Stupid door dinger......snip a wire??? - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 12-14-2005
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hey guys,
I did this mod a couple days ago, had been wanting to do it a long time tho...
anyways, I did it as instructed, and now my dome light doesn't turn on when I open the driver's door. When I use the passenger door, it works just fine. Is this normal for this to happen after doing this mod? Or did I mess something up?
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  #27  
Old 12-14-2005
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Post a pic of your mod and I'll tell you.

Chances are you splice the two wires together coming OUT of the GEM, instead of going in, OR -- your tap splice or connection isn't good, OR -- you used the wrong wire.

If you can photograph it, it might make it easier to diagnose.

Does the door ding with the keys in it now when you open the PASSENGER door, by any chance?
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  #28  
Old 12-14-2005
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well I don't have a digi cam at the moment, but I do know that I snipped the yellow/black wire, used a scotch-lok to splice it to the gray/red wire. I spliced the end that was heading to the GEM, not the 2 inch piece hanging out of it. The door dinger still dings when the key is in and door open.
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  #29  
Old 12-14-2005
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That makes no sense, so I'm confused. There is only one signal from the door, and yet it is triggering the key-minder, yet not turning on the dome light. Let me look in the manual and see what it says about the wiring.

Or did you mean only when the passengers door is open? Please clarify, thanks.
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  #30  
Old 12-14-2005
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Further question: are the two wires you used right next to each other in the connector?
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  #31  
Old 12-14-2005
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My headlights don't ding ether..
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  #32  
Old 12-14-2005
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sorry...to clarify, I thought last night I had heard it ding when the passenger door was opended, but I was mistaken. It doesn't make noise when either door is open, but the light still comes on when passenger door opens. The wires that I cut were right next to each other, so I am pretty confident that I have the right ones. Is it possible that the connection just isn't very good?
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  #33  
Old 12-14-2005
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That sounds like the problem, Dan. Okay, I'm less confused now, thanks!

I would review that. They are small wires. If you used a tap splice, and you used a blue one and not a red one -- that can do it. I've taken to buying both whereas at one time I used all blue and started have problems after assembly. For smaller diameter wires the red ones are required.
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  #34  
Old 12-14-2005
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Are the blue ones for 12-14 ga wire??? Red for 16-22 ga??
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  #35  
Old 12-14-2005
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Aren't the blue ones for 12-14 ga wire??? Red for 16-22 ga?? I used red for this mod and my third brake turnsignals.
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  #36  
Old 12-14-2005
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You didn't have to ask twice, lol. I heard you the first time...

Yes, that's it exactly. But you can get away with using the wrong one when crimping -- to some extent -- but with insulation piecing it's possible to end up with NO connection or an intermittent one if you use too big a tap, or cut the wire altogether with too small a one.

I was just lazy in the past and used the blue ones because I had them. In some cases it either didn't work, or I had to redo it later. However, where I used the right size, I've had no problems even years later.
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  #37  
Old 12-14-2005
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Ok cool, thanks alot John. I had used blue ones, mostly because I saw them in the pics (not your fault, I should have checked the size first!). But anyways, I work at Ace Hardware so I will pick up a red one tomorrow and redo the connection. Thanks for the help!
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  #38  
Old 10-01-2006
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Ha ha! Thanks. Bob rocks, and I rock only slighly less...

(Ooops...linked to this from somewhere else and thought it was current -- DOH!)
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  #39  
Old 10-02-2006
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Did that mod way back when........I love it.

Left my parking lights and fogs on plenty of times.....as it also kills the warning buzzer for the "lights still on after taking the keys out". But meh, that's why the battery run down protection system is there.....to cover your butt...LOL

Excellent mod for sure!!!
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  #40  
Old 01-13-2007
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Thanks
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  #41  
Old 04-01-2007
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That all seems a little complicated...

On my 2000, I unplugged the plug at the seat (by the center console in the rear, under the seat).

That was the first thing I did when I bought the truck.
Just a tad quicker.

I don't mind the headlight dinger as I sometimes drive w/ lights on in the daytime.
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  #42  
Old 04-02-2007
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Oops, dipsh!t!!!
That was my seat belt warning dinger.
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  #43  
Old 04-02-2007
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Seems like you guys are going to a lot of trouble for nothing. I just pull the #26 fuse in the passenger compartment fuse panel.
The panel located in the end of the dash on the drivers side. There's no chance I'll forget to replace it when I'm done.
It also knocks out the speedometer. So if I forget and start to drive the speedometer doesn't work and I know I have to replace it.
It only takes a few seconds to do.
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  #44  
Old 06-16-2010
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I squeezed a shot of silicone sealer in the piezo speaker to quiet the darn 90%. I can live with it and when the radio is on you can't hear it.
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  #45  
Old 08-23-2010
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I just saw this and said oh my, why should anyone cut their wires, this mod can be done without cutting your wired, PERIOD! ....... I did it, This is what you do, Take both the grey plastic panel and metal panel off below the steering coloumn, Than crawl under dash and look up, if you are on your back looking up under your dash you will see a grey clip thats insert into another gray clip, male/female plug, this is the door chime, take apart the two pugs and WALLA, no more chime. and no freaking cutting of the wires.
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  #46  
Old 09-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2001fordranger View Post
I just saw this and said oh my, why should anyone cut their wires, this mod can be done without cutting your wired, PERIOD! ....... I did it, This is what you do, Take both the grey plastic panel and metal panel off below the steering coloumn, Than crawl under dash and look up, if you are on your back looking up under your dash you will see a grey clip thats insert into another gray clip, male/female plug, this is the door chime, take apart the two pugs and WALLA, no more chime. and no freaking cutting of the wires.
anyone second this?
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  #47  
Old 09-06-2010
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if ya dont believe me, than go under the dash while your keys are in the ignition, you will not only hear the chime, but it makes a clicking sound which comes from that clip, yours may be a white clip.
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  #48  
Old 09-07-2010
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On older vehicles thats what it is - usually just a plug you can remove under there. Although, on newer trucks - wouldnt that cause some sort of CEL perhaps?
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  #49  
Old 09-07-2010
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I am a electrical engineer by trade, although retired, this is not the case, the door bell chime is independent of its own, and has its own relay/switch, I have disconnected mine for almost 6-months and never had a problem or CEL light occur, Lets think for a moment, why cut the wires, that in itself is not always a logical decision, most newer cars have a relay and or switch or both, I found this by having my dash out and noticing that i had one more switch to hook up once i put my dash in, soon as i made the connection, my doorbell chime went on, I removed in and it went off. I will get a picture of the switch and you can see for yourself.
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  #50  
Old 04-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2001fordranger View Post
I am a electrical engineer by trade, although retired, this is not the case, the door bell chime is independent of its own, and has its own relay/switch, I have disconnected mine for almost 6-months and never had a problem or CEL light occur, Lets think for a moment, why cut the wires, that in itself is not always a logical decision, most newer cars have a relay and or switch or both, I found this by having my dash out and noticing that i had one more switch to hook up once i put my dash in, soon as i made the connection, my doorbell chime went on, I removed in and it went off. I will get a picture of the switch and you can see for yourself.
Have you ever gotten that pic?

I'm under my dash trying to find it
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