00GreenRanger's rig
#1
10-12-2018
00GreenRanger's rig
Figured I'd make a thread that had everything in it.
Specs on the truck: 2000 Ford Ranger, 4.0 OHV, auto trans, 125k.
Picked up the truck in 2009 and did little mods here and there. Protech headache rack, sound system, trail gear rock sliders, trail gear front bumper, HID headlights...
Have had 3 sets of tires so far: 31x10.5r15 maxxis bighorns, 32x11.5 bfg ko2's, and now I'm running 33x12.5r15 bfg km2's.
Had some 15x8 American Racing Outlaw 2's for a while and now I'm running 15x10 pro comp 252's.
Installed a superlift about a month or so ago with a rough country drive shaft. Did a tough country AAL and beltech 6400 shackles to lift the rear.
Onto the pics:
About 3 years ago when I put the front bumper on
Got an itch the switch up the front bumper
Next came the lift
And then I lifted the rear. No pics of the work as it was pretty fast.
Found out that the exhaust was rotted out when I did the rear so I made a new one (stick welding exhaust is a PITA btw... I'll tell ya that for free)
Tires and wheels came next
And a look at what I'm working on next
Specs on the truck: 2000 Ford Ranger, 4.0 OHV, auto trans, 125k.
Picked up the truck in 2009 and did little mods here and there. Protech headache rack, sound system, trail gear rock sliders, trail gear front bumper, HID headlights...
Have had 3 sets of tires so far: 31x10.5r15 maxxis bighorns, 32x11.5 bfg ko2's, and now I'm running 33x12.5r15 bfg km2's.
Had some 15x8 American Racing Outlaw 2's for a while and now I'm running 15x10 pro comp 252's.
Installed a superlift about a month or so ago with a rough country drive shaft. Did a tough country AAL and beltech 6400 shackles to lift the rear.
Onto the pics:
About 3 years ago when I put the front bumper on
Got an itch the switch up the front bumper
Next came the lift
And then I lifted the rear. No pics of the work as it was pretty fast.
Found out that the exhaust was rotted out when I did the rear so I made a new one (stick welding exhaust is a PITA btw... I'll tell ya that for free)
Tires and wheels came next
And a look at what I'm working on next
Last edited by 00GreenRanger; 10-13-2018 at 11:38 PM.
#2
10-13-2018
#3
10-13-2018
#4
10-13-2018
#6
10-13-2018
#7
10-13-2018
When I replaced the used one I originally had with a brand new one, I used a couple of universal joints, 1/4 inch drive. Did the same when I installed the one in Jacob's truck. Works much better that way.
His swap will be so much easier. -.-
#8
10-13-2018
The first time I did it, 1/4" drive shallow sockets and hand cramps. Lots and lots of hand cramps. lol.
When I replaced the used one I originally had with a brand new one, I used a couple of universal joints, 1/4 inch drive. Did the same when I installed the one in Jacob's truck. Works much better that way.
His swap will be so much easier. -.-
When I replaced the used one I originally had with a brand new one, I used a couple of universal joints, 1/4 inch drive. Did the same when I installed the one in Jacob's truck. Works much better that way.
His swap will be so much easier. -.-
How will mine be easier?
#9
10-13-2018
It will be easier because your truck's dash harness was pre-wired to run an automatic or manual transmission. 2003 was the first year in which the dash harness was different for automatic versus manual. Not only that, but 2001+ 4x2 trucks use an output shaft speed sensor that is attached to the tailhousing. This means that I couldn't use a transmission older than 2001. Your truck is also older, which naturally means it is easier to find parts for, plus it's 4x4 so you can use the same rear driveshaft. The 4x2 trucks use different driveshafts since the automatic transmissions are longer in length than the manual.
I could go on, but those were all things that I had to fight. The majority of my parts had to come from a single donor truck. I got lucky and found a guy who was willing to trade me the manual parts for my automatic parts once I finished the swap. The only things that I bought locally were the transmission and the original pedal assembly. Everything else came from Kentucky.
#10
10-13-2018
You're welcome.
It will be easier because your truck's dash harness was pre-wired to run an automatic or manual transmission. 2003 was the first year in which the dash harness was different for automatic versus manual. Not only that, but 2001+ 4x2 trucks use an output shaft speed sensor that is attached to the tailhousing. This means that I couldn't use a transmission older than 2001. Your truck is also older, which naturally means it is easier to find parts for, plus it's 4x4 so you can use the same rear driveshaft. The 4x2 trucks use different driveshafts since the automatic transmissions are longer in length than the manual.
I could go on, but those were all things that I had to fight. The majority of my parts had to come from a single donor truck. I got lucky and found a guy who was willing to trade me the manual parts for my automatic parts once I finished the swap. The only things that I bought locally were the transmission and the original pedal assembly. Everything else came from Kentucky.
It will be easier because your truck's dash harness was pre-wired to run an automatic or manual transmission. 2003 was the first year in which the dash harness was different for automatic versus manual. Not only that, but 2001+ 4x2 trucks use an output shaft speed sensor that is attached to the tailhousing. This means that I couldn't use a transmission older than 2001. Your truck is also older, which naturally means it is easier to find parts for, plus it's 4x4 so you can use the same rear driveshaft. The 4x2 trucks use different driveshafts since the automatic transmissions are longer in length than the manual.
I could go on, but those were all things that I had to fight. The majority of my parts had to come from a single donor truck. I got lucky and found a guy who was willing to trade me the manual parts for my automatic parts once I finished the swap. The only things that I bought locally were the transmission and the original pedal assembly. Everything else came from Kentucky.
#11
10-13-2018
Ahhh yes. The only real wiring that I absolutely have to do is for the reverse lights I believe. I'm wondering if I can just pick up a PCM for a manual truck with the wiring harness and swap it in without issues.. or modify the auto harness. Not sure on that yet.. Need to look into it more
#12
10-13-2018
PCM and wiring harness is the way to go if you can source a PCM that matches your truck (2000 4.0, EGR or non EGR, etc.). The wiring harness would make it completely plug and play and you wouldn't have to do any wiring. That's the way I did it with my truck and it started right up on the first try. Only reason I had to wire anything in was because my truck didn't come with the clutch safety switch harness, and I wanted it as a safety measure and for originality. Plus I wasn't sure just how differently my dash harness was wired from a manual trans truck so I just went with the switch route to be sure it would start.
#13
10-14-2018
#14
10-14-2018
If I can't source a PCM and harness right away I plan to just put the auto shifter in neutral and wire in the reverse lights to the auto harness. Once I get my hands on a PCM/harness I'll swap that in. Does the PCM have to match the year? If so, I bet I could pull one from a 98 or 99 with a 4.0 OHV/no egr and get ford to flash it to a 2000.
You want to keep the PCM as close as possible, especially since you have no idea what Ford might have changed between years. But 98-2000 shouldn't be terrible. Do you have Securilock (PATS) on your truck?
#15
10-14-2018
That will work, however the truck will be limited to 3,000 rpms. It doesn't sound like a problem, but shifting at a 3,000 rpm rev limit sucks big time.
You want to keep the PCM as close as possible, especially since you have no idea what Ford might have changed between years. But 98-2000 shouldn't be terrible. Do you have Securilock (PATS) on your truck?
You want to keep the PCM as close as possible, especially since you have no idea what Ford might have changed between years. But 98-2000 shouldn't be terrible. Do you have Securilock (PATS) on your truck?
#16
10-14-2018
If you have some kind of Securilock setup on the truck, that may add a bit of difficulty when swapping computers around. On my truck, the PATS module was part of the computer, but older trucks had a separate PATS module somewhere in the dash. The PATS transceiver mounted on the ignition cylinder communicates with the PATS module. Since mine was part of the computer, I had to get the keys, transceiver, and computer from the same truck. Otherwise, you have to take the truck to Ford and have them marry the PATS system, and at this point, who knows if they'll even be able to do it with the age of the truck.
#17
10-14-2018
Hmm, it should have a rev limiter in both. But once the computer senses that there's no input from the solenoids, maybe that will cause it to have a rev limit. I guess you'll have to see. lol.
If you have some kind of Securilock setup on the truck, that may add a bit of difficulty when swapping computers around. On my truck, the PATS module was part of the computer, but older trucks had a separate PATS module somewhere in the dash. The PATS transceiver mounted on the ignition cylinder communicates with the PATS module. Since mine was part of the computer, I had to get the keys, transceiver, and computer from the same truck. Otherwise, you have to take the truck to Ford and have them marry the PATS system, and at this point, who knows if they'll even be able to do it with the age of the truck.
If you have some kind of Securilock setup on the truck, that may add a bit of difficulty when swapping computers around. On my truck, the PATS module was part of the computer, but older trucks had a separate PATS module somewhere in the dash. The PATS transceiver mounted on the ignition cylinder communicates with the PATS module. Since mine was part of the computer, I had to get the keys, transceiver, and computer from the same truck. Otherwise, you have to take the truck to Ford and have them marry the PATS system, and at this point, who knows if they'll even be able to do it with the age of the truck.
Here is what I'm seeing for PATS: http://www.vintrack.com/2013%20Trans...on%20CHART.pdf
#18
10-14-2018
Well that's good then. Drivability won't be terrible that way.
Looks like you definitely have Securilock. How to work around it on a 2000 is something I'm unsure of. I think there's an actual PATS module mounted near the glovebox, or maybe it's near (or part of) the GEM module. You'll have to look into that and see what you'll need to do. They key to making PATS work is to make sure you keep everything matched together.
Looks like you definitely have Securilock. How to work around it on a 2000 is something I'm unsure of. I think there's an actual PATS module mounted near the glovebox, or maybe it's near (or part of) the GEM module. You'll have to look into that and see what you'll need to do. They key to making PATS work is to make sure you keep everything matched together.
#19
10-14-2018
Well that's good then. Drivability won't be terrible that way.
Looks like you definitely have Securilock. How to work around it on a 2000 is something I'm unsure of. I think there's an actual PATS module mounted near the glovebox, or maybe it's near (or part of) the GEM module. You'll have to look into that and see what you'll need to do. They key to making PATS work is to make sure you keep everything matched together.
Looks like you definitely have Securilock. How to work around it on a 2000 is something I'm unsure of. I think there's an actual PATS module mounted near the glovebox, or maybe it's near (or part of) the GEM module. You'll have to look into that and see what you'll need to do. They key to making PATS work is to make sure you keep everything matched together.
#21
10-16-2018
#22
10-22-2018
#24
10-23-2018
#25
10-23-2018
