2004 XLT, 4DR. Just repaired left rear door lock cables. There are plenty of cable end repair sources on internet and "how to" so I will only share my particular experience with problems and rivets. Based on the condition of the door handle rivets and slight damage to plastic rivet seats, both doors have been "fixed" before. Door would not open so I had to remove the door panel while inside the truck. FIRST, I should have drilled out the rivets and the door probably would have unlocked by pulling on the cables. If it had been a frozen lock or extreme rust issue, probably would not have opened.
I see multiple reasons online to believe that the factory used 3/16" rivets or 1/4" rivets. Whatever the size, the repair guy was careless in drilling out the rivets. The bottom hole was slightly oblong and measured .261" and the top hole .280". As a repair, he used plastic zip ties around both ends of the two cables. Because of his created holes sizes, he used a 1/4" exploding, peel type rivet. When the rivet set, the peel end had a diameter of 1.25" !! My goal was to use a 3/16" rivet.
I tested a 3/16" exploding peel type rivet in a steel test hole that measured 2.80"; however, I had to add a backup # 10 washer after I saw the peelings being pulled into the hole. With the backup washer on the blind side of the hole, the peeling rivet worked great. For a perfect fit at the rivet flange seat, I used a # 10 steel flat washer (finished side face down) under a smaller rivet flange. 3/16" rivets with 1/2" flange were very difficult for me to find.

If you are rebuilding with a 3/16" rivet, the following may work for you:
Ford (black) 714004-S900, Clips and Fasteners Co. has the necessary specs.

Ford (black) W705711-S417, my measurements: length, .425" and flange, .473". Because of damage to the holes, I did not try to use this one. Before starting your repair, I recommend reading on line about "Rivet Length and Rivet Grip Range".