Color Matched Keypad Entry System

Below are pictures of the Keypad Entry System. Both were installed successfully on Rangers.



This mod uses a keyless entry module from an early 90's vintage Taurus, Sable, Lincoln, etc. Basically, these modules have the ability to have the factory code changed by the user. Click here for an article explaining how to change the keyless entry code.

In order to do this, the box needs to be modified, or, external relays need to be added. The goal here was to integrate this box with the existing GEM and Central Security Modules in the Ranger, and not to replace them. This was accomplished by removing the relays and modifying the circuit boards. (A How-To on this may be in the future.) The result is that the box can be mounted inside the drives door and connects with only 5 wires to the existing system (provided you have power locks already), and if you have power mirrors as well, ALL the wiring goes inside the door. If you DON'T have the power mirrors, then an "always" hot feed needs to be run inside the door.

Installation

One of the first things that has to be done is Cut a hole for the keypad in your door. A Dremel tool was used here, along with one of their "heavy duty cutting wheels" which are thicker, and more durable than the standard wheels. Basically, these wheels are a composite of fiberglass mesh and cutting grits.


The reason for masking so MUCH of the truck is that the cutting throws off hot sparks which would melt into and pit the clearcoat paint. So this is recommended masking for cutting. Most of te sparks will fly to the left, but, overkill is still recommended!


Above is a picture of what the opening will look like once you have filed it. The filing will serve two purposes: 1. it smoothes the edges, and 2. it's how yo make the slightly wider opening requirered to the left.

Below is a picture taken while splicing the keypad in. Normally, the module is far away from the keypad with 8 wires that have to go through the door to the body of the truck. But by mounting it in the door, we end up with just a short run and it's MUCH easier. To the right the result after the keypad connector has been spliced into the module. The module is mounted vertically behind the lower left portion of the door in this shot. Yes, it clears the window when it's rolled down!



Finally, the picture below shows the place where the 5 wires tap into the door's harness using simple tap connectors. No cutting requirered. There are 5 connections shown together, and though you can see another one down and to the left, it is not a part of this mod. It is a part of a different mod! Ignore it in this picture!




John's Technical Considerations

This mod requires that you have power locks, obviously. It can work with aftermarket systems and I can modify a box to suit any interconnect. It can only work with an alarm system if the alarm can accept an input signal to turn off the alarm.

Since originally the box directly drove the lock actuators, that's why it has to be modified. However, I found that I can play some tricks also. My unit now has a 7 digit entry code instead of the standard 5. I can also set it up for 6.

The Ranger has a security module with a nice feature that can make this mod difficult. If you lock the doors with your keyless remote (keyfob remote), a couple of minutes later the door unlock buttons in the cab are disabled. This is nice if you like to leave your windows cracked on a hot day -- no one can put a coathanger through and hit your unlock button and get in.

However, this causes fits for the kind of interfacing I'm doing here. If you were to lock your door with the fob, and somehow need to get back in with the keypad -- you couldn't! Not good.

The solution is to "wake" the system up and make it think it should pay attention to the button again. The ONLY way to do this is to either turn the key OR to open the door.

I originally wired this up so that as soon as you hit a keypad button, both the keypad lit up, and the dome light went on. This wakes up the security module. However, the problem is that now any jerk can look around in your truck at night just by touching the keypad. In addition, the unlock buttons are now functional making it easier to break in.

Soooo...I set it up this way instead. The keypad light still comes on as soon as you press a key. But for seven digit combinations, the dome light stays off until you hit the 6th digit correctly. On the seventh the door opens. For 6 digit combinations, the light comes on at 5 and opens at 6. Although this gives a "clue" and makes the last digit less effective, it does mean they need at least 5 or 6 digits just to get a look inside and arm the unlock buttons. I like it better.

Wiring and Box Modification Notes

First, here's the connector pinout with wire color and functional description as used in the STOCK configuration, before modification.

Connector 1 - control and power (stock)

1 - RED/ORG Drivers door unlock drive (12 volt pulse)
2 - LT GRN/YEL Constant 12 volt power
3 - PNK/ORG Other doors unlock drive (12 volt pulse)
4 - PNK/ORG Other doors unlock drive (same as above)
5 - BLK Ground
6 - BLK Ground
7 - VIO/YEL Trunk open solenoid drive (12 volt pulse)
8 - PNK/BLK All doors lock drive (12 volt pulse)
9 - PNK/BLK All doors lock drive (same as above)
10 - PNK/YEL Door lock input (ground input to trigger)
11 - PNK/LT GRN Door unlock input (ground input to trigger)
12 - BLK/LT BLU Courtesy lamp drive (12 volts out when lamps on)
13 - BLK/WHT - Relay power input (constant 12 volts)
14 - BLK/WHT - (same as pin 13)

Connector 2 - keypad (stock)

1 - LT BLU Keypad lamp
2 - BLK Ground
3 - LT BLU/YEL 1/2 switch input (all keypad inputs ground trigger)
4 - LT GRN/RED 3/4 switch input
5 - YEL/BLK 5/6 switch input
6 - YEL 7/8 switch input
7 - RED 9/0 switch input
8 - VIO/ORG Ignition power (12 volts when key on)
9 - WHT Seat switch input (drivers seat)
10 - BLK/PNK Back up light input
11 - WHT/LT BLU Door handle switches
12 - BRN Common for keypad (effectively ground)
13 - LT GRN/YEL Constant 12 volt power
14 - BLK/ORG - Door ajar switch input

AFTER box modification, here's what you need (I removed all unused wires)

Connector 1 - control and power (modified)

1 - Unused
2 - LT GRN/YEL Constant 12 volt power
3 - PNK/ORG All doors unlock (ground pulse, open circuit when off)
4 - Unused
5 - BLK Ground
6 - Unused
7 - VIO/YEL Dome light control (ground when on)
8 - PNK/BLK All doors lock (ground pulse, open circuit when off)
9 - Unused
10 - Unused
11 - Unused
12 - Unused
13 - BLK/WHT - Relay power (constant 12 volts, join with pin 2)
14 - Unused

Connector 2 - keypad (modified)

1 - LT BLU Keypad lamp
2 - BLK Ground
3 - LT BLU/YEL 1/2 switch input (all keypad inputs ground trigger)
4 - LT GRN/RED 3/4 switch input
5 - YEL/BLK 5/6 switch input
6 - YEL 7/8 switch input
7 - RED 9/0 switch input
8 - Unused
9 - Unused
10 - Unused
11 - Unused
12 - BRN Common for keypad (effectively ground)
13 - LT GRN/YEL Constant 12 volt power (connect to pin 2, conn 1)
14 - Unused

This should give you some "hints" as to how I modified the box, if your inclined to do it yourself. All these wiring pin outs are for the older boxes with two connectors. The newer ones have 3 connectors and the color code is the same, though they have other functions and obviously the connectors are different.

 

That's a pretty cool idea. Does it work on manual locks too or just power locks?

 

MrRngr94, in john's write up it said it would only work with power locks :(

 

First, my lock rods have been removed. So Dave's comment about how easy it is to get in does NOT apply to my truck, or Carl's, or Adam's when he sold it. If you have electric locks, you're better off without the manual lock rods -- too vulnerable.

Second, the 7 digit code makes the odds of getting in much higher. The 5 digit factory code, combined with the "base 5" system, made the chances of getting in with random codes better than I liked.

Third: thanks for posting this but it is NOT a how-to! You have to modify the box to be open circuit outputs which go to ground on activation. There are two ways to do this: cut and rejumper the circuit board (requires removing and then resoldering the relays); or remove the relays completely and jumper the relay driver chip to the output pins with diodes. I originally did it the first way, but now I get rid of the relays completely and reliability has been better.

The problem is that I mount the control box in the door and it's a "wet" environment and the open frame type relays on some units don't hold up well. The diode method has no contacts and works much better.

Also, dielectric/anti-corrosion compound on the box connectors is ESSENTIAL.

Later, I will be posting a how-to on modding the boxes themselves. Then you can all make your own. I made a couple of bucks selling them but it's become too much trouble and right now Bob (rwenzinger) is having problems with one I did and I need to get back to helping him troubleshoot it.

Still, once you have it working right, it's very nice. The BIGGEST problem is using salvaged equipment in a moist environment. If you address that, it's great. Mine has been very reliable since I put the latest changes into it.

Not sure when I'll get around to writing the how-to, but I'll get it.

And this mod is great for warming up your truck on a cold winter day. You can lock it and get back in again. I use it for that big time in the winter. But it's good anytime you have to hop out where you want to leave the truck running. You don't realize how useful it is until you have one. It's still one of my favorite mods.

I actually sold one to a guy in Argentina who wanted one. According to him, even the Explorers down there don't have them so his Ranger is TOTALLY unique there.

 

Here's mine:

 

As a reminder, this does not work with some aftermarket alarm systems. I PM'ed John a while ago about this, and unless your system has the "Alarm Disable" circuit built in, it will not work.

My system is somewhat complicated though:
1. Get out of truck and press lock button on fob
2. Fob sends signal to alarm brain stating, "Lock the doors"
3. Alarm brain locks the doors
4. Alarm brain sends signal back to fob stating the doors are locked, and fob tells me that doors are locked

IF I were to do this mod, my alarm would think that someone is breaking in, sound the alarm, and send the fob a page when I try to use it, just because I didn't shut the alarm off in the first place. It can be done (Theoretically, I think) but with some major wiring, and giving up at least $50 for another fob, and hacking it up, just to see if it works.

 

Hello All...
I have a question about the key pad mod. Can this be done on an 89 Ranger? If so, how, exactly? I have electric door locks, but no GEM or alarm. Thanks for any help you can give on this.

Charles.

 

Actually, yes. Get your hands on a set of prints for the original wiring and you can use it as is. Do you have keyless entry? If not, you can just substitute the control box AS IS for your existing lock controller.

I don't have any spare boxes to modify now, and haven't done them for awhile. I got tired of it. I'm thinking about doing a how-to on the modifications necessary to apply it to a newer Ranger; but it hasn't been a priority.