Won't sustain idle! - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 08-31-2015
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Won't sustain idle!

Yesterday I changed my oil and the small PCV hose that connects to the side of the intake boot (2L5E-6853-AB). Everything was fine for short errands I ran earlier and then all of the sudden I feel the RPMs suddenly drop while driving. I throw it into neutral and attempt to rev it up to keep the engine from shutting off. I am hearing a low gurgling sound the whole time. I manage to get home and open the hood to find the new PCV hose I just installed disconnected from the rubber elbow. I plug it back in hoping everything is fine. I would idle really low and rough.

These are the codes I'm receiving:

P0102, P2195, P2197, P0171, P0174, P0300, P0316. I'm no mechanic but based on what I changed today and the codes that are popping up, I have some sort of vacuum problem.

Now my truck won't sustain idle. It will rev when I turn the key and drop down to zero.

This morning changed the large PCV elbow that is known to give P0171 and P0174 codes. It had a big gash in it.

I noticed that this sensor wire has been ripped up, and I am wondering if this is the problem. I'm not sure what it is called.





Anyone have an idea what's going on?
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Old 08-31-2015
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That looks like the Knock Sensor connector, yes you need that working.

No that is not the cause of your stalling.
revisit the PCV valve hose, make sure it is not leaking any where, it doesn't look stock, looks like someone has replaced the hard plastic hose with rubber hose all the way, that is fine but it can split and leak like the rubber elbow did
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Old 08-31-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
That looks like the Knock Sensor connector, yes you need that working.

No that is not the cause of your stalling.
revisit the PCV valve hose, make sure it is not leaking any where, it doesn't look stock, looks like someone has replaced the hard plastic hose with rubber hose all the way, that is fine but it can split and leak like the rubber elbow did
You were obviously right. I found a spare clamp and used to to tighten down the small Pcv hose to the air intake boot. The great engineers from west virginia that previous owned my truck had electrical tape wrapped around that junction, I now understand why. It now runs fine and idles around the low 700s.

In regards to the knock sensor connector, should I just buy a new knocks assembly or just the wiring connection? They are almost the same price on rock auto.
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Old 08-31-2015
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The knock sensor allows this 9.7:1 compression engine to run regular gas(87 octane) without pinging/knocking
Without it connected the engine will seem sluggish because spark timing will not be as aggressive.....to avoid pinging.

You have to pull off the intake to get to the knock sensor and you should change the thermostat housing at the same time, it cracks and leaks.

So until you get a chance to do that work I would hit a wrecking yard and get a connector with a little more wire on it and splice the wires.
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