Fog lights
#1
02-05-2017
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Hamilton, Mississippi
Posts: 25
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#2
02-06-2017
Yes, it will. But, as someone who swapped valances, it's a MAJOR PITA.
I'm a huge advocate for swapping over to the 01-03 (or newer, if you want) bumper with foglights. It may be a bit more expensive, but it's easier, and looks great. That's what I did, and I love it. For me it was 125 bucks plus a few bucks in shipping for the chrome top piece. The valance and fog lights were gifts. Fog lights usually run about 30 bucks and the valance I'd say about 50 or so.
I'm a huge advocate for swapping over to the 01-03 (or newer, if you want) bumper with foglights. It may be a bit more expensive, but it's easier, and looks great. That's what I did, and I love it. For me it was 125 bucks plus a few bucks in shipping for the chrome top piece. The valance and fog lights were gifts. Fog lights usually run about 30 bucks and the valance I'd say about 50 or so.
#3
02-06-2017
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Hamilton, Mississippi
Posts: 25
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Fog lights
Yes, it will. But, as someone who swapped valances, it's a MAJOR PITA.
I'm a huge advocate for swapping over to the 01-03 (or newer, if you want) bumper with foglights. It may be a bit more expensive, but it's easier, and looks great. That's what I did, and I love it. For me it was 125 bucks plus a few bucks in shipping for the chrome top piece. The valance and fog lights were gifts. Fog lights usually run about 30 bucks and the valance I'd say about 50 or so.
I'm a huge advocate for swapping over to the 01-03 (or newer, if you want) bumper with foglights. It may be a bit more expensive, but it's easier, and looks great. That's what I did, and I love it. For me it was 125 bucks plus a few bucks in shipping for the chrome top piece. The valance and fog lights were gifts. Fog lights usually run about 30 bucks and the valance I'd say about 50 or so.
#4
02-07-2017
If you have the switch in the dash, I would assume that you have the harness for the lights.
If you have 4WABS, follow the cable coming from the wheel hub and bearing assembly to it's connector. There should be either en empty, circular, 4 pin socket OR an unused cable hanging.
If you don't have 4wabs, it'll be in the same place, just a little more difficult to find.
Slide under and look up around the bumper area. There will be (should be) at least one plug on each side, same description as before.
Here's a photograph. The orange piece you see is the turn signal, for point of reference.
https://i.imgur.com/THNCJwo.jpg
If you do not see this, then that means you are not completely prewired for fog lights. In which case, dont' bother trying to tap in where Ford left off. I'll try and find the switch pinout (oem switch) if you wish to utilize it in a custom harness that you'll have to run yourself.
For that you will need a relay, a switch, and an inline fuse tap. I recommend a set of plugs so you can remove the lights easily.
If a custom harness is to be wired, pin 30 should go directly to the positive terminal of the battery. What size wire you use will depend on how much current your lights draw. Remember that this single wire has to support both lights. I recommend going at least one size larger than the chart I provide recommends for a good safety margin.
Pin 87A (if your relay has one) is unused.
Pin 87 goes directly to your lights.
Now, here is where your own judgment goes into play. There's multiple configurations for this area.
The first, and easiest, way is to simply connect pin 86 to constant hot (any source will suffice) and 85 to ground, placing the switch to interrupt either 86 or 85. Doesn't matter.
Second, and the way I recommend, is to connect pin 86 to a wire that's hot when the dash lights (and subsequently) the parking lights are on. This is factory configuration. Pin 85 again connects to ground. The switch can be placed on either 86 or 85, although my preference is 85.
Of course, if you choose to use the OEM switch, it will need a connection to the dash light circuit. Easiest place to get this for both the relay and the switch is at the heater control panel. There's a two pin connector with both power and ground, which can be tagged into.
The advantage to doing it this way, is that the lights can't stay on by accident and drain your battery, and always come on with your park lights, which could work as driving lights.
If you want them to come on with the key regardless of the light switch status, simply connect pin 86 to a key hot power source, which can be found at the radio.
If you have 4WABS, follow the cable coming from the wheel hub and bearing assembly to it's connector. There should be either en empty, circular, 4 pin socket OR an unused cable hanging.
If you don't have 4wabs, it'll be in the same place, just a little more difficult to find.
Slide under and look up around the bumper area. There will be (should be) at least one plug on each side, same description as before.
Here's a photograph. The orange piece you see is the turn signal, for point of reference.
https://i.imgur.com/THNCJwo.jpg
If you do not see this, then that means you are not completely prewired for fog lights. In which case, dont' bother trying to tap in where Ford left off. I'll try and find the switch pinout (oem switch) if you wish to utilize it in a custom harness that you'll have to run yourself.
For that you will need a relay, a switch, and an inline fuse tap. I recommend a set of plugs so you can remove the lights easily.
If a custom harness is to be wired, pin 30 should go directly to the positive terminal of the battery. What size wire you use will depend on how much current your lights draw. Remember that this single wire has to support both lights. I recommend going at least one size larger than the chart I provide recommends for a good safety margin.
Pin 87A (if your relay has one) is unused.
Pin 87 goes directly to your lights.
Now, here is where your own judgment goes into play. There's multiple configurations for this area.
The first, and easiest, way is to simply connect pin 86 to constant hot (any source will suffice) and 85 to ground, placing the switch to interrupt either 86 or 85. Doesn't matter.
Second, and the way I recommend, is to connect pin 86 to a wire that's hot when the dash lights (and subsequently) the parking lights are on. This is factory configuration. Pin 85 again connects to ground. The switch can be placed on either 86 or 85, although my preference is 85.
Of course, if you choose to use the OEM switch, it will need a connection to the dash light circuit. Easiest place to get this for both the relay and the switch is at the heater control panel. There's a two pin connector with both power and ground, which can be tagged into.
The advantage to doing it this way, is that the lights can't stay on by accident and drain your battery, and always come on with your park lights, which could work as driving lights.
If you want them to come on with the key regardless of the light switch status, simply connect pin 86 to a key hot power source, which can be found at the radio.
Last edited by TheArcticWolf1911; 02-07-2017 at 09:57 AM.
#5
02-07-2017
For the foglight switch (information obtained from the 2000 year model service manual)....
Light blue / red connects to instrument illumination.
black wire is ground, as expected. Rule of thumb, black is ground; athough not always true.
light blue / black is the switch input. +12 volts connects here.
Tan / orange is the switch output. This wire would connect to pin 86 of the relay.
It's important that the light blue / black and tan / orange are hooked the right way around for the indicator light to function. The light is an LED, which only works one way around. the switch itself should still work, but you won't have any indication light.
Also, if it helps, it's listed here that the fog lights have a 20 amp fuse.
Light blue / red connects to instrument illumination.
black wire is ground, as expected. Rule of thumb, black is ground; athough not always true.
light blue / black is the switch input. +12 volts connects here.
Tan / orange is the switch output. This wire would connect to pin 86 of the relay.
It's important that the light blue / black and tan / orange are hooked the right way around for the indicator light to function. The light is an LED, which only works one way around. the switch itself should still work, but you won't have any indication light.
Also, if it helps, it's listed here that the fog lights have a 20 amp fuse.
#6
02-10-2017
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Hamilton, Mississippi
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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Fog lights
If you have the switch in the dash, I would assume that you have the harness for the lights.
If you have 4WABS, follow the cable coming from the wheel hub and bearing assembly to it's connector. There should be either en empty, circular, 4 pin socket OR an unused cable hanging.
If you don't have 4wabs, it'll be in the same place, just a little more difficult to find.
Slide under and look up around the bumper area. There will be (should be) at least one plug on each side, same description as before.
Here's a photograph. The orange piece you see is the turn signal, for point of reference.
https://i.imgur.com/THNCJwo.jpg
If you do not see this, then that means you are not completely prewired for fog lights. In which case, dont' bother trying to tap in where Ford left off. I'll try and find the switch pinout (oem switch) if you wish to utilize it in a custom harness that you'll have to run yourself.
For that you will need a relay, a switch, and an inline fuse tap. I recommend a set of plugs so you can remove the lights easily.
If a custom harness is to be wired, pin 30 should go directly to the positive terminal of the battery. What size wire you use will depend on how much current your lights draw. Remember that this single wire has to support both lights. I recommend going at least one size larger than the chart I provide recommends for a good safety margin.
Pin 87A (if your relay has one) is unused.
Pin 87 goes directly to your lights.
Now, here is where your own judgment goes into play. There's multiple configurations for this area.
The first, and easiest, way is to simply connect pin 86 to constant hot (any source will suffice) and 85 to ground, placing the switch to interrupt either 86 or 85. Doesn't matter.
Second, and the way I recommend, is to connect pin 86 to a wire that's hot when the dash lights (and subsequently) the parking lights are on. This is factory configuration. Pin 85 again connects to ground. The switch can be placed on either 86 or 85, although my preference is 85.
Of course, if you choose to use the OEM switch, it will need a connection to the dash light circuit. Easiest place to get this for both the relay and the switch is at the heater control panel. There's a two pin connector with both power and ground, which can be tagged into.
The advantage to doing it this way, is that the lights can't stay on by accident and drain your battery, and always come on with your park lights, which could work as driving lights.
If you want them to come on with the key regardless of the light switch status, simply connect pin 86 to a key hot power source, which can be found at the radio.
If you have 4WABS, follow the cable coming from the wheel hub and bearing assembly to it's connector. There should be either en empty, circular, 4 pin socket OR an unused cable hanging.
If you don't have 4wabs, it'll be in the same place, just a little more difficult to find.
Slide under and look up around the bumper area. There will be (should be) at least one plug on each side, same description as before.
Here's a photograph. The orange piece you see is the turn signal, for point of reference.
https://i.imgur.com/THNCJwo.jpg
If you do not see this, then that means you are not completely prewired for fog lights. In which case, dont' bother trying to tap in where Ford left off. I'll try and find the switch pinout (oem switch) if you wish to utilize it in a custom harness that you'll have to run yourself.
For that you will need a relay, a switch, and an inline fuse tap. I recommend a set of plugs so you can remove the lights easily.
If a custom harness is to be wired, pin 30 should go directly to the positive terminal of the battery. What size wire you use will depend on how much current your lights draw. Remember that this single wire has to support both lights. I recommend going at least one size larger than the chart I provide recommends for a good safety margin.
Pin 87A (if your relay has one) is unused.
Pin 87 goes directly to your lights.
Now, here is where your own judgment goes into play. There's multiple configurations for this area.
The first, and easiest, way is to simply connect pin 86 to constant hot (any source will suffice) and 85 to ground, placing the switch to interrupt either 86 or 85. Doesn't matter.
Second, and the way I recommend, is to connect pin 86 to a wire that's hot when the dash lights (and subsequently) the parking lights are on. This is factory configuration. Pin 85 again connects to ground. The switch can be placed on either 86 or 85, although my preference is 85.
Of course, if you choose to use the OEM switch, it will need a connection to the dash light circuit. Easiest place to get this for both the relay and the switch is at the heater control panel. There's a two pin connector with both power and ground, which can be tagged into.
The advantage to doing it this way, is that the lights can't stay on by accident and drain your battery, and always come on with your park lights, which could work as driving lights.
If you want them to come on with the key regardless of the light switch status, simply connect pin 86 to a key hot power source, which can be found at the radio.
#7
02-11-2017
#9
02-12-2017
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