Project Logs For detailed builds specific to the Ford Ranger, one thread per vehicle please.

5speedin2.3's SAS Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #176  
Old 04-09-2008
rangererv's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dearborn Michigan
Posts: 4,376
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
^^ k thanks
 
  #177  
Old 04-10-2008
99ranger4x4's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 12,198
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
NICE!!
this has to be the fastest SAS so far..

thats some beefy stuff from Ruff Stuff, i may get the shackles from them, i may not... I will be getting diff armor and those axle flip kits from him though.


Originally Posted by 2002FX4
Moving on, I don't want to come acrossed as an a**hole or be a PITA, but rather share all of my thoughts/opinions so they're out there. Of course its ultimately you're choice!
i'm doing them in the back if that makes you happy? lol


Originally Posted by 5speedin2.3
idk what we are going todo with the steering if we do SOA.

more pictures to come in a few min when i get home.
high steer

but i think i saw "budget lift" or something, so that kinda kills that idea
 

Last edited by 99ranger4x4; 04-10-2008 at 08:20 PM.
  #179  
Old 04-11-2008
deathbypsi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Temperance Mi
Posts: 677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Is there a transfercase in it yet?
 
  #180  
Old 04-11-2008
5speedin2.3's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by deathbypsi
Is there a transfercase in it yet?
lol no, i still have to get a trans, driveshafts and transfer case.
 
  #181  
Old 04-11-2008
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,044
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
looks good so far.

Mark run more than 3/4" i would at least do 1.25, 1" will work but it will flex. make sure its all at least .25" wall.
 
  #182  
Old 04-11-2008
5speedin2.3's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
thats what i was trying to tell him.
 
  #183  
Old 04-11-2008
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,044
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
I know 100% that 1" bows. That is what i have now. 1" diameter with .25" wall.

Now my new stuff at 1.5" diameter and .25 wall that wont bow.
 
  #184  
Old 04-11-2008
Prerunner-Ranger's Avatar
Level I Supporter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lancaster, CA.
Posts: 2,312
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Lookin good, wish I lived in Michigan to get help from you guys :(
 
  #185  
Old 04-11-2008
5speedin2.3's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
the tube he is talking about is only 16" long and it goes from the gear box to the tierod on the draglink, he said its 3/16ths thick.

basically its just an extension.
 
  #187  
Old 04-11-2008
5speedin2.3's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
  #188  
Old 04-11-2008
5speedin2.3's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
looks like im going to need a water pump soon..
 
  #189  
Old 04-11-2008
99ranger4x4's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 12,198
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
lol
 
  #192  
Old 04-11-2008
gumby's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: indy
Posts: 1,581
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
i need serious opinions on this please
as i told daniel on AIM, i wouldnt run that on the street.

the diameter of tubing has a far greater effect on bending strength than the wall thickness. IMO, 3/4" is too small a diameter. also considerin the ends of the original link only extend 1.5" into the tubing, and you have no plug welds, i dont see enough weld area or penetration into the solid link to make that safe.

build a new link. one LH and one RH TRE, and a piece of 1.25x.250 DOM with welded inserts should be fine, and not too expensive.
 

Last edited by gumby; 04-11-2008 at 08:28 PM.
  #193  
Old 04-11-2008
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,044
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
IMO use a new piece of DOM with some rod ends and the correct TREs on each end.

When it comes to steering and the street you really need to do it right, even if that means spending a little extra money. last thing you want to do is have it break and be liable for killing someone and possibly your self.

Take pitman arm off, fill the hole with weld and retaper that to the Jeep end. Let me see if i can find the part numbers. Rustys may sell something like that to you for around 100.
 
  #195  
Old 04-11-2008
gumby's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: indy
Posts: 1,581
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
puttin a bolt in it will not make it stronger, or prevent that peice of tubing from bending in the middle
 
  #196  
Old 04-11-2008
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,044
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
check this... it may even be the correct taper on both ends.

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...egory_Code=ste

if its tapped you both out WAIT until you get the funds to finish it.
 
  #197  
Old 04-11-2008
zainyD's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Honestly, I've seen a lot worse. I think it'll be OK until you can get something else later on.
 
  #199  
Old 04-11-2008
gumby's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: indy
Posts: 1,581
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
then why did you ask?
 


Quick Reply: 5speedin2.3's SAS Thread



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:50 PM.