D's project.
#76
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
Honestly.. good question.
I had my Liberty5 Tranny fully rebuilt and had synchros cut for it.. That was.. like 3grand-ish?
I'm STILL doing my axle. I haven't really decided yet how its all going to setup. It will be an 8.8 with huge discs, A Detroit gear-type locker with c-clip eliminators and either 3.31 or 3.08 gears.
The engine isn't fully paid for, its a ' barter job ' of sorts. The final pricetag hasn't been set yet but.. when all is said and done, for machine work and ' freshening parts ' like berrings, rings, seats, pushrods, gaskets, dyno time and other ' parts ', that will be about.. 5 grand-ish ( maybe more.. maybe less? Who knows their 40yr friends of the family ). I provided a full motor that had about 50 track passes on it and they tore into it and made it all ' nice ' again. Its a 4bolt SBF with AFR heads and a SCAT hardened crank.
Theres 2 bundles of tubing for inside the cab that I haven't played with yet, dunno when I will, hopefully soon. I should have teh cab off the frame this week to cut out the floor pans and re-do the tranny tunnel, shifter, e-brake and other ' things '..
Cash wise.. all said and done? This time around ( which is what I should have done in the first place ) .. Probably.. 12-13 grand for parts and others services. I try to do as much as I can on my own. Having a heated facility to work on with a Mig/Tig/Stick welders, plasma cutters and a Haas machine helps reduce costs greatly.
Was a rare occasion. I usually don't carry over 50$ at any time on me, no credit cards or debit cards either. When I do bill paying or shopping, I do it all at once, thus the variety of bills. Do it all at once, saves hastles.
Being 100% honest.. I have no f-ing clue. I've NEVER done any body work till about 2-3 weeks ago. Sure, I used touch-up paint and painted a set of wheels.. but that was the extent of it. I never even welded or really gave it a try till Luke, Joe and Rudy came up and did Lukes body lift and Joes suspension lift. Rudy actually setup one of the welders and visors here and sparked my intrest in all of it. I grabbed some scrap barstock and took a ' crash course ' with some local union guys who taught me the basics.
And here I am.. doing thin metals ( Its a real wench compared to thicker/harder metals ).
I don't think it will be ' fully finished ' till late fall. It will be on the road and running fine before then, but everything won't be on it till july-ish . I plan on taking breaks so this thing stays as a ' toy ' and not a ' job '.
Thats all my truck is.. a ' toy ', nothing more. If it breaks, I just park it till I decide to get around to fixing it or a local guy here starts talking smack at the track.. I won't let him ' bump his gums ' and not have me around to go back at him :)
I had my Liberty5 Tranny fully rebuilt and had synchros cut for it.. That was.. like 3grand-ish?
I'm STILL doing my axle. I haven't really decided yet how its all going to setup. It will be an 8.8 with huge discs, A Detroit gear-type locker with c-clip eliminators and either 3.31 or 3.08 gears.
The engine isn't fully paid for, its a ' barter job ' of sorts. The final pricetag hasn't been set yet but.. when all is said and done, for machine work and ' freshening parts ' like berrings, rings, seats, pushrods, gaskets, dyno time and other ' parts ', that will be about.. 5 grand-ish ( maybe more.. maybe less? Who knows their 40yr friends of the family ). I provided a full motor that had about 50 track passes on it and they tore into it and made it all ' nice ' again. Its a 4bolt SBF with AFR heads and a SCAT hardened crank.
Theres 2 bundles of tubing for inside the cab that I haven't played with yet, dunno when I will, hopefully soon. I should have teh cab off the frame this week to cut out the floor pans and re-do the tranny tunnel, shifter, e-brake and other ' things '..
Cash wise.. all said and done? This time around ( which is what I should have done in the first place ) .. Probably.. 12-13 grand for parts and others services. I try to do as much as I can on my own. Having a heated facility to work on with a Mig/Tig/Stick welders, plasma cutters and a Haas machine helps reduce costs greatly.
Please don't show your wallet like that, it makes me drool (L.O.L).
What kind of paint are you going to be using?
And here I am.. doing thin metals ( Its a real wench compared to thicker/harder metals ).
Any ways just stopped in to see how you're doing and to say hello. Plus I can't wait to see the finished product.
Thats all my truck is.. a ' toy ', nothing more. If it breaks, I just park it till I decide to get around to fixing it or a local guy here starts talking smack at the track.. I won't let him ' bump his gums ' and not have me around to go back at him :)
#77
Kool...
You mentioned rhino linings and Line X. here's something you might want to consider later on. try one of those herculiner roll on kits. It might save you some dough. Plus it's not that hard to apply at all. On a scale of 1 to 10 in terms of skill needed I give it a 2 possible 3. Once completed it looks like a professional dealer done the installation. Check out these guys for paint. www.houseofkolor.com they even offer painting classes on using their paint and have a wide variety of styles and colors. They are expensive though. Good to hear from you and glad to see your project is going well. Oh, just to let you know if you don't hear from me much it's because I am busy looking for parts and etc. for my little danger Ranger. I'm calling it project Volcano. This is going to be killer. What kind of exhaust are you going to use if you don't mind me asking?
#78
#79
looks amazing D.! I wanna see this truck in person some day...
#80
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
You mentioned rhino linings and Line X. here's something you might want to consider later on. try one of those herculiner roll on kits. It might save you some dough. Plus it's not that hard to apply at all. On a scale of 1 to 10 in terms of skill needed I give it a 2 possible 3.
Another factor.. geographical area. Theres a lot of snow and salt tossed around here 3-5 months of the year. I believe this had a great dealing in the fading color of the roll-on stuff.
This truck won't see snow anymore so.. no need to worry about that :) I just want to protect the underside from future decay.
This is going to be killer. What kind of exhaust are you going to use if you don't mind me asking?
#81
I have such in the bed presently. Put it on in 2003 and its faded to hell now. Its a very flat black/charcoal in color. Roll-on entities tend to peel and fade. They don't last quite as good as the spray-on ones that ate 1/16th or 1/8th inch thick.
Another factor.. geographical area. Theres a lot of snow and salt tossed around here 3-5 months of the year. I believe this had a great dealing in the fading color of the roll-on stuff.
This truck won't see snow anymore so.. no need to worry about that :) I just want to protect the underside from future decay.
Borla or Bassani. I need to still research on which ones are made here and will offer the best performance. Ricemaster.. er sorry ' flomasters ' are out of the question. I don't need ' loud at the cost of power ' items.
Another factor.. geographical area. Theres a lot of snow and salt tossed around here 3-5 months of the year. I believe this had a great dealing in the fading color of the roll-on stuff.
This truck won't see snow anymore so.. no need to worry about that :) I just want to protect the underside from future decay.
Borla or Bassani. I need to still research on which ones are made here and will offer the best performance. Ricemaster.. er sorry ' flomasters ' are out of the question. I don't need ' loud at the cost of power ' items.
I switched back to a magnaflow and love it... Stick with the magnaflow
btw check this bed stuff out. i heard its great and you can install it yourself.
I plan on buying some whenever it warms up!
http://www.tptools.com/p/2600,233_U-...Liner-Kit.html
#82
that raptor stuff if awesome. its spray on like rhino or line x though. couple of guys i went to HS with did a ram 3500 flatbed and a 250 long bed in it. went on nice, shiny as hell, and looked great. never got to see how well it worked though cause it was the last day or so of the semester.
#83
True but...
It really depends on how much you spend on the D.I.Y kit. But herculiner has improved their kit over the years. They now offer the UV coating which wasn't offered before and it is hard to put the UV coat or coats on there. Flowmaster is good, but it does have some drawbacks. The type of sound that D. is looking for is probably a deeper tone rather than an aggressive louder performance tone. I think that the "right" Flowmaster choice would achieve the sound he's looking for. Check out the Big Block series D. They're 3 chambered instead of 2 and offer a deep tone but not as loud. They have a few charts posted on their site that may help you in deciding on the sound you want as well as sound clips of every muffler they make. But if you're looking at Borla and Bassani, you're getting quality. Magnaflow the ones that I heard have that Po'ed hornet sound, but they also offer many different styles and types exhaust systems like the mellow fifties tone. Bassani is extremely good, but does tend get louder quicker than the rest mentioned above. I was hoping to help out some in saving him some money, but I don't think he's worried about that too much.
#84
#85
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
Was a nice day, decided to do a little work. I had the tanks for the mig filled but still had the .024 wire from doing the bedholes/dents on the spool. I didn't feel like changing wire ( lazy today! ) so.. I thought I would give it a try anyway.
With running a small puddle, I had to make 3 passes. 1 right in the channel then 2 overlapping. It should be very strong.
Its a brace mostly so I can cutout the spare tire plate ( or whatever its called ) and in the process remove the gastank and the air-canister or whatever its named these days for the fuel system. I hope to have most of it done by tomorrow night.
BTW, anyone need a bumper? Its sonic blue, has a few scratches and all of its brackets and bolts including the frame clips. It will NOT have the plate-lights as I need those.
With running a small puddle, I had to make 3 passes. 1 right in the channel then 2 overlapping. It should be very strong.
Its a brace mostly so I can cutout the spare tire plate ( or whatever its called ) and in the process remove the gastank and the air-canister or whatever its named these days for the fuel system. I hope to have most of it done by tomorrow night.
BTW, anyone need a bumper? Its sonic blue, has a few scratches and all of its brackets and bolts including the frame clips. It will NOT have the plate-lights as I need those.
#95
#98
A couple comments for ya D.
Nice welds!
You could have taken that Cobra easy; they can't take turns either.
Roll on bedlinings suck; remember my yellow EDGE bed?
Keep on keeping on, I am planning a Cobra or a Lightning purchase soon.
People think we just ***** moan and post garbage. I work on my truck too, I just don't think anybody here cares about me restoring my GEN1 B2
Nice welds!
You could have taken that Cobra easy; they can't take turns either.
Roll on bedlinings suck; remember my yellow EDGE bed?
Keep on keeping on, I am planning a Cobra or a Lightning purchase soon.
People think we just ***** moan and post garbage. I work on my truck too, I just don't think anybody here cares about me restoring my GEN1 B2
#99
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
I gave my original wheels and tires to ScottyG when they had about 6000 miles on them LOL!.
#100
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
He gave me a rundown on the basics of sorts and a Local Union guy ( Brian/Shybriguy ) gave me some more ' lessons '. I learned how to get a good puddle/beed with a stick, then moved to mig.
It just takes a LOT of practice and patients.
I can do sheetmetal now. Im ' opposite '. I'm better at thin metals then bar-stock and angle/channel.
My stuff doesn't come apart though :) thats all that matters