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Old 04-11-2016
CiegmannSody's Avatar
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Squeeling Brakes?

So after replacing my brake pads/rotors from this arsehole of a mechanic, my driver side brakes squeel ONLY when lightly applied, it seems to go away when I apply the brakes hard. I am assuming that they didn't properly lube the brake components when reassembling them. What do you guys think it could be?
Thanks for your help!
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Old 04-12-2016
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If it doesn't go away in a week take it back and have them find out why.

Quite a few reasons for brakes to squeal
Pad material
Rotor surface
loose pad
loose parts, although that is usually described as "chattering"
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Old 04-12-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
If it doesn't go away in a week take it back and have them find out why.

Quite a few reasons for brakes to squeal
Pad material
Rotor surface
loose pad
loose parts, although that is usually described as "chattering"
Thanks. It's been much longer than a week, and I've already taken my truck back to that mechanic a few times, so that's the last time I go to him, I'll bring it somewhere else.
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Old 04-13-2016
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It also pulls to the left (squeeling side) while braking. Not sure if that is the same problem... but both started after I got my brakes done.
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Old 04-14-2016
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That reads like caliper is sticking, could be pads are moving or the flex hose is damaged on that side.
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Old 04-14-2016
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Could also be the guide pins are seized. I'd start by taking both calipers apart, greasing up the guide pins (silicone), and making sure they move nicely afterwards. While you're there, inspect the pads and whatnot.
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Old 04-14-2016
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Originally Posted by TheArcticWolf1911 View Post
Could also be the guide pins are seized. I'd start by taking both calipers apart, greasing up the guide pins (silicone), and making sure they move nicely afterwards. While you're there, inspect the pads and whatnot.
Would this be an advanced job? I would love to do it myself but I'm a beginner when it comes to that stuff.
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Old 04-14-2016
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Brake jobs are as basic as you can get.
The caliper guide pins serve to keep the caliper evenly wearing the pads when applied, also holds the caliper in place, and serves as a return mechanism when you let off the pedal.
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Old 04-14-2016
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Originally Posted by TheArcticWolf1911 View Post
Brake jobs are as basic as you can get.
The caliper guide pins serve to keep the caliper evenly wearing the pads when applied, also holds the caliper in place, and serves as a return mechanism when you let off the pedal.
Lol okay, I will check it out! Thanks for your help :)!
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Old 04-14-2016
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Since you're a beginner, I feel I should mention a couple things that may both save your life and some money.

First and most importantly, support the vehicle securely. At least one jack stand, or don't even bother. I say this because the hydraulics in a jack, even when new, can fail, and that puppy will go down faster than you can say "oh sh**!". Granted, jackstands can break, too. I lift my vehicle with the jack, set it securely on the jackstand after the wheel is off, then place the cup of the jack on the frame of the vehicle. If the stand does fail, the jack will buy you time to get out of the way.
You may also find it nice to set one of the wheels underneath the truck as an extra safety measure. Of course, block your wheels up. Piece of wood, bricks, or actual wheel chalks. Any will do. I use paving stones, personally. Parking brake on, etc.

Also, I highly recommend dropping by harborfreight and picking up a torque wrench, half inch drive. 20 bucks and you know your lugnuts are how tight they need to be every time. You can just use a breaker bar to tighten them (I did for a while) but this adds a little peace of mind.

Another thing, less life-threatening. If for any reason you crack the bleeder valve open, there is a right and wrong way to do it. Do it the wrong way and you'll round it off; because for some reason they're as soft as clay. Some say use a box end wrench, some say use a line wrench. I like a six point socket to break 'em and snug 'em. I find a six point socket will grip the bleeder valve much better than a line wrench. Once it's moving freely, you can use a line wrench during the bleeding process, if the system is opened. If you leave the valve alone, don't worry about bleeding.
'Nother tip. If you do want to bleed your brakes of air, there's a tool you can make that will save you some mess and make it easier to read the fluid. A one man bleeder is what you want. All it is, is a plastic pop bottle with some clear tubing. You can find a good instructional video on how to make one by 'chrisfix' on youtube. Both he and EricTheCarGuy have some great videos, but I'd lean a bit more towards Chris in your case since he owns a Mazda, and most of his videos feature the B Series (ranger clone) if not his Ford Winstar. (Also, if you don't already know, for all intents and purposes, the B Series is a Ranger).

Stay safe, and good luck.
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Old 04-15-2016
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This is why I joined this forum... You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. Thank you very much for all of your help!
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Old 04-15-2016
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You're very welcome. Glad I could be of help. After all, no matter how simple the job is, the more knowledge you're equipped with, the easier it'll go. Or, at least, you'll know how to get yourself out of a jam
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