Recently purchased a wiring harness for my manual door that the PO installed before I got the truck. I also installed a power mirror then plugged up the HaRNESS behind the kick panel and after replacing the power mirror switch everything work nicely. So I ordered a power window regulator and installed it yesterday plugged it up but the window switch on the driver side would not raise or lower the window I checked and there’s no voltage coming through to the power motor. I do not have a window switch installed on the passenger side the harness is just hanging there with nothing plugged in to it. My question is would the switch on the driver side work without a switch being installed on the passenger side i.e. does the voltage pass through the passenger side switch before it gets to the window motor? The switch on the driver side appears to be working when depressing it I get about 2.4 MV on the plug for the passenger side window motor. I have tested the window motor with a 12 V battery and it works. Any help with this question will be appreciated and I apologize for quoting in on an old post.

PS: Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the passenger side door?

LARRY, Harmony162

 

What YEAR Ranger?

Here is the diagram for 1997 and should be similar for 1995-2003, fuse numbers changed


The master and passenger switch both get 12volts with key on, separately
The GROUNDS are what control the windows, passenger side switch gets its 2 grounds from Master, so master ground is a big deal

So no, the master switch doesn't need the passenger switch connected to control drivers side window
Make sure you see 12volts at Master with key on, light blue/black stripe wire
And make sure it also has a good ground, drivers kick panel, black wire

 

97 Ranger manual to power window conversion
Ron I don’t think you quite understood what I was asking my driver side window works fine but I’m getting no power At the new passenger side connector. I haven’t checked for ground at the window motor on the passenger side when I depress the passenger side button on the driver side master switch I get about 2 millivolts change at the passenger side window motor plug that’s why I believe the master switch is OK I do not have a switch installed on the passenger side. The plug is just hanging in the door not hooked to anything and what I was wondering is does the ground or voltage pass through the passenger side switch to get to the window motor. I’m wondering if I installed a switch on the passenger side would everything then work. I believe the switch on the driver side is OK because when I was depress it I’m getting millivolts at the window motor plug on the passenger side the voltmeter goes back to zero when I let up on the switch.

 

Yes, the passenger switch needs to be installed for the passenger side motor to work from master side

Per diagram, there is no connection to the motor unless switch is in place/connected

 

Ron, I figured you could answer my question I printed that wiring diagram out and I came to the same conclusion that you just expressed no way that motor is going to run without the switch in place so I will order a switch and hog out a hole with the Dremel tool because the door panel on the manual door is different doesn’t have provision for switches.
Thank you so much for figuring that out for me once again you have proved your expert status.
Thanks and kind regards, Larry

 

Your welcome

You can put 2 jumper wires in the passenger side connector to make that window work

As per drawing
White/yellow and Red/yellow wires need to be connected
And
tan/blue and yellow/red wires need to be connected together

Then master can control passenger side until new switch arrives

 

Ron my switch connector seems to only have three wires I have included pictures it has a red and a yellow a red and a green and a black
Larry

 

That connector is for the power Door Lock switch, it uses pink and black wires

The 2 wire connector behind it in the picture, red/yellow, and yellow/red wires is for the window motor, follow it to find the window switch connector

 

will do. I would’ve never figured that outI would’ve never figured that out
Larry

 

Ron I am back with one more question. Your idea about following the wires from the motor work I finally found that switch receptacle stuff way up behind the regulator. I made jumpers and installed them and with a test the driver side master switch works perfectly. The question is this before I cut the old manual regulator out and disable my window crank. I want know that the new power window regulator I purchased will work. As far as mounting the regulator is Concerned it matches up well and I believe it will bolt in without a problem, however, my question is will it engage with the window slide that is installed currently or will I have to change the glass and the slide that the regulator arm attaches to?
Thanks in advance for your almost unbelievable knowledge of all things RANGER,
Larry

 

Ron I am back with one more question. Your idea about following the wires from the motor work I finally found that switch receptacle stuff way up behind the regulator. I made jumpers and installed them and with a test the driver side master switch works perfectly. The question is this before I cut the old manual regulator out and disable my window crank. I want know that the new power window regulator I purchased will work. As far as mounting the regulator is Concerned it matches up well and I believe it will bolt in without a problem, however, my question is will it engage with the window slide that is installed currently or will I have to change the glass and the slide that the regulator arm attaches to?
Thanks in advance for your almost unbelievable knowledge of all things RANGER,
Larry

 

As far as I know the glass bracket and slider are the same for manual and power, and 1993-2011 are the same

Just the regulator is different

 

RonD: thanks for the response glad to hear that.
I have a couple more questions I hope you know something about a ranger automatic transmission. I am fixing to have my transmission rebuilt and I was going to have my mechanic weld in a drain plug but he says he’s never learn to weld I was wondering if you had any experience with those bolt in drains? Seems like I read somewhere that they were bad about loosening up and leaking after a bit so what I’m going to do is take one of those bolt in Drain plugs with me when I turn the truck in for repairs also I would like to buy a new pan with a drain already installed but I’m having trouble identifying the correct pan I know I have a 4R44E Tranny. I want to buy a Dorman 265-831 pan but I can’t get anyone to tell me that that it will fit I believe it is for a four-wheel-drive but aren’t the transmissions for a four-wheel-drive and a two wheel drive the same? My truck is a 97 ranger 2 Wheel dr w/3.0 engine. Can you put me on the right pan? My tranny is suffering from low pressure (75# at idle causing delayed engagement) I don’t know whether it’s the valve body leaking or the servo shafts/bores wore out or possibly the front pump is getting worn, at any rate if it is the pump I’m going to have to buy one because that’s not a part of a normal soft rebuild. I don’t think there is a problem with the solenoids because the transmission shifts perfect. Again thanks for all your help looking forward to your knowledge on transmissions, Larry

 

Yes, Dorman 265-831 pan is an 18 hole so for the A4LD or 4R44E/55E

4WD automatics had a deeper pan to hold a bit more ATF, other than that they match up gasket/bolt wise, not sure if dipstick is different, I wouldn't think so

But have to ask, why a drain plug?

The reason Ford, or most trans makers, don't have a drain plugs on automatics is because when you change the fluid you ALWAYS change the filter, so have to drop the pan
So drain plug is moot and could even be a detriment if it leaked or ??
And service interval is 30k miles so 2 or 3 years between changes

A second trans cooler is about the best $$$ you can spend on any automatic, heat is what kills automatics

 

once again you’ve come through with the right answer I will take your advice and forget the drain plug pan
Thanks, Ron

 

once again you’ve come through with the right answer I will take your advice and forget the drain plug pan
Thanks, Ron

PS:I don’t have an owners manual so I didn’t know that you’re supposed to change the fluid every 30,000. I doubt that I will put 30,000 miles on it in my lifetime as I have mentioned before I’m 75 now and don’t drive much. The transmission job will probably be my last major upgrade. Just about got everything else done except for paint job with the weather change. When all is finished I will have about $2000 in my little $500 truck. I’ve change the seats are I now have bucket seats with the center console from a Mazda. I want to put a factory CD radio in but I can’t find out what other Ford vehicles might have one that will fit the Ranger’s have all been picked over. There are tons of Explores Sables and Tauruses. Any help on that one will be appreciated. I’ve also found a set of 57 olds fiesta spinner hubcaps how do you think they would look on there.

 

You can download your owners manual from here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/

Good to have, and easier to search than the book type, lol

The factory CD units usually had a separate amplifier, "premium sound system", so just a heads up, it won't be plug and play even though its "factory"
So you might be better off with a 3rd party unit with built in amplifier, most 3rd party brands sell Ranger wiring converters so can be plug and play

Have a look here at the 1996/7 wiring diagrams: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...diagrams.shtml

Info here on a 1995 Ranger 3rd party install: https://www.therangerstation.com/Mag..._install.shtml

 

Well Ron I think I finally got it figured out after much research and looking at pictures I figured out I’ve got a pre 1993 junkyard door. I took the door panel off one last time and I figured out that by re-orienting the new regulator to approximately the 2 o’clock and 8 o’clock position. I was able to use two of the factory mounting holes and looking at many pictures I figured out that the pre-1993 doors do not have the same drilled holes as the 93-11 do. (see pictures). Also by mounting the regulator in the 2-8 o’clock position I lost access to the one on the pre-formed standoffs so I used a pak of washers to get the regulator mounting pad away from the door on the inside. I had to practically stand on my head to get the washer pak in there. LOL. It’s still not perfect but the window goes almost all the way down. Any further and the lift arm will jump out of the slide (see picture). I never would’ve figured this thing out without the expert help and knowledge of RonD. So once again and I hope finally thanks Ron for all of your help I am sure I will be back with the next problem I discover. The truck is going to the shop Wednesday for a transmission rebuild to get rid of the dredded delayed engagement.

Then all that will be left Is a new epoxy paint job.
i will happily ride for evermore. Pictures to follow —, Larry

I

 

I don't think the 1983-1992 doors fit on 1993 and up?
But can't say I ever tried to do it

 

Well I don’t know what it is but is dang something with that 93 to 11 because the body lines don’t match up if you line up the bottom the tops out if you lineup the top the bottoms out and the pre-drilled areas are different from 93 to 11 so I don’t know what it is it may just be a bastard Run at the factory! who knows. Maybe somebody else can chime in that has some experience with this problem.
because I am stumped. Don’t get me wrong everything is working and looks fairly good at 3 feet you can’t tell. It’s just that it isn’t perfect and I am a perfectionist.
Larry

 

I'm wondering if your replaced door is 2006-2011
We know Ford changed the mounting for the mirrors, they may have changed the window regulator at the same time.


EDIT Never mind, LMC shows same part for 93 to 11

 

Possibility. I think I know how to solve my problem. The next time I am at pull a part I am going to see if I can find a white or light colored door from 93 to 97 Ranger. I will just buy has a whole door it would be nice if I could also find one for a Power Ranger so I wouldn’t have to deal with the manual conversion again.

I may have more than one problem at work my truck took a fairly good lick on the drivers door that’s why the door was replaced by the PO. I have got to consider the fact that it may have poured the a or B pillar out of the alignment when it got hit. I had to fix the B pillar panel behind the front door when I bought the truck that’s the reason I got it for $500 the panel behind the front door was bashed in. I used the normal procedures that any body sho would use. I used a 16 pound sledge hammer from inside the opening behind the jump seat to pop out the panel. Also replaced the rocker panel which was bashed. A new truck would fix the problem, but, I’ve already fixed virtually every major system on the truck I have everything from the alarm system to the HVAC system you name it they’ve all had problems that I’ve had to debunk and fix. You can bet that any truck that I found would have many of the same issues that I have to deal with again.
On the pre 93 door come to think of it I had an 87 Ranger back in the day and I’m pretty sure that door wouldn’t have fit my truck. So, it may be a post 06 door on my truck as Ron mentioned.
Larry, still pondering what to do...