DangerRanger01: Project "Little Black Edge"
#252
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
I'm not even using this head, i was just curious to see why it was like that on only two of the cylinders. It was supposedly only 109k miles….
I think i'm going to get the block checked for flatness, given most people are blowing head gaskets because they don't have a proper sealing surface.
The head is already flat, but i'm going to have him machine off as little as possible just for safety's sake.
No need to boil the block or get it hot dipped or whatever. These things are quite awesome. Most guys don't even get most stuff checked out! lol.
I think i'm going to get the block checked for flatness, given most people are blowing head gaskets because they don't have a proper sealing surface.
The head is already flat, but i'm going to have him machine off as little as possible just for safety's sake.
No need to boil the block or get it hot dipped or whatever. These things are quite awesome. Most guys don't even get most stuff checked out! lol.
The cross-hatching in the cylinders is a low mileage indicator but you already know it is only 109K.
How’s the Cylinder Ridge ?
What are you going to use for a Cam, is there a special for a sup’d up Turbo ?
Looking good won’t be long !
#253
Yeah, but the two coil packs you got to move around are FTL, lol.
Yeah, it just looks weird. Not really matters, as all i'm using is the block and crank and accessories off this engine. Pistons and rods and head with all new bearings and seals. So it'll be a rebuilt engine for sure.
No cylinder ridge at all which is good. These engines like to get them really bad on the #1 cylinder. The cross hatch usually stays really well on these engines. I'll probably just do a quick hone job and call it good for that.
For cam, i plan to run a Boport stage 1.5. These things are badass for turbo set up.
There are only a few cam choices (for street use that is). They are all spendy. While Boport doesn't give you the specs of the cams, he explains well what each one is good for. Many people have run them and like them. Its good enough for me. When i get it, it would be really easy to measure the specs of the cam, so no worries there. Its suppose to have built in advance, so set it up like a stock cam, then use an adjustable cam gear to move it around to how you like it!
Probably head out and tear down engine later today...going to the movies at noon
The plugs look as if the burn was even but the carbon looks like an old lady was driving it.
The cross-hatching in the cylinders is a low mileage indicator but you already know it is only 109K.
How’s the Cylinder Ridge ?
What are you going to use for a Cam, is there a special for a sup’d up Turbo ?
Looking good won’t be long !
The cross-hatching in the cylinders is a low mileage indicator but you already know it is only 109K.
How’s the Cylinder Ridge ?
What are you going to use for a Cam, is there a special for a sup’d up Turbo ?
Looking good won’t be long !
No cylinder ridge at all which is good. These engines like to get them really bad on the #1 cylinder. The cross hatch usually stays really well on these engines. I'll probably just do a quick hone job and call it good for that.
For cam, i plan to run a Boport stage 1.5. These things are badass for turbo set up.
There are only a few cam choices (for street use that is). They are all spendy. While Boport doesn't give you the specs of the cams, he explains well what each one is good for. Many people have run them and like them. Its good enough for me. When i get it, it would be really easy to measure the specs of the cam, so no worries there. Its suppose to have built in advance, so set it up like a stock cam, then use an adjustable cam gear to move it around to how you like it!
Probably head out and tear down engine later today...going to the movies at noon
#254
GOt it all torn down basically.
What do you guys recommend to clean it all? I'm going to pull the oil plugs and the freeze plugs, and go to town with the pressure washer and some simple clean. The water jackets had some nasty stuff in it, so i figure i should clean the **** out of it, then paint the block:
Wear on bearings:
Nasty stuff:
What do you guys recommend to clean it all? I'm going to pull the oil plugs and the freeze plugs, and go to town with the pressure washer and some simple clean. The water jackets had some nasty stuff in it, so i figure i should clean the **** out of it, then paint the block:
Wear on bearings:
Nasty stuff:
#256
#259
The part of the HOT TANK’g that is the kicker is that the Block will get hot, open up the pores of the metal and let out a lot of $hit that normally won’t get cleaned by pressure washing.
If you still do the pressure washing make sure the oil gallery (? loc) gets cleaned up really well.
If you still do the pressure washing make sure the oil gallery (? loc) gets cleaned up really well.
#260
Geez, i'ill get it hot tanked and honed at th emachine shop.
i'm going to wait until i get all my bearings and seals. Going to order them from rockauto tonight, just need to make a checklist of everything. This way, when the block gets back, i'll just pop everything into it and not worry about the flash rust happening on it. Then paint, and be done.
i'm going to wait until i get all my bearings and seals. Going to order them from rockauto tonight, just need to make a checklist of everything. This way, when the block gets back, i'll just pop everything into it and not worry about the flash rust happening on it. Then paint, and be done.
#261
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
More thoughts… if the machine shop hones it, make sure to either have them get the Rings or get the suggested size from them.
Also, take the time to do a check on the outside diameters of the crank bearing journal surface and if possible assemble the Crank Bearings and Caps without the Crank in place and mic the inside diameters and then compare the measurements for clearance; make sure it is within spec.
Some use plastic Gauges to check this out but I am old school and do the actual measurements.
ltr
Also, take the time to do a check on the outside diameters of the crank bearing journal surface and if possible assemble the Crank Bearings and Caps without the Crank in place and mic the inside diameters and then compare the measurements for clearance; make sure it is within spec.
Some use plastic Gauges to check this out but I am old school and do the actual measurements.
ltr
#262
I'd trust mics more than a plastigauge to tell you the truth.
Did some work porting the runners. Got the exhaust pretty good, jsut need to polish it and do the intake and both sets of bowls. Will get most done tomorrow, and finish up on Sunday to take it into the machien shop to get work done on Monday.
Ordered all my parts, they should all get here between Tuesday and Thursday, which is good cause I'm headed out of town Friday. And it'd suck to be away when stuff arrives.
Did some work porting the runners. Got the exhaust pretty good, jsut need to polish it and do the intake and both sets of bowls. Will get most done tomorrow, and finish up on Sunday to take it into the machien shop to get work done on Monday.
Ordered all my parts, they should all get here between Tuesday and Thursday, which is good cause I'm headed out of town Friday. And it'd suck to be away when stuff arrives.
#264
Yeah, i should definitely get the short block done for sure before i leave for school.
The head should also be done, pending it doesn't take too long at the machine shop.
It'd be bolted together, but i haven't bought the head gasket or head studs (that is another like $160 i didn't want to spend).
But i think i'm going to take a little extra on the student loans and order everything else up. I talked to my boss, and he said its so much easier to pay loans once you have a steady income....that made me re-think my plans, lol. Who cares if i spend a little more now to get everything? (Hell, with inflation, and the mark ups, it'll be cheaper to buy parts now, then in a year or two.)
The head should also be done, pending it doesn't take too long at the machine shop.
It'd be bolted together, but i haven't bought the head gasket or head studs (that is another like $160 i didn't want to spend).
But i think i'm going to take a little extra on the student loans and order everything else up. I talked to my boss, and he said its so much easier to pay loans once you have a steady income....that made me re-think my plans, lol. Who cares if i spend a little more now to get everything? (Hell, with inflation, and the mark ups, it'll be cheaper to buy parts now, then in a year or two.)
#265
#266
Dropped the head off at the machine shop, will get it back when i get back into town next week wednesday
Bottom end gasket kit:
TURBO!!!
HY-35, should be fun and lots of power.
Header too!! Today was Christmas in September!!!!
Sketchy 3in downpipe. Dam holset uses a weird 2.5inch v-band outlet, this might do.
Bottom end gasket kit:
TURBO!!!
HY-35, should be fun and lots of power.
Header too!! Today was Christmas in September!!!!
Sketchy 3in downpipe. Dam holset uses a weird 2.5inch v-band outlet, this might do.
#271