08' ranger SAS build up - Page 4 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #76  
Old 01-27-2010
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You should be able to find a set of u-joint shafts fairly cheap at a junkyard or a Jeep forum.

$200ea for hubs!?! Yikes.
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  #77  
Old 01-27-2010
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what you do is go to autozone, get the $90 valucrap hubs with a 90 day warranty.. then mess up your current ones and exchange them under warranty. bam spare unit bearings (that tend to fail quite often anyways) I hope your $200 hubs have a lifetime warranty. MY buddies ZJ eats those things up and he's only on 32s.

what brand were the ball joints? I know the Moogs for my D44 were pricey but i don't remember them being that expensive.
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  #78  
Old 01-27-2010
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i dont have a clue on the brand, but they were defeniately a quality piece. and as for hubs i went for quality models, thats a pretty decent price for what they are. this truck isnt going to be beat up to bad, so i imagine they will last for a while. i got the ball joints removed tonight for some rediculous labour fee, and now im preparing the housing for blasting. the mechanic is looking for ball joint replacements for me, so ill see if i get a better price. but if he charges me as much as he did to remove them then ill defeniately press them in myself lol.
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  #79  
Old 01-27-2010
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he is in canada. i live in detroit and am a commercial account manager at a auto parts store and i get canadian people all the time coming over to buy there auto parts just because it is so much cheaper. Its redicolus!!!
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  #80  
Old 01-27-2010
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hope all the bearing you pulled got replaced with new. cause you know, anytime you pull a bearing it becomes a "weeeeee" bearing, meaning thats the sound it makes flying into the garbage can.
the chipping on the planet gears is most likely a result of something either stuck in the internal gear or the sun gear. possibly a result of shifting while in motion, but that would result in damage on the edges of the teeth. if i where you, i would replace them as well. a damaged gear is just going to cause more problems.

hey, but it looks like its coming along nicely, good luck! look forward to seeing it done.
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  #81  
Old 01-27-2010
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yea everything that is replacable was replaced. it will act just about new when its done, lol

a shot from earlier today, finished the grind, and heres what will be going out tomorrow, minus the rotors, the brakes look very new but the calipers are done.

for prep. of the axle i used a thin walled tube steel that was approximately the same diameter of the inner tube seals. i inserted the tube between the seals to close off the openings on the inner tubes for blasting, i also plugged the pinion seal with a similar diameter piece of stock lying around work. i masked the axles where the seals seat on the shaft to maintain a good seal later during assembly.

edit: i decided to remove the u joints from the shafts so they have a better time blasting them, does anyone have a clue what they are? a splicer 260 or 297 they look pretty good in size,
Attached Thumbnails
08' ranger SAS build up-003.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-004.jpg  

Last edited by 08rangerdan; 01-28-2010 at 04:18 PM.
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  #82  
Old 01-28-2010
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well my luck just keeps on coming, it turns out the stock shaft u joints are bigger then i imagined, they are the large d44 style 297 spicer joint. so i picked up a couple to replace what was in there. these were about $40 each and have a lifetime warranty. these new joints also have alot more meat in the center, which should be good.
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  #83  
Old 01-28-2010
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Awesome dude! Why did you cut off all of the mounts though?
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  #84  
Old 01-28-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08rangerdan View Post
well my luck just keeps on coming, it turns out the stock shaft u joints are bigger then i imagined, they are the large d44 style 297 spicer joint. so i picked up a couple to replace what was in there. these were about $40 each and have a lifetime warranty. these new joints also have alot more meat in the center, which should be good.
and they're still tiny, D30s and 44s have the same size.. but you can get a bigger i *think* 760x ujoint which is much stronger.
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  #85  
Old 01-28-2010
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if i chose to do coils i will use all custom links and mounts because i like pretty things lol. the old stuff was really rusty and some parts were very corroded and unsalvagable in my opinion. im still looking at doing leafs up front though,, so i just wiped it clean for a fresh start on whatever i decide.

i just ran back to check 'parts source' (where i bought the u joints) to check on a price for the ball joints. i ended up buying lifetime warranty $70 uppers and $80 lowers. my money grabbing mechanic called me at lunch today about his offer on joints, he wanted $150 per corner! no way! and atleast i beat car quest on their part price also at $90 a corner.

my parts collection is adding up! once my housing is done at the blasters tomorow. ill be epoxy priming the bare steel on monday or tuesday, and ill be replacing all the seals, bearings, and ill do a regear for probably 4.56 to a 4.88 on the stock center diff. i will leave the front an open diff because i decided i have no use for a locker up front at this time plus i dont feel its a strong enough axle to have a locker in.
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Last edited by 08rangerdan; 01-28-2010 at 06:42 PM.
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  #86  
Old 01-28-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99ranger4x4 View Post
and they're still tiny, D30s and 44s have the same size.. but you can get a bigger i *think* 760x ujoint which is much stronger.
i heard all d30 jeep axles before 1995 were 260x joints and i assumed i had just that. i was just surprised when i came up with what i had. the d30 is a tiny little unit in every other spot, but for now i plan on keeping most of the wheels on the ground so it should keep me happy
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  #87  
Old 01-31-2010
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i got the axle housing and shafts back from sanding, its defeniately nice to start wish fresh metal. i also picked up calipers and rotors on saturday, i got the wrong pads for the calipers so i need to take those back this week. once primer comes in, ill give the axle, knuckles and shafts a heavy coat. ill then order my gears and install the core internals, and final paint and assembly soon after.

my t case install got bumped up to tomorrow (Monday) so ill be taking a day off work to make sure that goes as smoothly as possible. hopefully ill have a truck at the end of tomorrow..

my steering box, lines and pitman arm should soon be here this week, thanks to "HighRollerII"
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08' ranger SAS build up-010.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-008.jpg  
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  #88  
Old 01-31-2010
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i found a stamp on the front of the inspection cover, can anyone tell me what it means?

it reads;

10839
19339
REV1
11/22/88
Attached Thumbnails
08' ranger SAS build up-001.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-002.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-003.jpg  

Last edited by 08rangerdan; 01-31-2010 at 09:16 PM.
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  #89  
Old 01-31-2010
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looks like good progress so far!
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  #90  
Old 02-01-2010
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i got good news and bad news,

today at the trans shop everything was installed for the meat of the the conversion, including the t case and drive shaft plus all the tranny internals. it was a super busy day and i had the mechanic working non stop for 7.5 hours. finially everything started to button up and things started taking shape. around 5:30 it was officially done for the day and rolled it out, but we had a few problems,, the transmission wouldnt get into gear properly, instead you needed to get into 'drive' and pop up into '2' then back into 'drive' to move forward. reverse is really sticky and feels like its binding but it will loosen up when you sit in reverse for a while. the next problem is with the pan, it leaks like crazy. which is really wierd but its an easy fix compared to whatever is wrong with the transmission. the mechanic tried to slow the leak for the night and ill go to work in the morning and drop back at the shop tomorrow night to figure out the fix for the issue... i hope it doesnt look like a horror scene in the morning under my truck..but good thing its not my problem to fix it..ill post some cell phone pics of some conversion work today, ill take better pics when i get it all fixed up for good.

when i get the truck into gear it drives really nice and smooth, shifts are really firm too, but reverse is a complete fail in smoothness for the most part. my driveshaft was pretty close to perfect, if i had done it over i would have made it 1" longer because its stretched good at full travel.. everything else i had was simple and bolted up no issues at all. i extended the breather line for the rear axle at this time because i just noticed how short it really was. the mechanic also showed me the old clutches and i seen how burnt up they were and how worn they have gotten compared to the new parts. the total for this part of the conversion was approximately $1200 which puts me just above my budget with the cost of the case itself being $400 and the rebuild kit at $160 plus little extra costs. my original budget for the t case instal was originally $2000,, not bad..
Attached Thumbnails
08' ranger SAS build up-0201001257b.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-0201001257a.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-0201001257.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-0201001258.jpg  

Last edited by 08rangerdan; 02-01-2010 at 06:50 PM.
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  #91  
Old 02-02-2010
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well,, took the truck back to the shop tonight, they fixed the leak easy enough with the proper gasket but he had checked the valve body and cant find the problem with the pressure resistance in reverse and he cant find out why you need to bump up into '2' to get into drive. you can feel a slight forward movement while in drive but it really feels like neutral for whatever reason. i dont have a clue what would cause this issue unless possibly an adjustment in the cable.

any ideas???

i guess ill need to take another day to come in and get this figured out again..

edit:
driving it to work and back today i realized its not really back pressure in the valves. when in reverse it hesitates and is going in both directions at the same time creating resistance. in neutral it will creep forward but is unresponsive with added rpm, drive is the same forward creep. then when i engage '2' it shifts into a drivable gear but you need to bring the shifter back into 'd' to get all the gears for normal driving?! my trans shop is to busy to get me back in to find the problem so ill need to wait on them to get me in asap..

Last edited by 08rangerdan; 02-03-2010 at 06:46 PM.
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  #92  
Old 02-05-2010
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im just getting started with the rebuild of the core components now, im just trying to get my mind out of my transmission right now. the truck goes back again monday morning and hopefully it will be fixed finially.

heres a couple pictures of the axle as it sits now, instead of going the whole primer and paint scenario the boss gave me a can of POR 15 he had sitting at the shop and i went at painting the parts. i assembled the axleshafts with the new u joints and they came out fairly smooth for my first attempt with u joints. i made sure they would be ok to use and took them to a mechanic to get a second opinion on my work.
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08' ranger SAS build up-001.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-002.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-003.jpg  
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  #93  
Old 02-07-2010
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my transmission problem has slightly evolved over this weekend, now if i try to go into reverse from drive it will lock up worse then ever and not go at all, instead i need to go from drive to park then up to reverse to get reverse properly.

my steering box and lines from 'HighRollerII' came in this friday and will fit the job that i need them for. the only thing i accomplished this weekend was a bit more painting of the axle, and picked up the correct brake pads, which ended up being from a 1990 jeep...

the truck goes in the shop again tomorrow at 6:30 in the morning to hopefully fix my trans, and get on with the build up. ill probably be getting the core diff components ordered and installed this week, for now im thinking my gearing will be 4.56, im thinking of keeping 4.10 up front to match the rear but if im taking the rear end apart to put in a locker i might as well drop the ratio, but i wont drop it too much.
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08' ranger SAS build up-001.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-002.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-003.jpg   08' ranger SAS build up-004.jpg  

Last edited by 08rangerdan; 02-07-2010 at 06:53 PM.
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  #94  
Old 02-08-2010
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good news! the trans is fixed! apparently the problem was the valve body, the original was twisted some how and leaked causing pressure issues engaging gears. they replaced the unit for free with new one that apparently cost $400. problem fixed..
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  #95  
Old 02-08-2010
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Sounds good man! i can wait to see that axle under the truck!
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  #96  
Old 02-09-2010
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i spent most of the morning getting down to the bare floor of the truck and installing the shifter. overall it wasnt a horrible job, the only problems i ran into when installing it was a few hard lines in the way of the linkage mechanisms. i pushed them out of the way and protected them as best as i could with some rubber hose wraped around the steel gas line and return lines. everything else was bolt up, i get all of the shift range right down to 4 low with no issues..
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  #97  
Old 02-09-2010
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Gonna have to grind all that pretty paint off again once you attach all your brackets! lol
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  #98  
Old 02-09-2010
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lol ya, but after its all put together ill do the final paint. i just wanted to get a coat on most of it before it gets all oily and dirty
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  #99  
Old 02-09-2010
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sure gona look purdy, damn
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  #100  
Old 02-16-2010
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i just ordered a set of 4.88 gears, master install kit and new tube seals for the d30 tonight, hopefully everything might be in by monday or soon after. once the axle goes together then ill be doing up the rear axle the way i want with an electric locker, fr36 skyjacker 6" softride lift springs, and whatever required work to get that done. then it will be time to get into some modifications on the front, starting with a custom high clearance engine crossmember to replace the rack drop member.
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