gUYS i HAVE TRIED AND TRIED AND HAVE HAD NO luck so far. Please I need your assistance. I have recorded 2 video clips so you guys could see for yourself. thanks

YouTube - FORD RANGER OHC PART 1

YouTube - FORD RANGER OHC/DIMMER MIRROR/DOME/DUAL VISOR PART 2

 

ok those videos r really long........ so wuts going on?

 

I cant seem to get it right. although my ohc and temperature works. my dome or lighted visor only work when i connect the green/yellow to the green/blue wire in the dome. but then when i do that both the visors/dome and ohc console stay lit. i have tried every right up.

 

in that video on the computer what instructions are you looking at?

Im gonna suggest disconnect the visors and see what happens. Then if still doesn't work move on to something else

Im guessing your problem is somewhere in the sun visor connection.

 

Kinda hard to tell from the videos but sounds like you have the lights wired into the constant power line from the dome light.

 

The second vid says that you have the black/light blue connected to the light green/orange. Do NOT do this anywhere.

Black/light blue = switched dome light power for console and dome (hot with any door open except as noted below)

Light green/orange = courtesy light power for glove box, cargo box, visors, map lights (hot with key on)

[Note: both of the above circuits become hot or remain hot for 10~20 minutes following the last door event (closed/opened/power locked/power unlocked) with the ignition switch off. After the time delay, the circuits are turned off by the GEM via a relay. This is known as the Battery Saver feature and it is designed to prevent a dead battery if a dome or courtesy light remains on for a long period with the ignition off.]

 

u may have to check again.mmm i


This is great info. okay time for the headliner to come daown again and this time i will be focused; well at least really focused;;;; OKAY FINE I MEAN SUPER FOCUSED. Nah just kidding i will get right to it.

 

Tap the black/light blue of the overhead console into the black/light blue that goes to the factory Ranger dome connector.

Tap the light green/orange wires of the sunvisors and overhead console into the light green/orange that goes to the factory Ranger dome connector.

The dimmer wire of the overhead console is either red/black or light blue/red depending on the year. Tap it into the light blue/red of the ranger's radio harness.

The overhead console power wire is gray/yellow. Many how-to's tell you tap it into the yellow/black of the radio harness. That's OK unless you are also going to install the autolamp mirror. In that case, it is better to tap the gray/yellow of the console and the red/yellow of the mirror into the Ranger's gray/yellow - it can be found at several places but the easiest is probably at the heat/AC control panel. This change will keep the autolamps from turning on the headlights needlessly after dark when the ignition key in the ACCESSORY position.

Blue/white and blue/yellow to the same on the ambient temp sensor.

Gray/black tapped to the gray/black of the GEM.

Black to chassis ground.

 

Okay I did all you stated and yes the visors.ohc works. the dome/dimmer worked but i had to disconnect the spced blak/blue wire from the domes blk/blue wire because once agin the dome and the ohc stays on.

and my cargo light comes on when the doors are closed but goes off when the doors are opened. reminded that their are no wires now that are hooked up to the domelight and still when the dome is hooked up it still comes on and stays on.

is their a delay of something... what am i missing here. brotha can we exchange numbers . lmk thanks

 

Okay I have highlighted in bold your statement and copied and pasted info from another post by a member on this board.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ng-mirror.html

please explain this as im getting 2 conflicting views. it stateds that Hooking up the auto-dimming mirror is not that difficult. If you have the OHC already, you already have most (if not all) of what you need in the OHC wiring harness.

If it is ONLY an auto-dimming mirror, and does not have the auto-headlights feature (or, it has it, but you don't want to hook it up), there are 3 wires you need to be concerned about:

+12V constant (Green/Yellow) - this connects to the Dome Light Power in the OHC (Black/Blue)

+12V switched (Red/Yellow) - this connects to the Console Electronics Power in the OHC (Gray/Yellow)

Ground (Black) - this connects to the Ground in the OHC (Black)

- there is one more wire, a (Black/Pink) one -- this is the Reverse Sense wire. You can run another wire from the mirror to the (Black/Pink) wire in the bundle of wires that drops from the bottom of the dash to the transmission tunnel (just to the left of the center of the dash). If you connect this wire, the auto-dim feature will be disabled when your truck is in reverse. A lot of folks don't bother hooking this one up, but it's there if you want to do it.

If you have the auto-dim mirror with the auto-headlights option, then there is one additional wire (White/Purple) that you need to run down to the vicinity of your headlight switch. This wire is a trigger that turns your headlights and parking lights on/off automatically. It becomes the "trigger" for two relays [one connected in parallel with your headlight circuit, and one connected in parallel with your parking light circuit]. The "auto-dim / auto-headlights" writeup in the how-to section details how to wire up the two relays needed for this function.

EDIT: actually, in reading back through that [[[[...and thinking about it, the (Green/Yellow) [+12V constant] is probably only used for the auto-headlights feature as well -- providing power to the circuit after ignition-off, so that it can keep your headlights/parking lights on for <<delay>> number of seconds after the truck has been shut off. The auto-dimming function of the mirror is pretty much self-contained and only requires switched 12V (accessory power) and ground to operate.
__________________

 

From the factory, there is only one path to the cargo lights and that is through the switch in the dimming module. You may be getting a backfeed from the Mustang domelight.

Trace the current path to and through the dome to make sure that:

• The black/light blue goes only to the center bulb of the Mustang dome
• The light green/orange feeds the 2 switches for the map lights of the Mustang dome
• The ground screw actually goes from the common ground of all three bulbs to the truck's body.

If you still have it, you could try swapping in the original Ranger dome for a quick test before trouble shooting the Mustang dome.

 

I can't see any reason why the power to the autolamps mirror should be controlled by the door switch.


light green/yellow - always hot
red/yellow - hot in run or hot in start/run
black/pink - reverse light circuit
black - ground
white/violet - to the neg sides of the 2 relay coils for autolamps

 

dang it...

power to autolamps mirror should connect to green/yellow, NOT black/blue. I see that my 2-year-old hand-drawn schematic for the wiring harness I built shows it connected to pin 1 instead of where it should be on pin 2... I wonder if I wired the harness that way?? hmm... I'll have to check...

anyway, Billy -- sorry for the confusion!

 

I will be doing this right now and i will let you know what i find. thanks agin for all your help.

 

There is a GEM-controlled relay that changes the current path going to the dome depending on whether the door is open or closed. It's hard to explain in words but a current that is incorrectly coming from the dome light on the black/light blue could make the cargo lights come on only with the doors closed.

The most likely cause for this would be a lack of ground at the ground screw in the Mustang lamp. So be sure that the ground is making good contact. Then check the connections to the bulbs and switches that I listed before.

 

wow thanks i will try this and again i do really appreciate all your help. it really helps and makes since when someone such as yourself take the time to break it down so that newbs like me can undertstand it.

 

Did you ever fix this problem? Mine is doing the same thing. Right now I have the Red/Yellow(auto dimming mirror) and the Gray/Yellow wire unplugged so the lights don't stay on. But like before the OHC shuts off when the dome light cuts off.

 

well i have since left the issue along as I will revisit it agin soon. I have been doing a entire dash harness and engine harness swap for power mirror/doors/locks. im finished now so i will be taking a look again.

 

I am seriously stumped. I unplugged the auto-dim mirror and it dosen't change. The only thing that will keep the map lights and dome off is to leave the gray/yellow wire unplugged.

 

I have it fixed. Check this out here!!!!!!

 

I have also fixed mine by accident. After changing and swapping out the dash/engine harness; I then hooked up all the wires and the problem was solved. Hell I even got the delay interior mod going on. doing the day if you open the doors the domes come on and go off immediately when the doors are closed. But at night when you open the doors the domes come on and stay on when the doors are closed for a few seconds. this feature is control by the slider switch on the rear view dimmer mirror.

 

I have to say you are probably the first person to have that mod.

 

Hey their Ranger Dog; what would I be the first to have?

Also I spoke with John (wvcat) said you uys had a great meet and you showed him how to code a keyfob. I would like to kmnow how to do this as well. can you give a writeup in a new thread? thanks buddy

 

Answers in bold.

 

WoW!!! I did not know I would be the first. I dont know how I did it but hell I just hooked up everything. The only tjing I dont have right now is the auto headlamp which by the end of the day I will; because Im freaking retired and bored and havenothing else to do. LOL well thks for shring that I am the first; Im still trying to figure out what I did. lol

Thanks also for the coding of the keyfob. I will do that as well.