New member need help on 94 3.0 Ranger wont start
 

I have a 94 3.0 Ranger that will turn over but wont start. I have new spark plugs and wires, new distributor cap and rotary button. No clog in the fuel filter, fuel pump works, pressure in the Schrader valve ( not 50 to 60psi but pressure) dont have a tester. The fuel injector ohms 15 and I have 12 volts from fuel injector harness. Relay and fuses are all good.
I just got a helper to check the spark from my spark plug wires...I used an old spark plug, pulled spark plug wire put the old spark plug in wire, used jumper cables to ground from battery to spark plug....had helper start engine, got "combustion" for a second, then battery died.
I am now charging up my battery.
How or why did it finally try to start? I have done ever test and everything I could think of for the last 12 hrs and nothing! Any ideals would greatly be appreciated😀

Welcome to the forum

1986 to 1997 Rangers with fuel injection used 30-40psi fuel pressure, 1998 and up use 60-70psi

1994 was the last year for distributor and TFI spark system in the 3.0l Rangers.

You don't mention when it was running BEFORE and what led up to the no start?
If charging system is an issue so Battery Voltage is low then when you use the starter motor the voltage to the Computer, Coil and Spark module drops below 10 volts and nothing works, a no start because of low battery voltage.
Starter motor drops battery voltage by 2 to 2.3 volts when active, a "good battery" will have 12.3 to 12.8 volts, so should stay above 10volts while cranking engine

First test when you have a No start, and starter motor is turning engine, is the 50/50 test
Pull off the air tube on the upper intake manifold
Open throttle plate and spray gasoline or Quick Start(ether) into the intake
Try to start engine
If it starts and then dies Fuel is the issue
If it doesn't start then Spark is the issue
50/50

You can test for spark, and fuel pressure but you won't know if spark is at the right time or if fuel is actually getting into the cylinders, 50/50 tells you

The way this system works is that the distributor starts the ball rolling for both spark and fuel injectors.

The computer runs the fuel injectors but has no way to tell if you want to start the engine.
It waits for the TFI module to send it a Timing Pulse(PIP) signal so it can time injectors to engine RPMs
TFI module gets that PIP from a hall effect sensor in the distributor, this replaced the Points used on older distributors.
PIP signal also times the spark, so if you get repeated spark while cranking engine then distributor sensor is most likely working.
TFI module then sends that PIP signal to computer and computer starts opening fuel injectors
If injectors are not opening then could be a wiring issue at TFI module or computer.
TFI modules lasted a long time but not forever, lol, what does
Good TFI testing how-to here: Ford EEC-IV/TFI-IV Electronic Engine Control Troubleshooting

Computers also last a long time, very rare for one to fail, but rare is not never, it would be the very very last thing on the list but if there is no fuel injector function then computer could be the problem, does your CEL(check engine light) come on when key is turned on?
CEL means computer is powering up, no CEL could mean bad wire, fuse or relay, and no fuel because computer is OFF

Here is a pin diagram for your computer: http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv
1994 was also the last year for this 60-pin EEC-IV computer, 1995 and up used 104-pin EEC-V computer
So if it comes to it you can test wires from TFI to Computer


Do the 50/50 test and let us know

RonD posted some useful information here.

I would add, once you know the battery is good and fully charged and the truck will still not start is to use noid light to test for injection pulse signal.

Common problems I have found over the years on these trucks have been the Thick film module and Pickup in the distributor.

The test RonD posted should be helpful.

I will add many times not always when the pickup in the distributor starts to go bad the insulation around it will soften and fail.

You can tell this by poking it with your finger nail a obvious bad pick up a finger nail will easily leave an impression in it . ( this just makes testing it easier if it is obviously bad) however it could still be bad with good insulation

When they are really bad sometimes they will split apart and or get discolored.

the point here is if the insulation has softened up replace it even if it is not the cause of the no start condition.

whenever possible I would replace both the pick up and module if I found either was bad.

I would not be too concerned about the fuel pressure not being exactly up to par especially if your using a cheaper gauge.

If you have a high dollar pressure tester ( with a known to be good calibration ) you may consider tracking down the low pressure. even if the low pressure is not the cause of the no start condition.