Hi, this may be discussed somewhere, but when I searched nothing came up. My 2011 Ford Ranger Edge (70,000 miles), runs great but every now and then after I have driven it for a while , it won't start back up. It will turn over, I've already installed a new battery so that's not the problem. It acts like it wants to start, or it may start but then it dies. If I wait about 20 minutes it will start just fine as if nothing is wrong with it. There doesn't seem to be any issue while I am driving it. It's only after I have driven it for awhile, turn it off, perhaps go inside the store, come back out and it won't start. Crazy! Need help. I talked to a man who used to run an oil lube place and he suggested perhaps a sensor. Any ideas?

Thanks so much,
Judy

 

Hi,

Only sensor that could cause a no start is the CKP(crank position) sensor, and those rarely fail, not never but rarely and they won't start working again.

And you would get a CEL(check engine light) while trying to start engine if that was the problem, same with other sensors, except for 1, read on.

Couple of things to check.
All fuel injected computers have a "Clear Flooded Engine" routine, for Fords it is:
Turn on the key
Press gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down
Throttle position sensor(TPS) is now sending computer 4.5volts, at 0 RPMs(engine off) this tells computer to shut off fuel injectors but leave spark on.
You are now in "Clear Flooded Engine" mode

Now turn key to START, leaving gas pedal down all the way
Engine will crank but should not start because there is no fuel

You can try this to see if leaking injector is flooding the engine causing no start after sitting a short while.
Sitting over night gives fuel a chance to evaporate, so easy start.

But as you see by this test there is a way to shut off fuel injectors causing a no start.
IF, big if, the TPS was shorting out when warm it could be sending computer 4.5v even if your foot was off the gas pedal............
There would be no CEL because computer thinks you are holding down the gas pedal.
So no start.
Next time you have a no start unplug the TPS and try to start.


Other thing is the coil pack, it is a long shot, there are 3 coils in side and one might fail but all 3, could happen but coil pack problem is usually rough idle symptom, not a no start.

Another thing could be fuel pump or fuel pump relay.
Leave door open and turn on the key
You should hear the fuel pump hum for 2 seconds, it isn't quiet
Turn off key and turn it on again, listen for pump, then do it again.

You have primed the fuel system 3 times, now try to start engine.
If it starts then check valve in fuel pump or fuel pump itself is starting to fail.

If you don't hear fuel pump running then open engine fuse box and find the FR relay, unplug it and look at the pins, clean a dry, put it back in and see if you hear fuel pump now.

I assume the anti-theft light isn't flashing so PATS isn't cause the no start.

 

It does want to start, but it never quite gets there! You mentioned the anti-theft light. Yes, I do think it's blinking. The vehicle also had a check engine light that was on for years. We had it checked a couple of times, but it was never remedied.

Thanks for your response! Judy

 

It would be good to go to an auto parts store and have them read the codes, have a pen and paper and write them down, should be Pxxxx, 4 x's are the code numbers
Get all of them and have the guy Clear the codes, then see how long it takes for the CEL to come back on, i.e. CEL came on right away after leaves parts store, or it took 10min, or 20min, or didn't come back on until it cooled off and was started the next day.

Blinking anti-theft light could be your PATS key is starting to fail, do you have a second key that works?
If so try it for awhile.
Most Parts stores can also check PATS keys now.

 

Thanks so much for your input, Ron! I'll look into these things! Hope you have a wonderful day!

Judy