I have owned three Rangers w/ frt disc brakes, a '99, an '01, and now driving a 2011. Brake Rotors always seem to get warped (pulsation thru pedal) after about 20-30,000 miles, or basically about halfway through the pad life.

Can anyone recomend rotors that don't warp? I inquired at the dealer about OEM rotors at one point and they were like 3X the cost of aftermarket replacement.

Back in the day you could run a set of pads or two on a rotor, get them turned down, and run them some more. Not these days though.

So nowadays do I just figure w/ all the aftermarket mfgrs using chinese (cheap low quality) suppliers that I just just figure to replace rotors at 2X the rate of pads? Or bite the bullet and buy the OEM rotors from the dealer and stop whining.

 

I always use Bendix rotors on all my vehicles and never have any issues. For what its worth the OEM rotors on my 09' were junk and full of casting flaws.

 

Thanks for the recommendation. An others?

Part No's & vendor names would be helpful if you have experienxce w/ rotors that DON'T warp.

Thanks!

 

Change calipers as well, calipers may not be releasing all the way, or Master Cylinder issue.
Jack up front wheels, spin both, should barely rub on pads
Start engine
Pump brakes several times, then release, leave engine running
Spin wheels again, should still just barely rub, if they are harder to spin then something is not right, if its both front wheels then Master would be my guess, although power booster with air leak on cab valve would also apply pressure when ever engine was running.

Rotors warp for only one reason, HEAT

If you have an automatic and do a bit of uphill/downhill driving or you pull a trailer then your rotors will get too hot on the downhill side if you don't also use the engine as a brake, down shift the transmission, and don't use the brakes.
And when you do use the brakes going downhill slow down BELOW the speed you want then release the brakes and allow them to cool down as you accelerate back up to speed, don't run with foot on the brake pedal for more than a few seconds, no more than 10 seconds.

If you ride the brakes then heat can not dissipate and any rotor you use will warp, laws of physics, so slow down more than needed then release brakes so they can cool off

If you do off-roading then make sure mud gets removed from rotor vents

Make sure idle is not too high, on flat ground with engine fully warmed up, put trans in Drive and let it idle forward, 5MPH is max I would like to see, under 8MPH for sure.
If idle is too high all you are doing is emptying your gas tank(and wallet) to over heat rotors and wear down pads, so triple "whammy"


Power brakes work on air pressure
A running engine applies 18" if vacuum pressure to one side of the booster
The other side has a valve that is pushed open by brake pedal rod, it is call the atmosphere valve.
When you apply the brakes the atmosphere valve opens and 15psi of air pressure(sea level) rushes in and assist you in pushing down on the pedal
When you release the pedal atmosphere valve closes and vacuum returns
If atmosphere valve had a small leak then it would be the same as you driving around with your foot lightly on the brake pedal, so brakes would never cool down, and rotor would run HOT all the time

 

Know it might be a bit late but I always use Centric premium blanks. Not sure what part numbers would be for your truck. I've had them on my 03 Grand Prix since fall of 2014 and never had any issues with warping and I'm not easy on the brakes with that car. I did quite a bit of research before buying them. I also use Wagner ThermoQuiet ceramic pads. Installed the same setup on my 03 Ranger this fall.

 

Raybestos, Bendix, or OEM. Do not get the slotted, dimpled, or notched. Solid blanks will work best. The rest are gimmicks.

 

make sure that you do not use semi metallic brake pads on brake rotors that are meant for CERAMIC brake pads