Harvest Gold 1999 Ranger - Page 9 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Project Logs For detailed builds specific to the Ford Ranger, one thread per vehicle please.

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  #201  
Old 08-09-2016
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I picked up a second set of dual note horns to go with the first set, and they work as expected. They're loud when they're all going at once!

So while cleaning them up, this spawned an idea. I'm planning on coloring up my engine bay, tastefully. A select few parts will be given a coat of red paint. Nothing big, just small parts here and there. When I buy new spark plug wires, they'll be given red sleeves to cover the motorcraft grey. the throttle body cover will be given some extra attention. A Ford badge will be mounted with red paint applied. It also occured to me to stencil the word 'ford' on the throttle body, like this. Note the overspray.



Possible parts to paint would be my under hood lights, the metal portion the MAF sensor attaches to, throttle body cover, possibly the coil pack, etc. Not aimed to appear as 'all show no go' but just to bring some color into the engine bay itself. Dress it up a bit.
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  #202  
Old 08-11-2016
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Well, my fuse box arrived today and I immediately started in. Unfortunately I didn't get as much done as I aimed.

Started on the horns, as those (two sets) would be run through the fuse box. First step was to mount the second set of horns to the header panel. Initially I was going to use one of the header panel mounting bolts. Unfortunately it didn't fit right, so I ended up using something else.

Took off the grille (four bolts) and then the plastic 'shroud' or 'wind tunnel' to gain better access. Lucky for me there were two holes already there for me to use, both already drilled out for a 1/4-20 tap. With the hole tapped and a quarter-twenty bolt threaded in, the horns were mounted.

After that, I wired both sets in parallel. The horns themselves are grounded through their mountings, only needing a power wire. For this, I used 14 gauge wire in yellow to match the yellow wires they already had. Oh, and spoiler alert, the wiring will be messy until I'm finished. When it's all wired in (horns, lights, fan) then it will be tidied up with wire loom. Makes it worlds easier to trouble shoot when something isn't working.

I couldn't get a decent picture, but the horn wire (amongst most others) will be run through a hole in the header panel, just left of the driver's side headlight, towards the grille area. It'll be protected by wire loom when it's done, so no need for a grommet.

Of course, I decided to use a relay. The relay I chose was off of a Taurus, and older one with a 3.8 engine. It's the fan relay, I believe. Suitable enough for my horns. Also has a handy mounting tab. Convenient :)

The relay was then wired in the usual way. The stock harness was used for a trigger, grounding the relay with an eyelet at a designated grounding point, which the battery directly connects to. Then of course yellow power wires were run to and from the relay, one wire going to the horns and one wire going to the fuse box.

With that part done, I moved onto the main power wire. Given this is a fuse box, it needs to be very hefty wire. I'm unsure of the gauge, but it's as thick as the high side wire on the fan. Now since this wire is three core wire, it's that multiplied by three. I want to say ten gauge. Either way, that's plenty heavy for my needs. It's ugly, but that too will be loomed to make it look nicer.

With the wire ran and soldered, I tacked on some connectors for the fuse box. Low and behold I so used the wrong connector for this. I should have used eyelets but didn't unfortunately, using an open connector instead. With these I'm unable to get the wires onto the post in a way that I feel good about. So tomorrow I'm lopping those off and stuffing eyelets on in their place for a good, secure, connection.

The Fuse box I've chosen to mount on the plastic shroud behind the grille. At the end it will be secured with four screws, but for now as it's being moved and removed as necessary, only two will be pushed through. I'm also planning to ground these screws, to make it easier for diagnosis. Being able to ground a multimeter or test light while poking around at fuses is very nice. I'm also going to be cutting a piece of steel that all for screws will go through on the bottom side of the plastic, sort of sandwich the shroud for more rigidity.











I don't have any photographs of the power wire yet. I'll cover that once it's complete. Stay tuned!
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  #203  
Old 08-13-2016
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Cool truck and great inspiration. Your thread is responsible for my two favorite mods I've done, center console & 06+ door mirrors! Probably for my gauges now being red as well as this was one of the first builds I checked out before becoming a member here. I really like how the blue shows through your "clear" guage faces & whatnot, looking good. Another detail I really dig is the 3.0 badges on the powerdome. And now thanks to harvestgold I'm gonna have to go grab some tow hooks.

I've been having bouts of success with my OHC lens silicon mold project, still in experimental stages tho but looking promising.

Anyways awesome thread, thanks for being so detailed. For me it's more interesting than someone just saying "look at this". Very nice truck & I look forward to seeing what's next.
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  #204  
Old 08-13-2016
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You're very welcome, and thank you for reading. I'm glad I've helped contribute to your build, indirectly. Looking forward to that new lens project, though!

The badges I found on ebay (not sure if I mentioned that or not) and they were fairly cheap. Easy to apply, as well.

Good luck finding these tow hooks though. People don't let 'em go very often, and they're not cheap, usually. You could try taking a standard pair of hooks and giving those a good primer and paint job, however that wouldn't last long if you actually use your hooks. Once I finally get the last part I need, I'll go on a detailed posting for the electric fan, if that adapter ever gets here. I can't start without that, unfortunately.

On an unrelated note, there's two things that contribute to the glowing effect. One, you have to use fine grit sandpaper in a wetsand. I used 1000 grit 3M sandpaper, although I'm sure with 2000 or 3000 it would work even better.
Second, the LEDs you choose play a major part in the final result. LEDs have what is called a 'viewing' angle, which is how the light is dispersed. The smaller the number (say 32 degrees) the tighter the beam will be. The bigger the number, like 360, the wider the spread. Incandecent bulbs are by nature a 360 degree bulb in this respect. The closer you can get to 360 the better.
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  #205  
Old 08-13-2016
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Bought a 400 foot wire kit from harbor freight for 32 bucks, and so far I like it. Can't beat the price considering what you're getting.

Unfortunately though, I realized that the electric fan's wires are much bigger than 10 gauge. So I'm going to have to purchase bigger wire yet. I hesitate to call it 8 gauge, but I'm thinking that's close.

EDIT: OK, just did some quick measurements, and it appears that the largest wire is 9 AWG. I'm going to buy eight gauge wire for all three, although I'll see if I can't get away with not extending the ground wire and eyeleting it onto the chassis or other metal part.

Something I like to do, that generally works, is match the factory size, and if you can afford to do so, go up one size. I see no reason why eight gauge wire won't work for my application, so that's what I'll plan to go with. Black for ground, then i'm thinking green for low and white for high. I've already used red yellow and blue, so I'm trying to keep colors unique.

EDIT2: Suppose you guys would appreciate this link. https://www.tedpella.com/company_htm...uge-vs-dia.htm

A set of calipers are required for this. You can get a cheap set for ten bucks at harbor freight.

EDIT3: Looking around for wire as I modify this endlessly. If you just search for '8 awg' you'll get building wire, to the tune of about 60 cents per foot. Search for 'primary wire' and you'll get more of what you want.

EDIT4: Here's what I'm going for. Without the wire this fan stays still, so I don't have much of a choice, unless I chose to run two or three lines of smaller gauge wire instead, but I'm not keen on doing that. http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-ft-Total-...item3f615e7431

Last edited by TheArcticWolf1911; 08-13-2016 at 10:44 PM.
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  #206  
Old 08-14-2016
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Good choice on the wire. I've been very happy with them for years.
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  #207  
Old 08-14-2016
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A big, BIG, tip for anyone doing an EFAN. When pulling your fan, take the extra time and get as much of the factory harness as you possibly can. I neglected to do this, which leads me to the following. Seriously, it will save you some dollars and quite possibly time.

I haven't bought any wire as of yet, if only because I've ran out of cash at the moment. Gas and other stuff take priority. That being said, I ran around to a few hardware stores to see what I could find locally. Your mileage may vary.

First stop was Home Depot, where I normally buy my wire. Absolutely no 8 gauge wire, at least in a consumer length (sub 100 feet). Next stop was Menards. Better selection, but I could only find 100 foot lengths, in what I believe to be, solid core wire. Regardless, too much and too expensive for me. I then tried Lowes. I can buy 8 gauge wire there by the foot, but it's the same brand as the 4 AWG gauge wire I bought there before.

Now why is that a problem? It's not, really, but there's one cruicial reason. The 4 AWG I bought there has very thick strands and is very hard to run. I don't recommend that for automotive use at all. I believe that the 8 gauge wire will be the same story, so I've elected to stick with the ebay link I previously posted.

Until I get the wire, I can still run wires for AC request and get some relays mounted up in preparation. One thing I need to do is ensure I have a big enough wrench for the clutch fan. I believe I have one around, but I need to make sure. Otherwise, that fan is never coming off.




In other news, Harbor Freight is having a 25 percent off your entire purchase sale on September fifth. I'm going to take advantage of this. There's been a few times where I've needed a tap and die of a given size. I don't have any dies and very few taps. So there, I can purchase a 60 piece tap and die set for 40 bucks. I'm also going to buy some thread cutting oil at the same time. Also while I'm there, I'm buying a long handle 3/8ths ratchet and a 17 inch breaker bar in 3/8ths drive.

I'm sure there's a few people who will frown upon that purchase, but the few times I need a tap or die, these will last me just fine. As for the ratchet and breaker bar, I'm satisfied those too will be fine. I keep a half inch Pittsburg breaker bar in my truck for my lugnuts and my father owns a 1/2 inch ratchet from them, both of which work very well.

Speaking of lugnuts, there's another thing. My lug nuts and studs need some attention. They're not cross threaded or anything, but they need a little TLC. Ideally, I'd buy new studs and new nuts, but that gets expensive and time consuming. Rather, I'm going to take off all the wheels and support the vehicle, then take some time to chase the threads on all the studs and all the nuts so they all ride on nice and smooth again.
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  #208  
Old 08-17-2016
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Well, I cheaped out. I opted to head to the salvage yard and grab the rest of the Taurus' harness for the electric fans. Got six feet of wire (perfect length) for five bucks. Decided it would be in my best interest to pinch some pennies before the big sale. Plus I get the feeling my coolant sensor adapter will be in today and I don't want to wait for the wire to be delivered to me.
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  #209  
Old 08-17-2016
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Well, I was wrong on the shipping. C'mon postman! However, as I type this, I get a notification saying it arrived in my town. Tomorrow it is, then!

Anyway, I've reached a bit of an impasse here. I pulled some cables from another Taurus, an 03 or similar as the Taurus I wanted was gone. However, after pulling it, I found that my new harness is rather nice, in the sense that it's the perfect length for my application with two rather nice plugs on the end of the harness. These plugs still have their locking clips, unlike my current fan, and the wires are nice and long, no splicing more length on required.

I'm beginning to think that it may be wise to opt for the dual Taurus fans and retain the, basically perfect, harness that I have and use that fan else where, say maybe in my 'shop' for general cooling purposes.

I don't feel right about lopping off two perfectly good plugs like that when they're better than what I have right now. Two fans on a radiator also seems to be the standard. The only drawback is the dual fan setup is single speed VS the current two speed fan that I have. However, if two fans are pulling air, that's what I would consider to be the equivalent of one fan on 'high'. Since this is cooling my engine, I want to do this the best way that I can. Starting to think I should have pulled the dual fans in the first place.

EDIT: After some thinking and a bit of research, evidently the two fan setup is ironically not as effective as one fan. So, therefor I'm sticking with what I've got. I'll be finding a set of actual snapping connectors, though.

Last edited by TheArcticWolf1911; 08-17-2016 at 05:29 PM.
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  #210  
Old 08-18-2016
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Well, the coolant adapter/fitting/whatever you call it arrived and it's a nice anodized red. However now comes the time to tackle an issue. What I ordered is only available with a 1/8th inch NPT (national pipe thread) fitting. Thankfully there's just enough there for me to drill it out and tap it to 3/8ths. Of course now I have to find a 3/8ths NPT tap, as a standard 3/8ths tap isn't the correct thread, and it'll either not thread in or it'll leak like crazy.

I do recommend purchasing a new set of hose clamps though, as the ones it comes with are cheap Chinese garbage. Thin, cheaply made, and the action is so gritty it's unreal. The ones I bought are much better. Wider band, smoother action, and just made better all around. I'll hang onto the cheap ones for something later that isn't so critical.
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  #211  
Old 08-18-2016
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This is becoming such a royal PITA. The anodized red 'fitting' I purchased isn't going to work for my application. Don't waste your time with it, and here's why. It's well made, but the problem is, there's not enough space to drill and tap it to 3/8ths, like a standard size would be without interfering with the grounding screw, and compromising the new threads. So, that's likely going back or hitting the shelf for something else.

Next up, that kit I purchased with the sensor, the cheapskates didn't even use ten gauge wire on the high side of the relay, so it'll melt if it tries to take that fan's current. Which means I need to construct my own harness. Not a big deal, but it completely defeats the reason why I bought it in the first place. At least I can use that elsewhere.....

So, solutions? Well, I need a way for that sensor to be in the coolant to monitor the temperature. I could drill and tap it to 1/4 inch and use a 1/4 to 3/8ths fitting to get to the correct size. However, this means that the probe isn't in the flow of coolant now, and possibly in an air bubble, which means that fan will turn on way too late. So, that's off the table.

Option B is I take some copper or brass pipe, drill and tap it to 1/2 inch thread and use the 1/2 to 3/8ths bushing that came with the sensor to construct my own adapter with solder, taking a similar approach to the grounding screw.

Option C is I take a T fitting and use the same port as the coolant temperature sending unit. However, this too means that there could be an air bubble at that high point. Arg!

If I were to ever do this again, I would take a very different approach. The headaches I'm working around are partially my fault, but this is getting ridiculous, and more shade-tree by the minute. Any suggestions or input is so welcome right now.

Yes, I am griping, but I'm griping with hopes that anyone reading will learn from my mistakes.
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  #212  
Old 08-19-2016
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Any way you could have the sensor go off to the side towards the bottom to allow any air to escape? None should build up if you run it like that. As long as this won't interfere with anything else going on under your hood.
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  #213  
Old 08-19-2016
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I considered that, but ultimately I went by way of the upper radiator hose. Bought a 1 1/2 inch copper coupling, which I threaded a bushing into and soldered into place. Should have used a 1 1/4. Had to use a torch and knife to get the hoses on, carving some of the insides out, but it's on there securely so I'm happy. For a grounding post, I threaded in a 1/4 bolt and nut and soldered that in place to basically make a stud to which a grounding wire could be threaded to.

After that I refilled the radiator and went onto attempt to remove the fan clutch. After trying that, now I need a new water pump as the flange to which the pulley bolts to is broken.

Genius design, absolutely genius. /sarcasm

Buying a masterpro reman from oreilly. 40 bucks later......
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  #214  
Old 08-27-2016
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No further progress on the water pump. Don't have it yet and nor do I have the desire/time to work on it at this point in time. It'll wait for a while.

But, I'm thinking of something. I'm not happy with my second gen console. It looks nice, but it quickly shows it's flaws. It creaks like mad, for one thing. The pieces don't fit together quite right either. One of the switches have already burned out, and the aluminum plate I've made flexes horribly. All in all, im not satisfied.

I'm considering a 3rd gen center console like Fordzilla80 has along with a redesigned switch panel, possibly relocating them entirely with new switches, replacing the chrome push switches. Probably toggle switches.

The blue lights on the console will also be likely relocated to the footwells under the dash with some sort of plate. I'll have to look and see what I have to work with.

I'm not happy with what I have, and I can do better. I don't think the third generation console has any open slot I can use for cup holder lights though unfortuantely. Which I guess is OK, but I liked having those RGB strips there. I need to see a third gen in person, though.
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  #215  
Old 08-27-2016
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There isn't really any way to shine the light into the cupholders, but you could use LED strips glued around the walls of the cupholders.
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  #216  
Old 08-27-2016
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That's what I'll probably do if anything at all. Not a major thing, just one of those convinent things that's nice to have.
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  #217  
Old 08-28-2016
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Been away from this thread for a while. You simply amaze me with the projects you under take. I finally finished my lighting mods for the running lights Will post the photos when I can get photobucket figured out.
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  #218  
Old 08-28-2016
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Thank you! If you want to try a different platform, I prefer imgur.
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  #219  
Old 08-29-2016
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Well, I just noticed today that my tailpipe which I painted a while back looks AWFUL. the paint has faded severely and is coming off in specs. Needless to say, it needs some attention in one way or another. Obviously I need to use high heat paint. there's no way around it. I'm considering a chrome tip to make it look a bit better as well. I think I'll add the tip to my board of gift ideas so my friends and family aren't completely stumped come the holidays.

However, my undercarriage where I used the same paint is holding up wonderfully.
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  #220  
Old 09-03-2016
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Went out to my local salvage yard today and pulled this center console from a third generation explorer! Pics at the end.

It's all intact, save for a couple cracks in the lid to be glued, and it's all there except for one rubber mat. No biggie. Took it come, powerwashed it and used dawn with a brush to really get it clean. I swear, the owner of that car never used a bottle of 409 in her life..... Gag worthy.

Of course, this is much different from the 2nd gen console, and therefor it will not be setup the same. This time I'm not installing the blue lights in the side of the console. Instead, they will become floor lights from under the dash. No holes!

I'm also, I'm getting rid of the OEM switches as they're faulty. Last thing I want are faulty switches. I think it's the socket more than the switches themselves. One switch will control both doors, as well. I have momentary switches I can use in their place. The jumpseat lights I am also scrapping for various reasons. The radio button will stay, of course. The RGB strips in the tissue holder will be moved to the vents to shine out onto the floors while the dash lights are on. That's all I have for now, as I'm still developing. Stay tuned!




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Last edited by TheArcticWolf1911; 09-05-2016 at 09:13 PM.
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  #221  
Old 09-04-2016
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Nice!
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  #222  
Old 09-05-2016
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Hmm. Looks like my console photos have stopped working. Odd. I'll see if I can't fix that.

In other news, I just placed an order for six Autolight #103 copper plugs (the only copper spark plug listed for my 99) and a set of motorcraft spark plug wires. I also have a new water pump sitting idle until I get a chance to remove my damaged pump.

Speaking of pumps and fans, I unfortunately found out that the wire I pulled from an 03 Taurus was 10 gauge wire, not 9 gauge. Great. Same day I found my console, I looked again for 9 AWG. I found some, but for some stupid reason it later on splits into 10 AWG! Argh! I might bench test some ten gauge wire, see if it can handle the current. According to the chart, it shouldn't but for some reason Ford decided it was ok?
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  #223  
Old 09-05-2016
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I would bench test the wire. Weren't you saying something about running 8 AWG earlier? If you're worried about it, you could just run the 8.

Hey man kinda off topic, but how are you liking the LED headlights you have? I've been looking at a kit on superbrightleds.com and was wondering how they compare to HIDs.. I would get HIDs but I don't wanna be the ******* that blinds other drivers with my stock housings lol
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  #224  
Old 09-05-2016
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I was initially going to do the 8 AWG, but I tried to cheap out and get some wire from the junkers. Can't seem to find any pure 9 gauge there. May have to just suck it up and get 8 awg or something. Gah.

I haven't run my LED headlights in months. They're awful. The problem is, in reflector housings like you and I have, the light beam is entirely dependent on where the light is coming from. Microns of a difference can make or break this relationship. My headlights were no more than glorified flashlights with these with no highbeams to speak of.

I'm running nighthawk platinum 9007s and I love them to pieces. If these aren't good enough for an application, no halogen is. They're on amazon for like, 30 bucks or something.
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  #225  
Old 09-05-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheArcticWolf1911 View Post
I was initially going to do the 8 AWG, but I tried to cheap out and get some wire from the junkers. Can't seem to find any pure 9 gauge there. May have to just suck it up and get 8 awg or something. Gah.

I haven't run my LED headlights in months. They're awful. The problem is, in reflector housings like you and I have, the light beam is entirely dependent on where the light is coming from. Microns of a difference can make or break this relationship. My headlights were no more than glorified flashlights with these with no highbeams to speak of.

I'm running nighthawk platinum 9007s and I love them to pieces. If these aren't good enough for an application, no halogen is. They're on amazon for like, 30 bucks or something.
Glad I read that before I dropped 100 bucks. Thanks man!
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