Blue 04 Cruise Control
#26
#27
Oh yes I agree. But I still can tell from it being the same style LED I've used on tons of mods, they just look overexposed. He probably thinks that in person, they look cleaner, and more vivid but not as overly bright looking as the photos do. Every time I take pics of my mods I think the same thing.
#28
#35
04 Gauges are NOT swappable. Mileage is stored in the Cluster. If you swap the gauges and something happens where the truck wiont start due to a security measure you could find yourself in a very interesting situation.
I did NOT swap clusters. I simply used 'parts' from an 05 cluster inorder to 'modify' my cluster so that I have level 2 gauges.
I repeat, 04 gauges ARE NOT swappable as the mileage will be off,. Milage is stored BY THE ODOMETER. Having a dealership do it, will ensure that the 'mileage on odometer is not accurate' check box being checked on your title.
However, 04+ gauges DO have interchangeable parts.
I did NOT swap clusters. I simply used 'parts' from an 05 cluster inorder to 'modify' my cluster so that I have level 2 gauges.
I repeat, 04 gauges ARE NOT swappable as the mileage will be off,. Milage is stored BY THE ODOMETER. Having a dealership do it, will ensure that the 'mileage on odometer is not accurate' check box being checked on your title.
However, 04+ gauges DO have interchangeable parts.
Last edited by FMD; 03-28-2009 at 07:10 PM.
#37
#39
I disagree 100% - getting the board out is easy, if you understand how it goes together.
I remember you telling me "the needles on the 04+ do not come off" -
Watch my videos and you will see how easy it is.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=83005
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=83001
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=69913
Last edited by Jp7; 03-28-2009 at 08:08 PM.
#41
#42
I know for a fact that a 2003 ford f150 lightning will not start without a cluster. I never tried to start my truck without the cluster. I really think you should just swap the board, its not that hard- Wait until your backup cluster comes.
#44
The board has all of the circuitry on it. The blubs that come stock sit in the little holders that screw into the board. If your planning on doing things like I did, your going to need to modify one of those little holders by soldering 2 small wires to the positive and negative leads on this holder. This way you will have a holder that can provide power to your custom lighting. I am assuming your going to buy the oznium ribbon LED's, and that your going to stick them to the white backing. Drill a hole in the white backing and run the wires from the inside out of the hole, and then the wires will be attached to the bulb holder, which will twist into the stock location. I used the center one of the 5 on the back. I am fairly certain the bottom metal tab on the center connector is the positive, and the top one is the negative. The other 4 connectors are reverse (top is hot, bottom is ground)
I can make a map showing which sides are hot in a photo. If you want me to make you a "wired holder" I can do it and mail it out.
The only part that holds the board to the rest of the innards is the odometer chip (after you take the screws out)
To seperate the "innards"
1: Take off 1 sock on one foot and place your bare foot firmly against a metal vent in your house to ground your body
2: Use a flat ruler and slightly, slowly and evenly push against the sharp pins that rest in the female housing on the board
3: After the flat piece pops out some, use a eyeglass screwdriver to carefully get it the rest of the way out
After this you can toss the green piece of plastic behind the odometer chip out the window: You now have a free board.
Maybe when you get your cluster we can do a webcam to webcam chat so I can help you in real time.
But to answer your question briefly: Your stock board itself will remain 100% unmodified.
I can make a map showing which sides are hot in a photo. If you want me to make you a "wired holder" I can do it and mail it out.
The only part that holds the board to the rest of the innards is the odometer chip (after you take the screws out)
To seperate the "innards"
1: Take off 1 sock on one foot and place your bare foot firmly against a metal vent in your house to ground your body
2: Use a flat ruler and slightly, slowly and evenly push against the sharp pins that rest in the female housing on the board
3: After the flat piece pops out some, use a eyeglass screwdriver to carefully get it the rest of the way out
After this you can toss the green piece of plastic behind the odometer chip out the window: You now have a free board.
Maybe when you get your cluster we can do a webcam to webcam chat so I can help you in real time.
But to answer your question briefly: Your stock board itself will remain 100% unmodified.
Last edited by Jp7; 03-29-2009 at 02:10 PM.
#46
Don't use LED's like I did. Do this instead.
Buy these: Just trust me. Oznium products are friggin awesome.
http://www.oznium.com/led-ribbon
I would make 100 clusters this way before I made one more the way mine is.
Last edited by Jp7; 03-30-2009 at 09:02 PM.
#47
oh don't worry about it.
so i already ordered the component LED's from superbright. but those ozniums look a LOT easier. so i might just order those and find something to do with the components. maybe the cruise control pods.
have you worked with the ozniums yet? how would you recommend doing them? for example using any of the reflective 3M foil tape to bounce the light? and from what i have read they are very bright, so im guessing not much of it would be needed for the gauges or HVAC.
so i already ordered the component LED's from superbright. but those ozniums look a LOT easier. so i might just order those and find something to do with the components. maybe the cruise control pods.
have you worked with the ozniums yet? how would you recommend doing them? for example using any of the reflective 3M foil tape to bounce the light? and from what i have read they are very bright, so im guessing not much of it would be needed for the gauges or HVAC.
#48
oh don't worry about it.
so i already ordered the component LED's from superbright. but those ozniums look a LOT easier. so i might just order those and find something to do with the components. maybe the cruise control pods.
have you worked with the ozniums yet? how would you recommend doing them? for example using any of the reflective 3M foil tape to bounce the light? and from what i have read they are very bright, so im guessing not much of it would be needed for the gauges or HVAC.
so i already ordered the component LED's from superbright. but those ozniums look a LOT easier. so i might just order those and find something to do with the components. maybe the cruise control pods.
have you worked with the ozniums yet? how would you recommend doing them? for example using any of the reflective 3M foil tape to bounce the light? and from what i have read they are very bright, so im guessing not much of it would be needed for the gauges or HVAC.
You need to take the cluster apart and understand how it works before you start getting ideas of doing it. The strips are just LED's mounted to a ribbon that has a sticky side. You can put them so they shine through the numbers on the cluster and you will get fantastic results. Do it just like the guy with the cluster above shows. It is pretty much the same with any make or model. You won't need foil tape, because you are projecting light, not reflecting light. If I had to do it over again, I'd do it this way. I didn't know about these when I did my cluster.