Harvest Gold 1999 Ranger - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 12-10-2015
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Harvest Gold 1999 Ranger

Hey everyone. I've decided to make a permanent stay here, leaving another forum which shalt not be named.
My name is Cameron Howard, and I'm now in posession of a Harvest Gold 1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4, which I've named Gold Dust.

I originally took ownership of Gold Dust on 5/4/2015 for a total of $3,400 with 111,xxx and some odd miles on the clock. She needed a little love and care but, I expected that much for the price.
Of course, she isn't perfect. The wheels were badly corroded, but structurally okay. The steering pump whines pretty loud, there was a check engine light and an ABS light, the latter of which persists.
As far as fluids go, how old they are is up in the air. I did change the oil with some penzoil 5w30 and a bosch filter.

http://i.imgur.com/D0DJJm4.jpg

As you can tell from the original picture, it hadn't been washed for a while let alone waxed, the wheels were rough but with thick tread. There used to be a tint strip across the top which was peeling badly, so that was removed soon after. The rain guard on the driver's side was also busted so they were removed. Everything was in need of a good polish, of course, and the interior was in need of a good clean up.

Mechanically the vehicle is sound. For the first while, it ran rough and rich. The rich part was due to a faulty EGR valve. With that replaced it doesn't consume so much gas now. The ABS code is somewhat resolved, but that's on hold for a while.

First thing were the rear brakes. I had taken off the rear drum to inspect them, only to have shoes and springs fall to the ground. There was almost no pad material left, the cylinders were leaking all to no end, and thus everything was gooked up with brakefluid/brake dust like paste/crust. New shoes, springs, cylinders and adjuster wheel later they're in perfect shape.

The second project was the wheels. Structurally they were okay, but needed some cleaning up. Sand paper (wet sanding), polishing compound and clearcoat stripper fixed that, with some black spray paint to color the inset portions.

http://i.imgur.com/5T8kLPP.jpg

Note the hub caps were polished and painted as well. New rain guards were also added, AVS brand.

Some time later the front brakes were given some attention. New calipers, rotors, and pads were all fitted on. Originally the rotors were to have been lathed/turned, but nobody would turn them for some reason. So a new set was purchased instead. Nothing was particurally wrong with the existing equipment up front, except the vehicle sat for a while, only being driven in the winter. Since the front brakes do the bulk of the work, we thought it to be a good idea to replace them with new parts.

Over the course of several months, an overhead console, complete LEDs in the dash, a new radio bezel with the fog light switch was installed, the valance and rear bumper step pad were painted satin black, aftermarket headlights and taillights were fitted with plug/play leds installed, except for the headlights as of writing this. A center console is currently in the works and is almost done, aux reverse lights were installed, lights behind the jumpseats were installed too, which are awesome btw, and a unique mod to turn on the radio with no key. Oh, aftermarket radio too. 26 bucks from walmart, that'll get me buy until I can afford something beefier. Definately beats cassets! Of which I own zero.

Pics!







I'm aware of the crooked pedal. That's been fixed.





I'll be back soon with more stuff.
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Harvest Gold 1999 Ranger-tmjwkcv.jpg   Harvest Gold 1999 Ranger-ga7d6ct.jpg   Harvest Gold 1999 Ranger-zqvblea.jpg  
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Old 12-11-2015
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As I promised, the thread continues. Pardon if this takes a while, I have to sum up ten pages worth of content.
As you can probably tell by my photographs I am an avid fan of LEDs of all shapes, sizes, and colors. RGB LEDs are definately my favorite, if you're curious.
I have a pair of them in my headlight switch and 4x4 switch, replacing the regular bulbs. Was easy enough to do at 15 minutes or so per switch. Basically get them to fit in the hole where the original bulb came out of and tap into power coming on with the instrument cluster and such.
Unfortunately I do not have a photo, but my current HVAC is out of a crown victoria police cruiser. Much sleeker than the original.
I've wired my cargo lights to come on with the doors, as well. This is acheived by simply cutting the black/pink wire (check for your year) at the harness on the truck side and splice the cargo end to the dome light. Easy as that.
I should note all my LEDs have been purchased from superbrightleds.com. Great site, I love it.
Currently, I have steering wheel number three in this Ranger. When I originally got it, the wheel itself was okay but the coating on it was coming off rather badly, so I swapped it out for one from an explorer, like the original. This one was in good condition, but no longer textured due to wear. However, this was again swapped out when my father got a leather wrapped steering wheel for his 03. His steering wheel was textured still, so he gave me the old wheel. Much better! On the subject of steering wheels, I do have blue LEDs in my cruise pods.
I also have a black mustang dome light installed with, you guessed it! a blue LED bulb in the center. Tan explorer vanity mirrors are also installed. I'll have to take some new photographs of all this. I'd like to do a video after christmas showing the vehicle in it's entirety as it sits. the iphone 4s doesn't capture great video. Passable but, not great either.
In the overhead console and dome light's map functions I have amber LEDs as amber doesn't ruin your night vision quite as badly as white does, or so I've been told. I like it either way.
Something I should note, is those red shocks pictured earlier are 'gabriel' brand shock absorbers. 75 dollars in total off rockauto. They're great, holding up well too.
As you can imagine, the underside and the reese hitch were very rusty. So a wire brush cleaned it up nicely and I used cheap spray paint (98 cents per can) to pretty it up and help protect it until I can get my hands on some true rust prevention. Not bad for cheap paint.
I also have an under hood light installed which came off a chevrolet blazer. It takes an 1156 bulb and is way bright. Previously I had rigged a 194 socket with some expoxy and a christmas tree clip from a wiring harness which worked fine, but this is way better. Also, the button in the bezel controls this light. However the new light has a mercury switch in it. I'll leave the switch there anyway as I just like it.
More photos.
It should be noted that none of these are in any particular order.






I think that covers all the mods completed.
Currently I've been working on a center console, full length. I managed to find one in the right color, no paint needed. Simple green worked well, also a magic eraser for those tough marks.
The console is in near perfect condition, I'd say. Bolted right in, no problem.

In the center arm rest, I've installed six blue LEDs, one below each screw hole. These were wired in series on each side then both sides were wired together in parallel. 180 ohm resister was used, quarter watt. Doesn't even get warm.

Coin holder RGB lights installed to illuminate the cup holder. Smoked plastic was used as not only a cover but it also dims the lighting down.


More tomorrow.
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Harvest Gold 1999 Ranger-1hcpp1v.jpg   Harvest Gold 1999 Ranger-7idbins.jpg   Harvest Gold 1999 Ranger-oqykrnl.jpg  
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Old 12-11-2015
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Took a few new shots.



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Old 12-11-2015
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My LED reverse lights (fly-vison filter) are a lot blue-er than what they are in person. Not sure what's up with that.

Word of advice, never use pipe cleaners in the chucks of drills to lean EGR pipes. They snap off faster than you can say "Well, sh*t." 40 dollars later and I got a brand new one from rockauto. Great site, I've gotten a lot of stuff from them.

Now would be a good time to give a quick shout out to a pair of new, very supportive, friends. Thanks to the both of you for being just the way you are. You know who you are.

Another mod I've done is the 'blinker mod'. For those of you unaware, it gives your otherwise dull corner light some action, allows it to blink with your turn signals. As far as I know, it should work on every ranger out there. And, yes, it DOES work with LEDs. However, one must be careful with choosing your LEDs. Make sure your LED bulbs are NOT polarity sensitive, as the whole mod revolves around reversing polarity.

My headlights so far are just plain halogen. Boring, and very lack-luster in performance. So, sometime in the future, I plan to install LED headlights which should give a big boost to performance. Not to mention they're more efficient, which means less load on the alternator and they could be run for longer with the engine off without causing the truck to fail to start due to low cranking amps.

Something else I would like to do is drop in a 5.0 V8 from an explorer. That's so far off the road it's not even funny, but still something I'd like to do.
It's obvious by my stereo that it's really not all that great. It works fine but it lacks the power to drive the speakers. I plan on spending a nice chunk of change on a new one that has more power to it. I may replace the speakers too, but they seem fine for now.

This spring I plan on replacing the steering pump and changing out the transmission fluid and filter, using mercon V of course. After that is taken care of, I plan on installing proper fog lights. The ones pictured before were, really REALLY bad. Light output was good and it wasn't the fault of the product itself but, the curvature of the valance prevented them from seating correctly, and thus light was going ALL over the place.

So, I'll be getting a fog light valance with proper fog lights and installing those. I also plan on putting LED bulbs in there, too.
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Old 12-13-2015
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Two more plans I have I forgot to mention earlier. A powerdome hood is in my future, thanks to a friend of mine. In exchange for some work, I'll be payed with a hood. Unfortunately it's not Harvest Gold but, no biggie.
Something else I plan on installing are some black, textured, 06 mirrors to replace my manual flags, bought from Rockauto.

Awesome news, too. A week or two ago I had lost a USB thumb drive in my dash. It had fallen in that little black hole where the VIN number plate is. If something small falls in there, do not bother taking your dash apart. Drive it around for a while, go on some bumpy roads and it will fall out at your feet. Don't expect instant gratification though. It will take some time. For me it was a week.

Unfortuantely, I've put in two different G switches from salvage yards. My ABS light is still on, and no error codes are present. No DTCs either. I've cleared the computer twice and it still comes on after I take off, going forward or reverse. 4x4 does not seem to affect it. I'm going to drive around on this different G switch and see if it either goes out after a while or it throws a code at me. If neither of those things happen, I'll likely forget it's there. I'd like to have it working but I won't tear my hair out for it.

Now is a good time to mention, if you have any suggestions, questions, tips, or anything you want to share, feel free to post. I enjoy discussing anything and everything Ranger, although lighting is my specialty.

Speaking of lighting, I finally found some LED bulbs that will fit in those visor mirrors!

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...-car/243/1162/

Only available in cool white, so hopefully more colors come around. I'll be buying the cool whites, even though amber would be better.

From the same site, I found these small LED light bars that could fit behind my grille. Cool, eh? I'll likely never install them as I have enough lights but, still cool. Down the road I may swap my reverse aux lights with these. 500 lumens EACH. Smallest ones, 30 bucks a pop.
I may have already said it, but it's worth repeating. Install auxiliary reverse lights! They are AWESOME! Cheap and easy to do, hello Cheryl!
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Old 12-16-2015
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I am now the proud owner of a fiberglass powerdome hood as well as an 01 header panel. A big thank you to my friend, whom I shall refer to as 'Thousand-Parts'. No idea what I'll do with the header panel.

The hood itself is a little rough around the edges, but perfectly usable. The hood itself was on a truck which rolled. The damage is mostly where it scraped along the ground, and the wrong color anyway. I'll be calling around local body shops, hopefully it's less than 200.... *cringe*

Pics later. Thanks, thousand-parts!
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Old 12-17-2015
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Went to Mills Body Shop down the road from me for a quote. 500 bucks to repair the damaged areas and to paint it Harvest Gold. 200 to paint an undamaged hood. Either way, very fair prices in my opinion.

Over at Bartley's they wanted 1,000 just to repair the hood. One grand just to REPAIR it! Paint was an extra 500. Screw that. Going to mills for sure.

Anywho, pics.


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Old 12-17-2015
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Looks like your cleaning it up nicely. I like what you did with the wheels.

How hard were the lights in the cruise pods? I'd like to do that and the overhead console on mine but cutting the headliner scares me haha. My interior is near perfect.
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Old 12-17-2015
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Thanks! Glad to see someone other than me likes her.
The lights in the pods (in my case) are the twist and lock style. You can get them @ superbrightleds.com for a good price. The hardest part is getting the pods themselves apart. I'd recommend a gift card or credit/debit card to help pry the rubber out of the plastic housing. The board will come with it.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...-car/223/1041/

I ordered two of the B8.4 bulbs in blue. You will need to bend the metal tabs down so that it works properly. Needle nose pliers work well for this. Also note to test the bulbs before you put it all back together. They are polarity sensitive.

And yeah, the headliner is very scary. I was frightened too, but once you poke the blade through it's not so bad.
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Old 12-18-2015
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Thanks for the info. I'll order those after I take stock of what LEDs I have left versus what I need. Although I'll probably stick with green. Where the old bulbs tinted or were they white?
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Old 12-19-2015
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The bulbs in the gauge cluster are all white. What determines their color is the filter that it runs though, which is removed easily enough via gentle sanding. The bulbs in the cruise pods have no filter on the pods themselves. Rather there, the bulbs have a little rubber thing over the bulb to achieve a desired color. Same goes for the headlight switch, 4x4 switch, and fog light switch.
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Old 12-26-2015
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At a local scrapyard, I found a perfect black powerdome hood for 135. Decided to spend that on the hood and pay the 200 for a repaint. 335 plus tax is cheaper than 500 plus tax, after all.

Pics!







The hood is not 100% aligned, but it latches down securely and doesn't crimp down on any fenders. I'll have the body shop align it properly. After this hood is complete I plan on selling my old one. The flat steel hood is in perfect shape if anyone wants it. Taking Gold Dust down to Mills on monday to get the hood repainted the proper color. I got the hood from Liberty Auto Salvage if anyone is curious.

One odd thing I did have to do was swap latches from the old hood, as this one was too short and therefor would not latch. Strange.
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Old 12-29-2015
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Nice progress. It's nice to see it when people take time to address all the little things.
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Old 01-09-2016
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Thanks!

Since my last post, I've had the hood painted to a perfect match, stuck on a pair of 3.0 badges, installed a pair of amber fog lights (legal in my area), and stuck on a fog light valance from rockauto, painted satin black using krylon fusion brand paint, specifically forumulated for plastic.

First, the hood. Believe it or not, it was done in a single day. 200 dollars even.



The badge(s) came from ebay, if anyone is wondering. I'd prefer a 5.0 under the hood instead but hey, what can you do? Can't really go into great detail with this, as I had the body shop do the work.

As far as the valance goes.... don't bother, honestly. If you don't want your current valance, go baja with it. In the end it will look better. I say this because the design of the valance itself is so pitiful, you end up ruining a great deal of the clips. Now I understand why the previous owners had the old valance screwed on. I ended up having to do the same thing at the driver's side corner. If you still want one, however, it's listed as "VARIOUS MFR FO1095172 {#F87Z17626CAA}" under 'valance panel'.
More detailed photos will come later today or tomorrow.

The fog lights themselves came from superbrightleds.com, as have all my other LEDs. I plan to get some photos of those tonight in action. If you go the same route, be sure to check with your local laws. In my state, Indiana, they only have a limit about how high or low they can be and how many I can have. Brightness nor color are mentioned, although I presume I'd still get pulled over if I had 10,000 lumen purple fog lights.
Purchasing Link: https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...att/1974/4503/

The lamps come with bolts and lock washers for mounting, and no extra hardware is needed, at least for the 1999 year. Originally I planned on using some metal brackets from a hardware store, until I found out there was already a dead center hole on the bumper itself for mounting, so I used that. A word of warning though, if you plan on buying extra nuts or washers for these bolts, buy new bolts too. These bolts are a one-off size, to put it nicely. It's listed on the site under 'specifications'. 9.95mm by 30-something millimeters. You won't find compatible hardware, in metric or imperial. I, however, didn't find any additional hardware necessary.

As far as wiring the lights up goes, they are polarity sensitive, so bear that in mind. My Ranger was prewired for fog lamps, so I used the existing harnesses. With this said, you will need a multimeter to determine which wire is positive and which is negative, or they won't work. I got a pair of plugs to snap into the existing harnesses off of a 96-2000 explorer, which use the same harness side connector, regardless of what bulb is on the other end. Unfortunately both wires coming off these plugs are black, so you'll either want to use red and black zipties to mark polarity, or masking tape with a plus or minus written on them. As always, heatshrink and solder. No crimping! I'd also highly recommend using some split loom too. Makes for a cleaner install and helps to protect the wiring from road debris.

Something else I've done is replace my explorer vanity mirror bulbs with PnP style LEDs.



Took about ten minutes. Purchasing link: https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...-car/243/1162/

These, too, are polarity sensitive and they are not marked in any way. However, you could use a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the bulb while you determine which way is correct. Do be sure that the single SMD LED is pointed out towards where the lens would be when reinstalled. Big upgrade for little money. It is worth noting that while these are listed as 'cool white' they're more under the 'natural white' area, so if that matters to you, take note of that. This worked out better for me as they match perfectly with my cargo lights, which are natural white. I would give a purchasing link to those as well, however SBL has discontinued them unfortunately. The link does still work, but it doesn't do much good for anyone wanting to buy them.

My next modification is going to be installing a pair of manual 06 mirrors to replace my manual 'flag' style mirrors. This will be a little while though as I have yet to be paid. Come payday, though, an order will be placed. After that, the modifying will largely cool down and I'll go over some of my other more complicated mods and explain in more detail how those were done for viewers wondering.

More photos of the work later.
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Old 01-11-2016
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More pics.



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Old 01-16-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheArcticWolf1911 View Post
I love your coat rack!
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Old 01-16-2016
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Thanks, kealel! Works well, doesn't it? Lol.

Placed an order today for a set of 06 mirrors, black textured in manual. Since my mirrors are currently manual, and I don't feel like wiring a set up, I'll stick with manual.

There's a couple reasons why I'm swapping mirrors. I like the looks of my mirrors, but I find people who don't care often bump into my mirrors and with this design, they get knocked out of alignment. Anyone who's adjusted a passenger side manual mirrors knows it's no fun. Same goes for windows.

However, for the 98-05 mirrors as well as the 06 to 11 mirrors, the manual variety is adjusted by simply pushing the glass, while the main mirror remains a break-away design. I personally have never really cared for the 98-05 mirrors, so thus the 06 type instead.
If anyone is wondering, I've bought them off rock auto for 20 bucks a piece under '2006 ford ranger 3.0 v6', although the mirror should be the same for every ranger 06 or newer. I'll post part numbers after they're here.
However, onto things that are in fact here.
Thanks to a friend of mine, Thousand Parts, I've managed to find a home for my old steel hood and in return got a pair of..... J hooks! So to day, I took the time to install them after a quick cleanup with some soapy water and a nylon brush.

My baby's a little dirty, but she still looks great dirty; at least to me.


Installation was literally plug and play. I used the original bolts, all three for each hook. There were places for them already, so no drilling was necessary.

You may notice something with this picture, my bumper. No, your eyes aren't tricking you. I had to lower my bumper a bit, enough so two fingers could get under the corner light/turn signal. Why, you may ask? Well, unlike my previous hooks, these curve downward and make contact with the valance. They wouldn't mount up right until I dropped the bumper all the way down, without removing, and then bolted them up nice and tight. 15mm bolts on the Jhooks, 18 on the four bumper bolts. A half inch drive ratchet comes in handy for those bumper bolts, especially around that transmission cooler. Beware of the cooler's lines, btw.
I'll also throw in the fact I used a deepwell 18mm socket on the bumper bolts. It gives you just enough extension without having to use an extension.
Another warning, be careful not to bump into the radatior while you're tightening the bottom two bolts of the hooks, j-type or otherwise. After that mishap, your hand, truck, and wallet will all be very sore, not to mention the mess that'll make.

Onto a slightly different topic, it occured to me I never quite explained why I took a photo of my third brake/cargo light bar. It doesn't really look like anything obvious was done to it. No obvious LEDs, covers, nightshade, nothing.
Well, here's why. Initially when I got the truck, all the original lenses were alright, except for that bar on the rear of the cab. For some reason those appear to yellow or 'craze' very quickly before the others do. Around that time I found a video by 'ChrisFix' on youtube, you may have already heard of him. He shows a process on how to redo the brake light, as well as any other plastic lenses, for 10 to 20 dollars so that's what I did. It sure beats paying 40 dollars for a new one!
So, using that method, that's how mine turned out. It wasn't particurally bad to start with, but you could tell it needed a little love. So I took it off and did just that.
I'm about to do this three more times for a friend of mine. I'm also going to be taking three cargo light harnesses and changing them over to full third brake light harnesses. In fact I'm going to use my new camera and make a how to on just how to do that for you full-third-brakelight-ers out there who don't want the single bulb anymore. It's really simple to convert one of these cargo harnesses, but it's not hard to make up a harness either. I'll get to that within the next week or two. After she gets a bath I'll be doing a vehicle walk-around to show off all that has been done. Few words spoken, as I'll be letting the camera do the talking.
So, with that, what mods have I done that you guys want me to go a little more in depth about? I'd be happy to go full detail on anything I've done and offer some advice for if you attempt it yourself, sharing my experiences with you guys.
As always, suggestions and questions alike are always welcome. I think the first video I'll do as far as indepth goes will be fog lights. I don't feel I explained that quite enough.
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Old 01-20-2016
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Got a healthy dose of snow last night. Brushed the snow off and took some photos because why not. Still dirty! >:(

Snow-reduction, bro!






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Old 01-20-2016
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My 06 mirrors arrived. Black textured, 20 bucks a pop. Part number if anyone is interested, purchased from rockauto.
Left, manual. TYC 3040112
Right, manual. TYC 3040111




If you have to modify your 06 mirrors like I do, a standard 4mm socket will grip and rotate the studs easily. Quarter inch drive. No need to use pliers or purchase anything fancy for a one off project.

Also, something very rare will be making its way into gold dust in early February. I'll reveal what it is when I have the part(s).
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Old 01-21-2016
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And the mirrors are on my truck! I would have taken pictures during the install rather than just the prior and end results, but there's already a how-to about that, so I won't waste your time here.












Now for some tips. For my 1999, the bolts holding the mirrors on were 7/16ths and of course required a short extension. A magnetic retrevial tool is a great help for removing the bolts, as the holes they move through are barely bigger than the bolts; and unless you have mad ninja kills they'll likely fall into the door itself. Bummer.

For removing the studs, a six point, 4mm socket will work very well; which you probably have already. If not you can likely get one for less than five dollars at several hardware stores or auto stores.

It's worth noting that the screws do not drill into a metal piece within the mirror. It digs into the plastic itself. So when it stops turning, stop applying pressure!

While cutting off the lower two risers, you may find the previous holes are clogged by melted plastic. A small pick or drill bit will work well to clear them out.

When installing the new mirrors, use only the extention with socket to get the bolts finger tight on all three studs. Once they're snug, take your ratchet and by only gripping the head, snug it up a little bit more. Don't go crazy on these.

EDIT: Took the truck out for a drive and WOW! It's incredible how much more I can see. You guys have got to do this mod if you haven't already! Probably old news, but I'd argue it's old news worth repeating.
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Last edited by TheArcticWolf1911; 01-21-2016 at 03:26 PM.
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  #21  
Old 01-23-2016
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Looked at my maintenance log, and found out Gold Dust is due for an oil change on February 16th. So, with that, comes the choices. Of course, the first two options you have. Do I buy again what I bought six months ago, or do I get something else?

Five months ago, I bought Pennzoil 5w30, non-synthetic, with a bosche filter. She chugged five quarts of that and idled like a dream. Drives nice and smooth like a dream to me. It also didn't cost me very much either.
I personally would like to try a more expensive 'premium' oil with a nice filter too. Since I don't drive that many miles, obviously a synthetic oil would be a waste of money.
A friend of mine mentioned he really likes Valvoline, but also mentioned interest in mobil1.

So, anyone reading this; what oil and filter would you recommend?
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Old 01-23-2016
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I'm running Mobil 1 5w20 with a Mobil 1 filter. Haven't even changed the oil since I did the synthetic swap. Don't rack up many miles. But I feel like it idled a little smoother and plan to change the oil every 8 to 10 thousand miles.
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Old 01-24-2016
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Mobil1, hands down. I made a thread awhile back about why. I spoke with an expert independent oil analyst and he said from all of the testing he performed (on his own time for his own information) that Mobil1 oil comes new with much fewer particulates than all other brands, and their filters are also best at removing these particulates.

Edit: here's the thread I was referring to. https://www.ranger-forums.com/oil-lu...ilters-145484/
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  #24  
Old 01-24-2016
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@Dewey: It's my understanding that, even with synthetic, you must change your oil every six months. Is that true or one of the many misconceptions of oils?

@bravetitan24: Interesting studies. I think I just may give that a try, assuming they don't want an astronomical price for it. I'll probably end up getting the oil and filter today, because on monday it's supposed to rain. Yep, rain with all this snow and crud. Needless to say, I'd like to get that before the rain screws stuff up.
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Old 01-24-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheArcticWolf1911 View Post
@Dewey: It's my understanding that, even with synthetic, you must change your oil every six months. Is that true or one of the many misconceptions of oils?

@bravetitan24: Interesting studies. I think I just may give that a try, assuming they don't want an astronomical price for it. I'll probably end up getting the oil and filter today, because on monday it's supposed to rain. Yep, rain with all this snow and crud. Needless to say, I'd like to get that before the rain screws stuff up.
Engine oil and filters are cases where you get what you pay for. Cheap, bad, oil and filters can become much more expensive than premium if it results in screwing up your engine.
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