Working on the Door Lock LED Mod - Initial Progress Pics
#1
Working on the Door Lock LED Mod - Pics w/UPDATE
This is my attempt at soldering the circuit board for the mod. There are four magnetic relays on the board, two for the driver's door and two for the passenger side. The markings are just for my help in soldering connections. The longer wires actually are all tied to connectors for removal of the board if maintenance is needed (or if it doesn't work!).
UPDATE: Added a project box. I had to trim up the circuit board a bit, but I was able to get everything in the box and I've run the wires through a rubber grommet to prevent fraying.
Last edited by pastfinder; 04-19-2006 at 06:51 PM.
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The LED's won't be a big problem, I don't think.
I'll give you a tip on using those perf boards: they are coated with a thin layer of lacquer to keep the copper unoxidized until you use them.
Now, you CAN just melt/burn it off when you're soldering. However, that requires you to keep the heat on a bit longer than is healthy for the adhesive that holds the copper pads to the board.
So: the general idea is to take "scotch-brite" pads or other mild abrasive (brass wire brush, very fine sandpaper, etc.) to remove the lacquer prior to working the board. You'll find the pads solder much quicker that way.
Overall, your soldering looks like it "wetted" the pads and wires well, and I don't see any obvious problems. Pays to watch carefully for accidental "bridging" on close runs. Commercial PCB's have solder masking coatings that help prevent bridging (essential for "wave soldering"), but perfboards usually are not so coated.
I'll give you a tip on using those perf boards: they are coated with a thin layer of lacquer to keep the copper unoxidized until you use them.
Now, you CAN just melt/burn it off when you're soldering. However, that requires you to keep the heat on a bit longer than is healthy for the adhesive that holds the copper pads to the board.
So: the general idea is to take "scotch-brite" pads or other mild abrasive (brass wire brush, very fine sandpaper, etc.) to remove the lacquer prior to working the board. You'll find the pads solder much quicker that way.
Overall, your soldering looks like it "wetted" the pads and wires well, and I don't see any obvious problems. Pays to watch carefully for accidental "bridging" on close runs. Commercial PCB's have solder masking coatings that help prevent bridging (essential for "wave soldering"), but perfboards usually are not so coated.
#6
I made darn sure there was no "unauthorized" bridging on the boards. I used a razor blade and this tool resembling an angled flat head screwdriver to cut a few and adjust the solder to prevent bridging. I'm learning how to do this, but I found I'm pretty terrible at it for the time being!
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#11
Originally Posted by barrman
is there a how-to for this mod floating around somewhere?
are there different color combination leds, or just green/red?
are there different color combination leds, or just green/red?
#12
Frank is going to write a "comprehensive" how-to. I've posted some on it, and so has Bob. I did it initially, but then Bob really improved it. Now Frank has offered to make a nice how-to for it.
Here's some topics on it:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=4386
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=11781
I think I originally posted on it at the late, lamented Gen-Edge.
Here's some topics on it:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=4386
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=11781
I think I originally posted on it at the late, lamented Gen-Edge.
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If anyone wants info on the relays, here you are: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...PC_MOUNT_.html
#19
Originally Posted by n3elz
Frank is going to write a "comprehensive" how-to. I've posted some on it, and so has Bob. I did it initially, but then Bob really improved it. Now Frank has offered to make a nice how-to for it.
Here's some topics on it:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=4386
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=11781
I think I originally posted on it at the late, lamented Gen-Edge.
Here's some topics on it:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=4386
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=11781
I think I originally posted on it at the late, lamented Gen-Edge.
Oh thats very cool.
#20
Originally Posted by 04lvl2
Looks very cool, hurry up on the how to lol. I wanna do this.
#21
Originally Posted by pastfinder
Realize that to install this involves removing the door panels, the boots by the doors, the instrument cluster, the center bezel, the passenger airbag and the glove box. Gimme a few more weeks folks! Just kidding, but just thinking about the wiring access, it involves a lot of panel removal. That being said, I'm planning several other mods to coincide. Might as well if I have all the panels off the truck's dash and doors!
#22
I have the schematic Bob sent and I can send you links for the parts. Some of them are from All Electronics, some are from Radio Shack. This was my first attemt at soldering, to which I discovered that I did it all wrong, so I might find myself building another of these! Fortunately, parts aren't that expensive, the relays and the board costing the most.
#23
Here's the schematic and start of a write-up with parts. Please realize that I don't know if my really half-arsed soldered circuit board works. I intend to hook things up to test in a few weeks.
Anyways, here are some of the basics: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2231002/6
Anyways, here are some of the basics: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2231002/6