Checking Interest: My custom voltmeter & switch panel for radio bezel (KY)
#1
My custom voltmeter & switch panel for radio bezel (KY)
Just posting to see if anyone would be interested in buying my custom panel for a mini voltmeter & 4 switches...
PICS:
Installs with some thin foam double-sided tape onto the cubby hole storage area that most aftermarket single DIN radio kits have.
I'll consider letting the voltmeter go along with the switches, but I need to get a new voltmeter in before I let this one go.
Only 3 of the switches were connected, all using push-on connectors, nothing was soldered on the switches.
All 4 switches have a GREEN LED indicator when ON.
The switches are selling on evilBay for about $4 each, they come in green, red, blue & yellow if you don't like green.
Since I already have everything wired into my truck, I'll include a new 7805 5v regulator with wires soldered on (if you need them) to make installation easier for the voltmeter.
If you want the voltmeter to automatically come on with the engine, you'll need a standard relay, some wire, push on terminals (or a relay socket with pigtails) and some time. Relay, wire, terminals & time not included.
If your radio kit has the cubby hole at the bottom rather than the top, you SHOULD be able to flip the panel upside down & turn the switches & voltmeter upside down also. No guarantees, I don't have a dash kit with the cubby hole on the bottom to test.
I'd like to get at least $30 + shipping for everything.
The voltmeter cost me about $20 alone.
- - - -
Or $15 + shipping for the bare panel, no voltmeter or switches.
- - - -
I MIGHT consider making some BLANK panels like mine minus any holes so you can mount anything you want.
I can even leave all 4 corners at right angles so you can sand the top or bottom edges to perfectly fit YOUR bezel.
Blank panels of the same textured material will probably run $10 + shipping.
PICS:
Installs with some thin foam double-sided tape onto the cubby hole storage area that most aftermarket single DIN radio kits have.
I'll consider letting the voltmeter go along with the switches, but I need to get a new voltmeter in before I let this one go.
Only 3 of the switches were connected, all using push-on connectors, nothing was soldered on the switches.
All 4 switches have a GREEN LED indicator when ON.
The switches are selling on evilBay for about $4 each, they come in green, red, blue & yellow if you don't like green.
Since I already have everything wired into my truck, I'll include a new 7805 5v regulator with wires soldered on (if you need them) to make installation easier for the voltmeter.
If you want the voltmeter to automatically come on with the engine, you'll need a standard relay, some wire, push on terminals (or a relay socket with pigtails) and some time. Relay, wire, terminals & time not included.
If your radio kit has the cubby hole at the bottom rather than the top, you SHOULD be able to flip the panel upside down & turn the switches & voltmeter upside down also. No guarantees, I don't have a dash kit with the cubby hole on the bottom to test.
I'd like to get at least $30 + shipping for everything.
The voltmeter cost me about $20 alone.
- - - -
Or $15 + shipping for the bare panel, no voltmeter or switches.
- - - -
I MIGHT consider making some BLANK panels like mine minus any holes so you can mount anything you want.
I can even leave all 4 corners at right angles so you can sand the top or bottom edges to perfectly fit YOUR bezel.
Blank panels of the same textured material will probably run $10 + shipping.
#4
#7
UPDATE
Adding an update here folks,
I found an old (no name brand) radio dash kit that has the cubby hole area on the bottom/radio on top - opposite of mine.
The height of the panel needed for the bottom cubby style panel is shorter than the panel required for the top cubby style panels.
PLEASE take a minute to measure your cubby hole area right to the top of the radio for top cubby holes OR to the bottom of the radio for bottom cubby holes.
I want to make sure I cut the panels to fit as close as possible for YOUR setup.
My panel (top style) measures 1 9/16" tall.
The panel (bottom style) measured about 1 1/4" tall.
Your panel height may vary slightly & I have no problem cutting it to almost any height you need.
The width is within 1/32" wide whether the bezel has the rubbery stuff, no rubbery stuff or has been painted, so I'll be cutting them all the same width.
Thanks,
Now start ordering some!
I found an old (no name brand) radio dash kit that has the cubby hole area on the bottom/radio on top - opposite of mine.
The height of the panel needed for the bottom cubby style panel is shorter than the panel required for the top cubby style panels.
PLEASE take a minute to measure your cubby hole area right to the top of the radio for top cubby holes OR to the bottom of the radio for bottom cubby holes.
I want to make sure I cut the panels to fit as close as possible for YOUR setup.
My panel (top style) measures 1 9/16" tall.
The panel (bottom style) measured about 1 1/4" tall.
Your panel height may vary slightly & I have no problem cutting it to almost any height you need.
The width is within 1/32" wide whether the bezel has the rubbery stuff, no rubbery stuff or has been painted, so I'll be cutting them all the same width.
Thanks,
Now start ordering some!
#8
Another Update
Forgot to mention...
I ran out of the thin material for the panels, so all the custom panels will be made from 1/8" +/- thick material.
It looks exactly the same as the thinner stuff, it's just stronger.
- - - -
Another note on mounting it to your dash kit,
If you don't want to use double sided foam tape to attach it to the dash kit, you could also drill & countersink a screw on each side that will screw into the cubby hole surround.
I didn't want any fasteners to be seen & after a few times installing & removing the screws, the cubby hole surround will wear out & the screws won't hold as well.
I ran out of the thin material for the panels, so all the custom panels will be made from 1/8" +/- thick material.
It looks exactly the same as the thinner stuff, it's just stronger.
- - - -
Another note on mounting it to your dash kit,
If you don't want to use double sided foam tape to attach it to the dash kit, you could also drill & countersink a screw on each side that will screw into the cubby hole surround.
I didn't want any fasteners to be seen & after a few times installing & removing the screws, the cubby hole surround will wear out & the screws won't hold as well.
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