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Interior Semi-Tech General discussion of interior for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 09-27-2006
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DASH REMOVAL Search results

DASH REMOVAL Search results

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I did a SEARCH on two forums, and this is what I got:

nah didnt have to touch the steering wheel...the trick is the 3 (or 4 dont remember) big gold bolts that if u take them off the entire thing will fall down and make life 10 times easier.

i took mine out of my 96 ranger, same interior as today's, all it is are 2 bolts by the fuse panel, pull the trim panel off the top where the defroster air comes out, it just snaps out, two bolts straight in front of the steering wheel on the fire wall one on the passenger side same postion. pull out the foot kickpanel on the passenger side and theres one bolt there. there is a nut for the steering shaft that has to come ALL THE WAY OUT to get everything out in one piece, disconnect the computer and wiring harness and a little bolt by the gas pedal, and your done. doesnt take but about a good 2-3 hours. Have fun

I just worked my way around the dash looking for mounting points. Start at the ends, should be 2 large gold bolts on the very ends by the fuse box and to the right of the glove box. The defroster valence snaps out revealing 2 bolts up top, a bracket to the right of the gas pedal, steering shaft bolt like stated above must come all the way out. Electical connections in the engine compartment on the drivers side, should be 3 big connectors with 1 bolt in the middle of each. Other misc. bolts that need to be found. Note: be careful to not spin the steering wheel too much once the steering shaft is disconnected. A buddy who was helping me spun mine which ruined my clockspring (electrical connection in steering wheel). That caused the airbag light to come on which means no airbag also the horn didnt work either, thats was a $50 part and another fun installation. Also be carful with the blend doors when the dash assembly is out also they are very touchy and known to break on some year rangers. It was an experience that took a good 4 hours out of my life. Good luck.

Call "Helm Publications" they will have the shop manual for your truck. Just specify what year and make and they will send you a shop manual. It is over 1000 pages. I paid like $160 for mine, it is actually two 500 paged books. They even have a separate book for wiring diagrams. The number is 1-800-782-4356. This book will show you how to take apart and reassemble everything in your truck.


If you have any experience with this, please add any helpful tips, so I can make this as smooth as possible for me. By the way, I am working on a 1998 ranger dash, so no advice for pre95 dashes please. Thanks to anyone who contributes. (I really want to avoid buying that 160 dollar manual.)
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Old 09-27-2006
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When taking my 2001 dash apart... I pretty much just did the same thing. Looked for the big gold bolts and went from there.
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Old 09-28-2006
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Blend doors?

"Also be carful with the blend doors when the dash assembly is out also they are very touchy and known to break on some year rangers."

What are blend doors, where are they located?
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Old 09-28-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas501
"Also be carful with the blend doors when the dash assembly is out also they are very touchy and known to break on some year rangers."

What are blend doors, where are they located?
There is an internal valve called the "blend door" in the HVAC plenum that controls the temperature of the air. In this case, I think he may be referring to the vacuum servos that move the various routing doors of the HVAC system.

I would take a close look at the wiring before pulling the dash. There is a good chance that the individual wire or wires can be repaired without resorting to all that work.
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Old 09-28-2006
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"I would take a close look at the wiring before pulling the dash. There is a good chance that the individual wire or wires can be repaired without resorting to all that work."
I followed the LB/RD wire that was fried/melted, and unfortunately it feeds into the the large wire bundle. On close inspection of the LB/RD wire, the surrounding wires were not affected, however, because it seems that it feeds into the wire bundle, I cannot be sure it did not do damage the the wires surrounding it in the bundle. You had mentioned earlier that the LB/RD wire travels in the bundle, but does not necessarily run into the firewall with the rest of the wires in the bundle, but you also added that the LB/RD wire does itself go to the firewall and into the engine bay and finally into the distribution box (I assume). If there is anyway I can avoid ripping out the dash, I welcome this advice. I would need to know how I can replace this LB/RD wire alone, but I would need to know where it enters the firewall.

I really do appreciate all the advice you have given me so far Bob, thanks.
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Old 09-28-2006
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The LB/RD color code originates at the dimming module and is present only in the interior to power the dash illumination.

The color code of the feed to the dimming module is solid brown and it comes either directly from the main light switch or it goes through the park lamps relay on the way. Trucks with a RAP module (for the remote keyless entry) are the ones that have the park lamp relay. With RKE, there is also a short WH/BK wire between the headlamp switch and the relay. All of this is still in the interior, of course.

Tracing the circuit upstream from the main light switch, the color code for the parking lamp circuit is tan/white. This is the wire that passes through the bulkhead connector in the firewall. It is fed directly from fuse #11 (15A) in the engine bay distribution box.
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Old 09-28-2006
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gonna ask you my next question in the electrical forum in my other thread Bob.
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