure. Used the truck a few times, and no issues yet.

 

You may have identified and corrected the problem. Good job! Makes you feel a lot better too.

One thing I always do when it comes to electrical is toss any and all "butt" connectors, and use heat shrink tube and solder all electrical connections. Crimping butt connectors onto wires is not the best method for electrical connections, especially those that use high amp draw; butt connectors add resistance to the wiring, and can work loose, or allow moisture into the connection, adding additional resistance (and failure).