My ignition lock cylinder has been jamming of late.

Twist that steering wheel left to right and it frees up. Getting to be a real hassle.

So I took some Permatex ceramic brake grease and applied to the key and then inserted it into the cylinder and turned the key through various positions. Did that 4 times reapplying grease each time.

Then I sprayed Seamfoam penetrating lubricant into the key opening and worked my key in and out and moved the lock cylinder through all of its positions (w/o starting the truck).

The combo of Seafoam and Permatex ceramic grease eliminated the jammed ignition lock cylinder.

Take an old rag and now insert the key and turn the cylinder and then remove. Wipe your key with the rag and repeat about 5 times.

Ignition lock cylinder is back to normal without any binding.

I had tried graphite lock lubricant but it didn't work for my situation.

 

At first, the binding was eliminated, but within 2 weeks, I was back at the same point once again., Not as bad as before, but I still find myself "fiddling" with the ignition switch/key.

There are two separate issues with the binding ignition lock on a Ford Ranger.

1. The ignition lock cylinder is bad, and is easily DIY replaced at a cost of around $80-$100 on-line from a Mazda/Ford dealer.

2. There is something binding/worn in the steering column linkage separate from the ignition cylinder lock and is much, much, more expensive to repair.

I have HEAVILY lubed the lock cylinder and without removing the steering column, plastic, face plates, there remained a binding of the ignition switch.

So, I ordered a brand new, OEM, Mazda ignition switch cylinder and replaced it. However, the binding is still occurring which now points to the steering column linkage itself.

So, before you spend money replacing the ignition lock cylinder on the steering column, have a expert/mechanic look at the linkage within the steering column first.

I have at least a 75% improvement over when I bought the truck earlier this year, but I have not 100% resolved the problem.

It is NOT the ignition switch but some linkage within the steering column itself.

 

I was having a problem getting my ignition to rotate into the ACC position. This happened on a long trip off-road and continued after the trip. I sprayed silicone lube in the key hole and let it soak to dry somewhat. The problem went away and has been working well for 6 months.

 

I had a similar issue about 6 months ago. I removed the tumbler and flushed it out with electronic parts cleaner. Then I applied a liberal amount of gun oil. What caused my problem was an aftermarket key that was not thoroughly deburred.