http://supercrewsound.com/image/Prod...1.moreGraphics

Ford Ranger Subwoofer Box at SuperCrewSound

imo thats the best design for our trucks
i had to custom make mine tho to get the airspace right so min is a little bigger

Personally I'd remove one jump seat and do a single decent-good 12 (Meant for SQ, not SPL) down firing & ported with 500w or so. This will allow you to keep one jump seat with some leg room and have a system that can produce ALL of the bass frequencies likely found in the tracks you listen to.

What some people might consider "enough" doesn't include the deep bass that is still very much a part of metal. The kick you FEEL in your chest from the kick drums is not in the 50Hz+ area (this is what you hear), it's below 30. IMO it isn't SQ if it doesn't approach a live performance and you and I both know even unamped drums will kick you in the chest.

Since you're keeping your stock unit, I hope you are at least upgrading the front speakers and removing the rear ones. If not, just get a bazooka tube because having a good SQ subwoofer does nothing if you've got crappy mids and highs. Also, I highly recommend getting a Sirius ready aftermarket head unit eventually because it will improve your SQ. However, if you dont want to do that at all, I'd recommend an audio processing LOC to help regain bass and treble lost via the stock unit's crappy amp. If you just want a regular old LOC skip it and find an amp that can handle 9v RCA in and use the rear speaker's signal and fade slightly to the front. By the time the stock unit's output reaches 9v in the rear the fronts will be well beyond distortion from the crappy stock amp.

I probably missed it in an earlier post but are those the 10's or 12's?

Im actually in the process of building a box and enclosure right now:

Picked up a sheet of 3/4 MDF at lowes yesterday, have about 7/8 of the box done, just putting on a last piece, then routing out the circle for the sub and getting it wrapped up and siliconed.


It is a downfiring sealed 10" w/ 425 watts, on a 5" tall stand, in total it will be 15" tall in the back, with .78 cubic feet to match the sub. Mounted behind the driver's seat as most of these are (No one wille ver use the jumpseat behidn me, so I may as well remove it)

Power will be ran up through one of the three bolt holes from the jumper seat, audio cables snaked under the carpet - and completely bolted down so no one can carry it off.. will take 2 people to secure it properly on top, and below.

I'll take some pictures once its nearly done.. jsut not in the mood to be snapping pictures every 10 minutes while Im working - takes too much tiuem away from the project ;) lol

I'm in the process of building a box for mine right now. I originally was going to mount it between the rear seats where the jack box is but after test fitting I decided it would cut down on the width of leg room for any rear passengers to much. Since the rear really isn't big enough for 2 people other than young kids I decided to ditch the seat behind me and mount the box there instead leaving an abundance of leg room for 1 rear passenger and still plenty of space for me to throw stuff in the back. I'll start a thread later with my progress so and you can see the box design.

And yea $1000 is way overkill I think I'll end up with less than $200 in mine when done but I am doing some trading, already had some stuff etc. Value wise still only sitting around $600 if I bought everything new.....for a grand I could put together a full SQ or SPL system.

one 10" is ENOUGH, but is enough ever enough? =P I have 2, the were in my ranger, and now my 150.. I went down to one while i was buliding my new box, and it just wasnt enough.

Herculiner FTW! A little dirty...

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...d4food/033.jpg

if you pay a thousand bucks for that set up you are being robbed blind there is no way a 10 and amp should cost that much