Real Cold Air Intake!
Real Cold Air Intake!
My Dad asked me to search for cold air intakes for his new Tacoma and I stumbled upon this little gem. According to the website...underdogracing development.com this "real cold air intake" sucks in air that is 30 degree's cooler than it would be behind the radiator like most "cold airs"
Anyways, I was thinking about trying it on a Ranger...only problem would be rain and cleaning it all the time. But in the summer time it might work great...at least in Arizona.

What do you think?
Anyways, I was thinking about trying it on a Ranger...only problem would be rain and cleaning it all the time. But in the summer time it might work great...at least in Arizona.

What do you think?
youd need one of those K&n Dry wraps for sure for that because that is going to get very wet and very dirty without it...
other then that i think it would jsut be trying to find a place to run a 3" pipe through the front of the truck becuase the rad goes pretty wide
other then that i think it would jsut be trying to find a place to run a 3" pipe through the front of the truck becuase the rad goes pretty wide
Originally Posted by Werty
My Dad asked me to search for cold air intakes for his new Tacoma and I stumbled upon this little gem. According to the website...underdogracing development.com this "real cold air intake" sucks in air that is 30 degree's cooler than it would be behind the radiator like most "cold airs"
Anyways, I was thinking about trying it on a Ranger...only problem would be rain and cleaning it all the time. But in the summer time it might work great...at least in Arizona.

What do you think?
Anyways, I was thinking about trying it on a Ranger...only problem would be rain and cleaning it all the time. But in the summer time it might work great...at least in Arizona.

What do you think?
considering it isnt for a ranger, your right, it will be a little hard lol. j/k It will be a little tough tryin to get that to fit in your dads tacoma though, I think they have less room netween the grill and radiator than a ranger does. That looks like a set up for a full size dodge truck,with all the room they have between the grill and the radiator
What's the temperature difference if you had your air intake from behind the headlight to say, hood air scoops instead? I presume the air would be cooler if it came directly from hood scoops as opposed to an air intact inside the engine compartment.
Originally Posted by redranger4.0
good idea, but i think it will be hard to fit it behind a ranger grill.

i had real problems getting my tranny cooler infront of my radiator......
and there is no place to route piping to get to the front of the radiator.......
What i'd like to do is cut a hole in the hood, and put a scoop on top, directing the air directly into the engine. Goin down the road, you'll have all that air forced directly into the engine. But im not brave enough to cut a hole in my perty paint..lol....unless I found a scoop that I really liked, and could make it permenant.
actually the new tacoma's have a huge gap big enough for a full size k&n cone, but he is definetely leaning more towards a K&N FIPK
this kit requires you cut that hole where the pipe goes through...and he would never do that, especially on a 3 day old truck
nevertheless, this is a cool idea for a cold air intake
this kit requires you cut that hole where the pipe goes through...and he would never do that, especially on a 3 day old truck
nevertheless, this is a cool idea for a cold air intake
it is a neat idea, but I am like him, I dont know about cutting a hole in that new of a truck. I havent seen the new tacomas so I wouldnt knowthe space or anything but I would stick to a traditional cold air kit, I dont know if I would venture that for just for that
Originally Posted by firefighterjosh
Just run a tube from your air conditioner to your intake
JJ
JJThat system that he's talking about sounds alot like the JLT CAI that puts the maf/filter in the mustang fenderwell... but rangers dont really have that option as much... perhaps something going down and in front?
Originally Posted by 98rang
There's actually a vendor on modular fords that's designing a cooling system that will use the a/c system to really cool down the heat exchanger temps for forced induction cars.
my truck has 210HP
I turn on the AC: Now my truck has 190HP
I installed my new cold air intake that runs off my AC: So now I have 195HP
So I would loose power buying one
Originally Posted by firefighterjosh
So what your saying is this
my truck has 210HP
I turn on the AC: Now my truck has 190HP
I installed my new cold air intake that runs off my AC: So now I have 195HP
So I would loose power buying one
my truck has 210HP
I turn on the AC: Now my truck has 190HP
I installed my new cold air intake that runs off my AC: So now I have 195HP
So I would loose power buying one

http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2...hlight=chiller
"Heat is the #1 enemy of performance and safety, especially in forced induction applications. This is especially true when you continue to raise boost. Blower exit temps can be astronomical! We all know that a cooler charge into the combustion chamber will allow for the ability to run more boost and spark on a given octane. This is in addition to the fact that it adds an even greater safety margin on lower boost and spark levels. With the Killer Chiller, most everyone will experience a drop in intercooler temps of between 40 and 80+ degrees! This system can be ran full time for a constant reduction in intercooler temps, or part time for a consistent and reliable reduction in overall intercooler temps.
How does it work?
When you turn the AC on the refrigerant is forced through the chiller core. The core employs a counter-flow design, which utilizes stainless sheets stamped with a herringbone pattern of grooves, stacked in alternating directions to form separate flow channels (one channel for the refrigerant, and one for the IC fluid). This allows 90% of the chiller core to be used for heat transfer, making it extremely efficient at chilling down the IC fluid, and allowing for more boost and or timing as noted above.
Touching further, the temp of the refrigerant will be about 15-20 degrees entering the core, and the exit temp should be around 35 degrees. The refrigerant will then make its way back to the evap at about 40-45 degrees and exit at around 65 degrees, so there should be little to no condensation, but this will allow the refrigerant to go through the accumulator and protect the compressor from any moisture, and/or contaminates"
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