Escape bucket seat swap
#1
#2
dont recall what all needed to be done, but there was a guy on here that did this swap.. do a search should be able to find it
here.. found it for u....
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...seat-swap.html
here.. found it for u....
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...seat-swap.html
#6
Over the past couple of months I have spent a lot of time in wrecking yards looking for various things, seats being one of. What I have been looking for are to go into my 86 B2, but that is not where this is going. Over the years I have changed a large number of seats, both bench and bucket.
Seats used to be put together with hog rings and you needed to have a lot of time to reupholster a seat, or you had to fabricate new mounts, now they just slip over metal frames that are all made the same with different hole spacing for the rail mounts.
What I have learned in the last 15 years is to measure the width between the bolt holes (both width and length) on the seat base and look the seat over very close, remove the covering and see what the frame looks like under the foam/fabric, measure the width between the seat back attaching points and see what the mounting hole spread is. Most often you will find tilt/recline mechanism on the door side of the seat, the bolt hole spacing on the upper and lower portion of the mechanism are mostly the same, but the holes maybe different size. Again, pay attention.
Draw a sketch or take a picture of the frame and dimension it, then go to the salvage yard with drawing/pictures and tape measure in hand. Most of the seat bases are the same with different backs, adding more foam to the seat is a way the auto manufacturers can make a seat more comfortable without costing a whole lot more because they all use th same metal frames, so you can change out the back and seat padding from a seat that has a different hole spacing at the rails with your existing and the back from the junkyard seat and end up with what you want, not what the companies think you should have. After you see a seat without the covering on it, you will understand what I am saying.
Read the thread: Rattling seats....help!!!, I attempted to explain how to take a seat apart to inspect it for broken/loose parts.
Just because you have a low back or overly firm seat, doesn't mean that you have to change the whole seat, but sometimes that is easier.
An example being a roll over that bent the seat back but didn't damage the material or the seat pad, I picked up the seats for $20 (those seats came from an Explorer that had 3500 miles on it) and spent a couple hours at home changing the padding to another seat frame to make it more comfortable at a third the cost.
Have a look at the seats and make whatever you want.
This is so people can see that seats aren't complicated, all Ford seats I have worked on in the past 15 years are basically the same, some may be a little different, but not much.
I used the old low back frames for examples here because the Explorer frames are either still at the jy or in use.
I hope this helps some of you.
Ray
Seats used to be put together with hog rings and you needed to have a lot of time to reupholster a seat, or you had to fabricate new mounts, now they just slip over metal frames that are all made the same with different hole spacing for the rail mounts.
What I have learned in the last 15 years is to measure the width between the bolt holes (both width and length) on the seat base and look the seat over very close, remove the covering and see what the frame looks like under the foam/fabric, measure the width between the seat back attaching points and see what the mounting hole spread is. Most often you will find tilt/recline mechanism on the door side of the seat, the bolt hole spacing on the upper and lower portion of the mechanism are mostly the same, but the holes maybe different size. Again, pay attention.
Draw a sketch or take a picture of the frame and dimension it, then go to the salvage yard with drawing/pictures and tape measure in hand. Most of the seat bases are the same with different backs, adding more foam to the seat is a way the auto manufacturers can make a seat more comfortable without costing a whole lot more because they all use th same metal frames, so you can change out the back and seat padding from a seat that has a different hole spacing at the rails with your existing and the back from the junkyard seat and end up with what you want, not what the companies think you should have. After you see a seat without the covering on it, you will understand what I am saying.
Read the thread: Rattling seats....help!!!, I attempted to explain how to take a seat apart to inspect it for broken/loose parts.
Just because you have a low back or overly firm seat, doesn't mean that you have to change the whole seat, but sometimes that is easier.
An example being a roll over that bent the seat back but didn't damage the material or the seat pad, I picked up the seats for $20 (those seats came from an Explorer that had 3500 miles on it) and spent a couple hours at home changing the padding to another seat frame to make it more comfortable at a third the cost.
Have a look at the seats and make whatever you want.
This is so people can see that seats aren't complicated, all Ford seats I have worked on in the past 15 years are basically the same, some may be a little different, but not much.
I used the old low back frames for examples here because the Explorer frames are either still at the jy or in use.
I hope this helps some of you.
Ray
Last edited by Clem; 08-15-2009 at 04:51 PM.
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