034x4 Solid Axle Swap Thread - Page 6 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Project Logs For detailed builds specific to the Ford Ranger, one thread per vehicle please.

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  #126  
Old 10-10-2005
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dang JEy looks like its comin slowly but awsome..

i think its halirious that your doin all this work and you still got one hella..lol
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  #127  
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I got real stuff i need to spend money on, why would I buy more fogs for a truck that I can't drive?

Thats just probably the very last thing I will ever do something about during this swap.
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  #128  
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Thanks alot man, hopefully by the time my springs get here, i'll have the steering almost done. Finally got my welder setup right and its welding on cast with nickel rod nice now. Whenever gil lets me know the price i'll get my steering shaft on the way. Mount my box, measure and order my steering linkage and pitman arm from Parts Mike. Weld on the knuckles, assembly the front end, and all i'll need is brake lines and shocks
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  #129  
Old 10-10-2005
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what kinda shocks u planning on running?
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  #130  
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now what would be the difference in difficulty between doing a SAS and starting with a 4x2 and building it up to a SA 4x4?
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  #131  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigolbubba
now what would be the difference in difficulty between doing a SAS and starting with a 4x2 and building it up to a SA 4x4?
You have to buy a new transmission, buy a transfercase, tranny wiring harness for the t-case, new ecu to control t-case. New rear driveshaft. Other than that, it would be the same.

Probably some BBCS nitrogen shocks.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...&cat=64&page=1
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  #132  
Old 10-11-2005
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or just get a 4x4 to start with...

Looks good Jey...after its all done we gotta plan a GA/SC meet..i diein to see this thing
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  #133  
Old 10-11-2005
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u should just toss in a pair of kings in there instead :) they look better to!!
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  #134  
Old 10-11-2005
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Buy some for me and i'll throw 'em in there.
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  #135  
Old 10-12-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 034x4
tranny wiring harness for the t-case, new ecu to control t-case.
Why not go w/ a manual t-case. Are you converting to a manual t-case?
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  #136  
Old 10-12-2005
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eventually, if i can get an adapter, the new nvg241or. 4:1, SYE, comes in the rubicon.
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  #137  
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Would a manual case out of an earlier Ranger swap? They're all BW1350's.. surely there's a way to fabricate an adapter for a manual shift 1350. Or maybe even locate an LII case. W/ all the work you're already doing, I'm surprised that's not worth it..
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  #138  
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The nvg241or is already 4:1 reduction, factory cases are only around 2.3-2.6. The 241 is physically bigger and stronger than t-cases that come in heavy duty dodges.

I don't see why i would do the work for a manual t-case when it has the same low-range as my electronic shift t-case that I already have...
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  #139  
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jey, if you swap your 1351E for a 1351M at a JY the difference will come out to a couple hundred dollars. then buy the doubler made for those t-cases and you have a 6:1 crawl ratio and twin sticks...

Irather have that than a rubi setup...

especially since you got a pee on jeep sticker...
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  #140  
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For reliability I would think. Like I said, just seems like while yer at it.. I dunno, is it really that tuff to mate an older manual '1350 to a newer truck? I've seen it done w/ ~98-200 era trucks.
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  #141  
Old 10-12-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUPERGILDO
jey, if you swap your 1351E for a 1351M at a JY the difference will come out to a couple hundred dollars. then buy the doubler made for those t-cases and you have a 6:1 crawl ratio and twin sticks...

Irather have that than a rubi setup...

especially since you got a pee on jeep sticker...
How exactly would that work? Does one stick control the front wheels and one control the back?
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  #142  
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One stick controls the doubler.. which is kinda like a pre-t-case t-case. When you put that case in low AND the main t-case in low, then you're in super low..

The other stick controls the main t-case as usual.
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  #143  
Old 10-12-2005
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Ohh, ok. So it's like you have 2d, 4wd hi, 4wd lo, and 4wd really lo? That's kinda cool! with a 6:1 crawl ratio in really lo, that'd be like a 30-sumthin to 1 ratio right?

*hears axles exploding in the background*
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  #144  
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..and 2Lo (doubler in low, main t-case in 2Hi).

And I think your axles would love that low a ratio. It's your engine that might get cranky.. or revy in this instance!
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  #145  
Old 10-12-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHBubba
Would a manual case out of an earlier Ranger swap? They're all BW1350's.. surely there's a way to fabricate an adapter for a manual shift 1350. Or maybe even locate an LII case. W/ all the work you're already doing, I'm surprised that's not worth it..

they make a manual BW 1354 that will bolt right up in place of our tcases. just remove the plate in our floor and the shifter comes right threw. the only problem is they are hard to find specially with the shifter included.
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  #146  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHBubba
..and 2Lo (doubler in low, main t-case in 2Hi).

And I think your axles would love that low a ratio. It's your engine that might get cranky.. or revy in this instance!
Wow that's somethin' else! I may do that then whenever I figure out how to SAS my truck. Sounds like fun. Does it still have shift on the fly capability and everything?
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  #147  
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You can't "shift on the fly" with a manual t-case, at least i wouldn't.

The electronic t-case synchronizes the shift into 4wd, "on the fly".

The doubler is a good idea. It's something i wouldn't do until i got it driving. Then i'd mess with it.
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  #148  
Old 10-13-2005
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The -1350 in our trucks is most certianly a shift on the fly t-case, in either electronic or manual formats. You can go between 2 and 4WD at will. However there is a high probablity of damage if your front and rear axles are spinning at different rates, ie you're already stuck on mud/ice w/ no traction and spinning the rear wheels w/ excessive throttle. However if you are rolling at a 'normal' speed, it shouldn't be any trouble at all. I do it all the time.

What you can't do on the fly is shift ratios. You cannot go from 4Hi to 4Lo w/o being at a complete stop. W/ the manual t-case you probably can do it physically, but it is highly frowned on as it will likely cause damage.

Everything I've read on doublers says that they are basically modified t-cases. If that's the case, I'm willing to bet that they too cannot be shifted on the fly, as all you're interested in w/ a doubler is to shift ratios..
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  #149  
Old 10-13-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonsterGuy
u should just toss in a pair of kings in there instead :) they look better to!!
Because everyone knows buying shocks based on looks and not performance is the best idea EVER!!!


As per the T-Case discussion, the owner of Marlin Crawler (Custom Toyota stuff) has 3 on his offroad rig. I think his low range is like 1047:1
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  #150  
Old 10-13-2005
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I'm going to go with this doubler from T and M.

http://www.tandmoffroadproducts.com/

It'll give me a 6.25:1 low-range.

Yes a doubler is just another t-case, with the front output side of the case, cut off. So it more or less becomes a reduction box.
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