Hey all,
Just brought home yesterday a 2010 ext cab 2.3 5 speed. has a nice Leer topper that i will likely remove and sell. has 211000 miles but seems well maintained and according to carfax its a one owner, i got it at a dealer. oil is clean and clear, interior is almost pristine, it lived most of its life with seat covers of some sort. pass side has full covver, driver side has back covered but not the seat. 60-40 bench. air tilt cruise, fog lights, 4 wheel disc brakes, is that common? don't know what else to say about it but it is GREAT.
i'm coming from a 93 S10 chevy that i got in 2012 with over 310,000 miles that ran great but got totaled last month by a guy with good insurance, and before that drove VW Bugs since the 80's. got the chevy in a trade for one of my Bugs.

Question is what should I do, timing belt just because? change all fluids, especially transmission? I don't know anything about hydraulic clutches, do they need adjusted, how to know if you need a new one?
Thanks, look forward to participating in the forum!

PS is there sticky on how to post pictures?

 

Welcome to the forum

2010-2012 Rangers all had 4 wheel disc brakes, and 4 wheel ABS

You have a 2.3l Duratec DOHC engine, it uses a timing chain not a belt, so doesn't need to be changed
1983 to 1997 Rangers had a 2.3l Lima SOHC engine that did use a timing belt, 2001 to 2012 Rangers used Duratec 2.3l

You have an M5OD-R1 manual transmission, it uses ATF, yes automatic transmission fluid in a manual trans, Mercon V is spec'ed, 2.8 quarts bone dry, so less if drained and refilled

It has a self adjusting hydraulic clutch with a reservoir in the engine bay, next to power brake booster, check it and keep it topped up, it shouldn't go down too much unless there is a leak

You can download your owners manual here if you don't have one: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
Or if you just want an easier way to look stuff up in the manual, lol.

Coolant TYPE is important, there are 3 types, just a heads up, there is NO standard for coolant colors, they can be all over the place, lol
1. Silicate based, used since the 1930s, usually green color, good for 2 years only

2. OAT(organic acid technology), late 1980's/early 1990's, red/pink colors, 5 year life, does NOT mix well with silicate(#1) causes a sludge in cooling system

3. HOAT(Hybrid organic acid technology), 2000's, yellow/gold/orange, 5-10year life, often called "lifetime coolant" because it last as long as warranty, NOT the life of the vehicle, lol
HOAT has silicate and OAT protection so best of both and can be mixed with either, so can be "topped up" with either if HOAT is not available, this is, of course, the most expensive type

Any brand of coolant will have its TYPE in the fine print so FIND IT, do not base it on the color


If you ever have to replace the clutch then you should also replace the rear cooling system hoses and fitings on the back of the engine
The 2.3l Duratec is a Mazda L engine, it was designed for transverse mounting in a front wheel drive car, so the rear of the engine cooling hoses are easy to see and repair
When mounted in the Ranger these cooling system hoses are hard to get to unless you pull out the transmission.

 

Thank you for the excellent information!

 

Just did the "front blinker mod", plan on doing "domelight mod" soon and any other cool interior things I can find.