Best Oil for oil change
#27
Amsoil really says 25k? ****kkkk that.
I go 5k on synthetic and thats as far as i would recommend.I know Mercedes computers say 10k.
I've heard of oiled filters messing up mass air sensors.
I go 5k on synthetic and thats as far as i would recommend.I know Mercedes computers say 10k.
I've heard of oiled filters messing up mass air sensors.
#29
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I've been doing anywhere from 5000 to 7000 mile intervals with Mobil1 synthetc and 2 Motorcraft filters per cycle. Works great for me, 140k now
exactly
use your best judgment. I If you're gunning it stoplight to stoplight every day in the city grind, you're probably going to want to stick to the 3k schedule.
Also keep an eye on how your engine takes to the change. If you wait 5k miles and your old oil is looking pretty dirty, then tighten up the frequency between changes. Alternately, if you're sticking to 3k and it looks brand new, you can probably afford to loosen up a bit.
Also keep an eye on how your engine takes to the change. If you wait 5k miles and your old oil is looking pretty dirty, then tighten up the frequency between changes. Alternately, if you're sticking to 3k and it looks brand new, you can probably afford to loosen up a bit.
Last edited by gts007; 02-26-2010 at 10:04 AM.
#30
Sorry to hijack, but thought this was relevant. I normally use 10w30 even though it says to use 5w30. I have about 109,000 miles. Should I be using 5w30 instead? And is it necessary to use the high mileage oil?
I just keep it changed every 3k regardless but want to make sure I am putting the right stuff in.
I just keep it changed every 3k regardless but want to make sure I am putting the right stuff in.
#31
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everybody has an opinion. I use 10w30, have in the last 3 trucks i've owned. Im going to switch to Mobil 1 synthetic this oil change. I used Mobil 1 synthetic in the last ranger, with no problems....
I was using 6 quarts in this ranger and the last one, till I looked in the manual and seen it needs 5!! Im glad i fixed. But Synthetic is the best way to go, with a purolator pure 1 filter...
I was using 6 quarts in this ranger and the last one, till I looked in the manual and seen it needs 5!! Im glad i fixed. But Synthetic is the best way to go, with a purolator pure 1 filter...
#32
buying castrol syntec (except german syntec) over conventional is kind of pointless. Syntec is still a group 3 oil (same as dyno). If your going to spend the coin on synthetic get a group 4, RP, mobil 1, etc. mobil 1 is nice and easy to find but a couple years ago they had to back off on wear protectors so if possible get the extended performance that says its good for 15k intervals and continue on 3k services, and never use a fram filter because it puts cardboard into your motor
#33
#39
#40
#41
Motorcraft Blend 5w30 oil, Motorcraft oil filter. Cheap and made by a high end oil company.
BUT last week Advanced Auto Parts had a deal on 5 quarts of Castrol Blend and a PureOne for 19.99 so I got that. If there is no deal I get the Motorcraft.
As far as oil change intervals. I do enough oil changes a day to know that anything over 3000 miles is murder. 3000 miles or every 3 months which ever is first.
BUT last week Advanced Auto Parts had a deal on 5 quarts of Castrol Blend and a PureOne for 19.99 so I got that. If there is no deal I get the Motorcraft.
As far as oil change intervals. I do enough oil changes a day to know that anything over 3000 miles is murder. 3000 miles or every 3 months which ever is first.
Last edited by karrbass4life; 03-31-2010 at 10:46 PM.
#42
Short answer is yes. In fact if you are changing ANY good quality oil at 3k miles on a healthy engine you are wasting money. Oil chemistry has come a LONG way in the last several years but it seems the general population has yet to catch up. I use Rotella T 5W-40 with a Purolator or Motorcraft filter on a 5k OCI and the oil always looks good. I could probably push it to 6k but I think the filter would be at its limit. That's just a conventional HDEO. If you are running semi-syn or full-syn oils and not running at least 5k OCI you may as well be burning cash. There's plenty of documented studies that show synthetic oils actually get better after a few thousand miles in the sump.
#43
Advantages of Synthetic
low levels of impurities
decreases oil consumption
longer oil change
flows well in extreme conditions and during initial startups
Disadvantages
higher cost
less time under the hood
For your engine to last longer it wont be on what type of oil you use it will be on how constant you change your oil.
Try to use what ever your engine calls for.
low levels of impurities
decreases oil consumption
longer oil change
flows well in extreme conditions and during initial startups
Disadvantages
higher cost
less time under the hood
For your engine to last longer it wont be on what type of oil you use it will be on how constant you change your oil.
Try to use what ever your engine calls for.
#44
Bringing up an old thread because reading all the responses is pretty funny!
Besides my 1998 Ranger 2.5 and 1999 ranger 3.0 I also have a 2006 Dodge with the Cummins. If anyone ever wants to know how long they can or should go on an oil change just send a sample to Blackstone Labs. Blackstone-Labs and they will do a complete analysis of your oil. This is well worth the cost. I'm not too worried about the Rangers but I like to keep a close eye on the Cummins! It's the workhorse and is well maintained.
Besides my 1998 Ranger 2.5 and 1999 ranger 3.0 I also have a 2006 Dodge with the Cummins. If anyone ever wants to know how long they can or should go on an oil change just send a sample to Blackstone Labs. Blackstone-Labs and they will do a complete analysis of your oil. This is well worth the cost. I'm not too worried about the Rangers but I like to keep a close eye on the Cummins! It's the workhorse and is well maintained.
#45
Generally speaking (right there, a BIG source of inaccuracy) changing conventional (cheaper) oil too frequently is better than premium oils being changed not frequently enough.
No one wants to waste money but there's SO MUCH to know about oil it isn't funny.
Also, there's EVERYTHING to know about the conditions under which an oil is used.
Anyone can have an engine which dilutes the oil with fuel. People commonly fail to run (heat) their engines enough.
Fortunately my vehicles have been good specimens so "normal" OCIs have yielded 2 good UOAs.
My car (bought @70K) has 7,500 mile OCI. I believe this is too long for humid, hot city driving using conv. oil.
The word "synthetic" wasn't on any maint/repair receipt provided.
All I want is the stuff to do its job. Part of the job is cleanliness.
Synthetics would get my nod for lowering waxes alone.
I don't live in extreme conditions (North Pole <-> Death Valley) but we have Winter here and I like improved cold-flowing oil upon start-up.
Mobil1 came out in the '70's and was reported on heavily in Popular Science.
One encapsulation said essentially, "If you live in a temperate region, you don't need synthetics."
However, engines were about to get a lot smaller and built to tighter tolerances requiring many engines to spec synthetic lubes.
Which "everyday applications" would synthetics improve?
How often are conventional lubes completely adequate?
Turbos' high heat got me into oil.
There are even more qualifications with newer engines.
Many people are negligent with their oil so be careful buying used.
No one wants to waste money but there's SO MUCH to know about oil it isn't funny.
Also, there's EVERYTHING to know about the conditions under which an oil is used.
Anyone can have an engine which dilutes the oil with fuel. People commonly fail to run (heat) their engines enough.
Fortunately my vehicles have been good specimens so "normal" OCIs have yielded 2 good UOAs.
My car (bought @70K) has 7,500 mile OCI. I believe this is too long for humid, hot city driving using conv. oil.
The word "synthetic" wasn't on any maint/repair receipt provided.
All I want is the stuff to do its job. Part of the job is cleanliness.
Synthetics would get my nod for lowering waxes alone.
I don't live in extreme conditions (North Pole <-> Death Valley) but we have Winter here and I like improved cold-flowing oil upon start-up.
Mobil1 came out in the '70's and was reported on heavily in Popular Science.
One encapsulation said essentially, "If you live in a temperate region, you don't need synthetics."
However, engines were about to get a lot smaller and built to tighter tolerances requiring many engines to spec synthetic lubes.
Which "everyday applications" would synthetics improve?
How often are conventional lubes completely adequate?
Turbos' high heat got me into oil.
There are even more qualifications with newer engines.
Many people are negligent with their oil so be careful buying used.
Last edited by Georgeandkira; 01-27-2020 at 09:03 AM.
#46
Generally speaking (right there, a BIG source of inaccuracy) changing conventional (cheaper) oil too frequently is better than premium oils being changed not frequently enough.
No one wants to waste money but there's SO MUCH to know about oil it isn't funny.
Also, there's EVERYTHING to know about the conditions under which an oil is used.
Anyone can have an engine which dilutes the oil with fuel. People commonly fail to run (heat) their engines enough.
Fortunately my vehicles have been good specimens so "normal" OCIs have yielded 2 good UOAs.
My car (bought @70K) has 7,500 mile OCI. I believe this is too long for humid, hot city driving using conv. oil.
The word "synthetic" wasn't on any maint/repair receipt provided.
All I want is the stuff to do its job. Part of the job is cleanliness.
Synthetics would get my nod for lowering waxes alone.
I don't live in extreme conditions (North Pole <-> Death Valley) but we have Winter here and I like improved cold-flowing oil upon start-up.
Mobil1 came out in the '70's and was reported on heavily in Popular Science.
One encapsulation said essentially, "If you live in a temperate region, you don't need synthetics."
However, engines were about to get a lot smaller and built to tighter tolerances requiring many engines to spec synthetic lubes.
Which "everyday applications" would synthetics improve?
How often are conventional lubes completely adequate?
Turbos' high heat got me into oil.
There are even more qualifications with newer engines.
Many people are negligent with their oil so be careful buying used.
No one wants to waste money but there's SO MUCH to know about oil it isn't funny.
Also, there's EVERYTHING to know about the conditions under which an oil is used.
Anyone can have an engine which dilutes the oil with fuel. People commonly fail to run (heat) their engines enough.
Fortunately my vehicles have been good specimens so "normal" OCIs have yielded 2 good UOAs.
My car (bought @70K) has 7,500 mile OCI. I believe this is too long for humid, hot city driving using conv. oil.
The word "synthetic" wasn't on any maint/repair receipt provided.
All I want is the stuff to do its job. Part of the job is cleanliness.
Synthetics would get my nod for lowering waxes alone.
I don't live in extreme conditions (North Pole <-> Death Valley) but we have Winter here and I like improved cold-flowing oil upon start-up.
Mobil1 came out in the '70's and was reported on heavily in Popular Science.
One encapsulation said essentially, "If you live in a temperate region, you don't need synthetics."
However, engines were about to get a lot smaller and built to tighter tolerances requiring many engines to spec synthetic lubes.
Which "everyday applications" would synthetics improve?
How often are conventional lubes completely adequate?
Turbos' high heat got me into oil.
There are even more qualifications with newer engines.
Many people are negligent with their oil so be careful buying used.
#47
Bumping this thread back to life! I recently bought a '93 Ranger V6 3.0, 4x4 with 126,000 original miles. Truck runs well, about to do my first oil change on it. I purchased full synthetic oil at Costco, have no idea what the recommended interval change should be, suggestions? I assume switching from conventional oil to full synthetic is ok ?
#48
From what I have found researching this same topic as I am also doing my first oil change on a 2011 2.3 Ranger, the interval, mileage or time, is probably based on the oil filter. Synth oil has a Synth filter assigned to the task, Dino oil another. One dino oil filter for example only is fl910 while the synth version is fl910S. I'd research it further for your application. I was lucky, when I found a factory owners manual in the glove box. Of course there are a myrid of factory numbers (updated) from the oil filter mgfr. and the Ford factory listed filter as well on the web. The book narrows it down pretty good.
Weather one use time or mileage is another topic it seems, so you may have opened up the proverbial can if there's any interest.
Weather one use time or mileage is another topic it seems, so you may have opened up the proverbial can if there's any interest.
Last edited by OLDUDE; 08-03-2020 at 09:17 AM.
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ecoleman (08-02-2020)
#49
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
2010, yes an old Thread.
When I purchased my 2003 3.0 EDGE, it had 24K miles... almost new right but five years old.
I switched to Mobile 1, I noticed a quieter motor, and maybe... a little difference in the feel of the truck.
My Mobile 1 intervals then and 12 year later are the same:
1) Change the oil and filter.
2) 3000 miles change the filter, add oil as needed.
3) 6000 miles change oil and filter.
4) Repeat
The most important part of the whole oil change things IS... REPEAT !
With Dino Oil, I used to do the 2000 mile Oil/Filter changes, faithfully. I can't say if it was better than 3000 miles or even 6000 mile Synth Oil changes but the important thing is to do it and do it on a regular basis !
AND... if you drive short distances, more than longer distances, the best thing is change the oil more often. If you drive long distances everyday you can stretch the intervals... unless you live in a dusty area... like SoCal.
Reasoning, driving short distances never gets the oil to a temperature that allow the gas/vapors in the oil to evaporate and let the oil do its thing, the gas/vapors dilute the oil, decreasing the efficiency of it lubricating ability.
Short distance driving, more oil changes, easy right, but no matter the distance you drive the big thing is... Change The Oil and Filter.
On a side note, don't forget the Air Filter.
When I purchased my 2003 3.0 EDGE, it had 24K miles... almost new right but five years old.
I switched to Mobile 1, I noticed a quieter motor, and maybe... a little difference in the feel of the truck.
My Mobile 1 intervals then and 12 year later are the same:
1) Change the oil and filter.
2) 3000 miles change the filter, add oil as needed.
3) 6000 miles change oil and filter.
4) Repeat
The most important part of the whole oil change things IS... REPEAT !
With Dino Oil, I used to do the 2000 mile Oil/Filter changes, faithfully. I can't say if it was better than 3000 miles or even 6000 mile Synth Oil changes but the important thing is to do it and do it on a regular basis !
AND... if you drive short distances, more than longer distances, the best thing is change the oil more often. If you drive long distances everyday you can stretch the intervals... unless you live in a dusty area... like SoCal.
Reasoning, driving short distances never gets the oil to a temperature that allow the gas/vapors in the oil to evaporate and let the oil do its thing, the gas/vapors dilute the oil, decreasing the efficiency of it lubricating ability.
Short distance driving, more oil changes, easy right, but no matter the distance you drive the big thing is... Change The Oil and Filter.
On a side note, don't forget the Air Filter.
Last edited by Scrambler82; 08-02-2020 at 09:16 PM.
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