Repacked the front wheel bearings today - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 12-21-2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundPer4mance
john, how many times to i have to tell you..... blow torch + loctite = comes off like butta'
lol! I think they're still pretty tight, even then. I also tend to be conservative with heat where brakes are concerned. Probably overly cautious; but remember I'm not a real mechanic, nor am I qualified to play one on television...

I guess you'll have to tell me AT LEAST ONE MORE TIME, lol! :p
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  #27  
Old 12-21-2004
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What do you do if your front bearing aren't packable!!!! hehehe, when I read that i was, what you can't pack the front bearings, they are a sealed bearing, but than I saw the picture. 2wd have two bearings in the front, thrust bearings, while 4wd have one sealed bearing that is pressed in!!

Nice write up as always John!!!
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  #28  
Old 12-21-2004
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Ah, well I guess you guys have to worry less about water, then? Are they better sealed?

Thanks! :)
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  #29  
Old 12-22-2004
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I seem to remember reading somewhere that the front wheel bearings in the newer Rangers don't need periodical grease repacking. Am I wrong?
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  #30  
Old 12-25-2004
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They probably don't need it under normal circumstances. Mine have been in 20" and deeper water quite a bit. Plus they had gotten loose. Seemed a good idea to do them.

Like Adrian mentioned, on 4x4's it's a sealed bearing, which would fit more in line with what you're thinking. Although the 4x2 front spindle has seals, I don't thing they're all that impervious.
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  #31  
Old 12-27-2004
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john, dont think you have to worry too much about using heat around your brakes. how many hundreds of degrees do you think those rotors get when metallic pads bite into them at 80 mph
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  #32  
Old 12-27-2004
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No flame though! :p

At least not on my brakes? What about yours?...
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  #33  
Old 12-27-2004
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depends how fast im going and how hard i hit the brakes

see though thats the beauty of the flame on a blow torch, you can DIRECT the heat to where you want it. i always use a torch on stuff like that. although that could be because all the boy scouts did for me was make me a pyro. mu hu ha ha ha ha i have 4 MAPP torches with electric starts, wanna burn something
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  #34  
Old 12-27-2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz
Ah, well I guess you guys have to worry less about water, then? Are they better sealed?

Thanks! :)
I would ASSume it would seal better. The bearing itself is a ball bearing sealed bearing. So theres one seal. Than there is a seal when the cv axle goes into the bearings. I can't remember if there is a seal in the front, where the axle nut is????? Don't think so.
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  #35  
Old 02-17-2005
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"Tightening is a specific process. Put the nut on and tighten it to 21 ft/lbs while simultaneously rotating the drum COUNTERCLOCKWISE. Now back off the nut 1/2 turn, then tighten it to 17 ft/lbs while turning the drum CLOCKWISE. Replace the nut cover and cotter pin, and tap the dust cover back in place."

John- Are you sure you're supposed to torque the nut down to 17 ft/lbs after you back it off a 1/2 turn? My Haynes manual said something like 10-15 INCH/lbs...
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  #36  
Old 02-18-2005
 
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My service CD also says 17 lbs/In for the final tightening.
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  #37  
Old 02-18-2005
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Yes, my Ford manual says 17 -- but 15 or 17 is not so much difference. The point is not to OVERTIGHTEN it, I think. That's NO torque for a nut that size. It's just a force to retain everything to prevent movement on thrust (in and out movement).
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  #38  
Old 02-18-2005
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ha you had it easy try doing that on a 4x4 with manual hub conversion you have to take the hub off the conversion kit off the special locking nuts and such and then continue on where you started. good job though always a warm fuzzy feeling when you do a good job on your truck and you do it with your hands not with your wallet
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  #39  
Old 02-18-2005
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Thanks! And I agree with your sentiment about doing the work yourself.

I was just looking at the 4x4 job on the service CD because TBarCYa was about to do his -- special tools, lots of work, quite a procedure. You are ABSOLUTELY right that I had it easy!
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  #40  
Old 03-12-2005
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bearings pack

Sweet Job!!!

I recently had that done to my '97. I suggest next time if You're into OFFroad try Marine grade grease. Thats if You haven't used it already. Water repelant is the Best!
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  #41  
Old 03-12-2005
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I did use a water repellent, synthetic marine grease. I'm right there with you!
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  #42  
Old 03-14-2005
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ha ya, repacking the bearings on my truck is a *****. i have it down to 20 mins to disassemble everything now. hardest part is finding the retaning ring that holds the hub in place.
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  #43  
Old 03-14-2005
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Next time go to NAPA and buy the bearing packer, it is 2 plastic funnel looking pieces that you hook a grease gun to and it repacks them. No need for you to try to get out the old grease and then pack in new. Some of the best $3 I've spent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz
It's time consuming is all, like anything else. You paid mainly labor. I was trying to save that money, lol! I work on my truck because I'm cheap, not because it's fun! Some things are fun, but stuff like this is generally just a pain in the tookus. I think it took me about 3 hours to do the repack. I'm sure I'm slow but it would still take a bit of time in a service bay.

I'm definitely sore in the muscles. Between the two jobs I did today and the VERY tight bolts, I can feel it. You young men might not notice it if you do it, lol!
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  #44  
Old 03-14-2005
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Never heard of it! Sounds like a nice thing to have for that, thanks!
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  #45  
Old 03-14-2005
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john, we (me and my dad) picked this up @ sears for about $20 and it works EXCELLENT. its from Lisle...more info: http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=534

oh and my teachers @ school told us to use a torch to remove the loktite from the brake caliper bolts so its safe. heck even a propane torch will work.
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  #46  
Old 09-29-2005
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First off I know this is an OOOOOOLLLLLLDDDDDD thread but John I dont know how to thank you I could not figure out how to get the inner wheel bearings out of the old roters and it was driving me crazy! I just got some new Wagner ThermaQuiets (warrenteyed old ones for new ones) and some new Wagner roters and when I was going to grease it up I noticed they did not have the inner wheel bearings so I thought I would have to finish tommorow when I have to be at work at 10:30 a.m. (it was midnight when this hit me!)

Sorry for the long story I am just happy to be done! Thank You John

Roach
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  #47  
Old 09-29-2005
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lol! There's a lot of "post archaeology" going on lately, lol. You're welcome.
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