so I have replaced the alternator a few times now along with fuses and battery and the whole nine. Then I found out there was an issue in the wiring so I again replaced the alternator this time along with the wiring, the alternator is supposed to have a built in regulator, well I got 6 gauge wiring for it because I was straight wiring however this wiring caught fire and shorted the alternator. The 130 is the alternator that was factory on my 2000 ford ranger xlt 4.0 so I have purchased a dual battery wiring kit for the wiring and fuses that came with it much cheaper purchase this way. My question is it comes with a regulator that if using dual batteries I would run a separate hot wire along with both batteries connecting to it as well as 80 amp fuses and separate grounds for each battery and the regulator, so if I am only doing a single battery but wish to use the regulator for added safety what would be my Best method for doing so? Or should I just wire it according to diagram minus hook ups for the second battery?

 

Welcome to the forum

2000 Charging system wiring below, that's what you use, period

If you want to add a 2nd battery then you use an isolator between the two battery positives, so both batteries charge when engine is on but only one battery will drain when engine is off, the 2nd battery, assuming that's what you hook up the add electrics to

The 175 amp mega fuse protects BOTH batteries and alternator


Testing a charging system is easy, just 3 wires to test
Test battery voltage first, say its 12.5volts, that's "battery voltage"
Key OFF
Ground volt meter to alternators metal case for tests
Battery's ground cable needs to carry the same 130amps as the Positive cable so do NOT overlook that cable, needs to be clean and tight, at BOTH ends
B+, in the diagram the larger black/orange wire to the Mega Fuse, this is the OUTPUT to Battery, test B+ terminal, should show battery voltage

Unplug 3 wire connector on alternators Voltage Regulator
Test Yellow wire, should show battery voltage if not then 30amp fuse is blown
Test Green wire, should show 0 volts

Turn on key, re-test green wire, should show battery volts, can 0.1v less, this is the Battery light wire, on/off switch for alternator
If still 0 volts then fuse 15 in cab fuse box is blown

If all 3 tests pass as OK, then Trucks wiring is OK
Hook 3 wire connector back up and start engine
Test battery voltage
Should now be 14.0-14.8volts
Let it idle for 5-10min and re-test battery voltage, should drop to 13.5v to 13.9volt, under 14v
Turn on blower fan to high and headlights on
Re-test battery volts, should be same, no drop, voltage regulator is working and all 3 fields in alternator are working
If voltage drops below 13.5v then you have 1 bad field in alternator