does anybody recommend a specific brand when replacing this? Seems like a fairly easy install (2 bolts and is easy to get to), although it seems like it could be harder to remove it. The link cracked in half, so in order to get it off I have to some how hold the rubber housing on to loosen the bolts.... besides that what and where do you guys think I should buy this?

 

OEM link is plastic with metal inserts (on my truck at least) - most aftermarket are just a metal link with rubber bushings - not too much to differentiate between what's available, not too hard to install, but you may have to torch the old piece out if you can't get the nut to unscrew

 

MOOG is the best OEM replacement suspension parts. You can get them from rockauto for cheap. Google it.

 

im gonna get moog ball joints when mine go bad...theyre a great product plus they still have grease fittings

 

Moog for sure! Great quality and lifetime warranty.

 

although im dreading the day i need ball joints...theyre kinda pricey IIRC

 

Wirelessly posted

Moog is the best we offer them to the fleet trucks that come in for ball joints every few months. That tells you something

 

They're not too bad! It's only because you have to buy the whole control arm. I need a right upper on my truck and I think I'm going to put a Dorman on to give it a shot. If it doesn't work out then Moog it is!

 

MOOG x2. I just snapped another one this weekend so I'll be ordering from rock auto as well.

 

yeah thanks guys, everybody rec. Moog on here for everything suspension. I would have ordered it from rock auto but i paid the extra 6.41 from advance auto because I had the truck up on ramps anyways because I was doing some undercoating and if it ever breaks I can just go right over to advance and they can give it to me on the spot instead of waiting over a week dealing w/ rock auto. It says w/ the instructions to tighten it untill the bushing starts to expand and then untighten 1/4 of a turn. well I did that but the slip cover was still loose on the bolt so I tightened untill it didn't move anymore which was only a few more turns anyways. anybody else have to do that?

 

yeah it was a ***** to get off. didn't have a torch so I put vice grips in the middle and turned the bottom nut with a socket and put a pipe on it and it broke the plastic, if was about to cut it off with a saw zall but wd40 allowed the plastic to slide off

 

Yep... sometimes you have to tighten it a little more. You don't want anything loose rattling around!

 

$210 for all 4 from rock auto with new UPCs.

I'm debating whether or not I want to do mine while I have the front suspension apart for spindle lift. Probably not though, my current balljoints have grease fittings so they've been replaced.

 

if yours are grease-able no point in doing MOOGS

 

damn thats not bad...a lot cheaper than i thought

 

I think the grease fittings are clogged, they don't fill. Plus I have no idea when they were done.