Letting cat out of the bag, but it's been no secret for ....
#1
Letting cat out of the bag, but it's been no secret for ....
...a long time coming.
RCD, deavers, and new rims are set to go on this Saturday. Pics (maybe vid if I bring my old digi cam) will be available as soon as I have the time to post them.
FWIW, the big aspect of this project will be to see whether we can run the deaver F31s (7-pack 2.5" lift leave springs) without blocks or if any additional lifting will be needed. I'm thinking worse case scenario I'll need 1" blocks with the RCD shackle and deavers.
Current options/configurations factoring in are...
1. RCD stock kit for rear is AAL, axle shims, and RCD GIGANTIC shackle used with factory 2.5" lift block.
2. Deaver F31s, minus factory blocks, plus RCD shackle and shims.
3. Deaver F31s, RCD shims, factory blocks and OEM shackle
4. Deaver F31s, RCD shackle and shims, and a 1 inch block.
All I know is I'm excited 2 fold because 1. I'm finally getting this done, and 2. I'll bee seeing my gf and her family for the first time since Memorial weekend. I'll also have a maiden wheeling trip later next week.
My only worries right now is needing to replace ball joints. I had them checked about 2 months ago and they were fine. I do plan to replace them in the near future with MOOG parts.
RCD, deavers, and new rims are set to go on this Saturday. Pics (maybe vid if I bring my old digi cam) will be available as soon as I have the time to post them.
FWIW, the big aspect of this project will be to see whether we can run the deaver F31s (7-pack 2.5" lift leave springs) without blocks or if any additional lifting will be needed. I'm thinking worse case scenario I'll need 1" blocks with the RCD shackle and deavers.
Current options/configurations factoring in are...
1. RCD stock kit for rear is AAL, axle shims, and RCD GIGANTIC shackle used with factory 2.5" lift block.
2. Deaver F31s, minus factory blocks, plus RCD shackle and shims.
3. Deaver F31s, RCD shims, factory blocks and OEM shackle
4. Deaver F31s, RCD shackle and shims, and a 1 inch block.
All I know is I'm excited 2 fold because 1. I'm finally getting this done, and 2. I'll bee seeing my gf and her family for the first time since Memorial weekend. I'll also have a maiden wheeling trip later next week.
My only worries right now is needing to replace ball joints. I had them checked about 2 months ago and they were fine. I do plan to replace them in the near future with MOOG parts.
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#13
pics coming shortly...
just a brief message as I'm at work.
Took 3 full days of us blazing through everything. The guy that helped me has 25+ years exprience on jets and ~30+ on vehicles. We had air tools, etc and it still took us 3 days. Those reading of it taking 7 to 8 hours - if you're REALLY experienced in doing this stuff maybe. If you choose to install the kit yourself like I did, plan for 2-4 days MINIMUM! Between myself and the experienced guy helping me we had 76 man hours in working on the truck - that inlcuded the welding as well.
RCD needs to list ALL torque settings, not just saying reference ford specs. It also didn't help with me forgetting my Haynes manual, but none the less!
Rear end is great, but I have some shackle rubbing due to length of RCD shackle and class III hitch mounting plates. Currently working on a fix for this that will allow me to retain the RCD shackles.
EDIT re: shackle rub....just for clarification, the shackle is not the issue, but rather the shackle-to-leaf spring bolt. The bolt head is rubbing on the mounting bracket for the trailer hitch.
The deavers are sweet, and the truck responds much better without lift blocks in place. Having not axle wrap and virtually instant traction is awesome. It's night and day vs the OEM set-up!
It says it in the instructions, but MAKE SURE YOUR BALL JOINTS AND TIE RODS ARE GOOD BEFORE the install. I had mine "checked" 2 weeks prior to install and wound up spending 6.5 hours and $530.00 in Santa Fe, NM at Big-O tires because they had to replace my lower ball joints and driver side tie rod. They refused to honor the alignment unless I had these replaced. FWIW I had about 1/4-3/8 inch movement on my driver's side lower ball joint. I had planned to replace ALL my ball joints at the end of the month myself. So much for that idea. The cool thing is that the new ones are greaseable, so now I just have to get greaseable joints for that wasn't replaced.
Overall the kit handles so much more awesome over the stock suspension. I like the ride height and my gf was the first to comment about how much smoother the ride felt, especially when we were driving over some wash boarding on a dirt road.
I will say this, RCD needs to fire their technical writter for the order of some of the instructions, plus the torque comment earlier. The instructions are good, but they should, in my opinion, be literally a mini-manual given the fact that you're replacing the entire front suspension. I plan to do a more thorough write-up later. Right now I'm still trying to get oriented back to work and being home. Lots to do!
just a brief message as I'm at work.
Took 3 full days of us blazing through everything. The guy that helped me has 25+ years exprience on jets and ~30+ on vehicles. We had air tools, etc and it still took us 3 days. Those reading of it taking 7 to 8 hours - if you're REALLY experienced in doing this stuff maybe. If you choose to install the kit yourself like I did, plan for 2-4 days MINIMUM! Between myself and the experienced guy helping me we had 76 man hours in working on the truck - that inlcuded the welding as well.
RCD needs to list ALL torque settings, not just saying reference ford specs. It also didn't help with me forgetting my Haynes manual, but none the less!
Rear end is great, but I have some shackle rubbing due to length of RCD shackle and class III hitch mounting plates. Currently working on a fix for this that will allow me to retain the RCD shackles.
EDIT re: shackle rub....just for clarification, the shackle is not the issue, but rather the shackle-to-leaf spring bolt. The bolt head is rubbing on the mounting bracket for the trailer hitch.
The deavers are sweet, and the truck responds much better without lift blocks in place. Having not axle wrap and virtually instant traction is awesome. It's night and day vs the OEM set-up!
It says it in the instructions, but MAKE SURE YOUR BALL JOINTS AND TIE RODS ARE GOOD BEFORE the install. I had mine "checked" 2 weeks prior to install and wound up spending 6.5 hours and $530.00 in Santa Fe, NM at Big-O tires because they had to replace my lower ball joints and driver side tie rod. They refused to honor the alignment unless I had these replaced. FWIW I had about 1/4-3/8 inch movement on my driver's side lower ball joint. I had planned to replace ALL my ball joints at the end of the month myself. So much for that idea. The cool thing is that the new ones are greaseable, so now I just have to get greaseable joints for that wasn't replaced.
Overall the kit handles so much more awesome over the stock suspension. I like the ride height and my gf was the first to comment about how much smoother the ride felt, especially when we were driving over some wash boarding on a dirt road.
I will say this, RCD needs to fire their technical writter for the order of some of the instructions, plus the torque comment earlier. The instructions are good, but they should, in my opinion, be literally a mini-manual given the fact that you're replacing the entire front suspension. I plan to do a more thorough write-up later. Right now I'm still trying to get oriented back to work and being home. Lots to do!
Last edited by Lefty04LevelII; 07-07-2007 at 02:18 PM.
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#18
no front suspension (no the weight of the caliper is not on the breakline)....
no rear, deavers waiting...
RCD shackle-to-spring bolt issue. I flipped the bolt so that now the bolt head faces inward. I haven't had a chance to, but I want/need to call RCD to see what they suggest. Maybe a shackle flip?
working on the welds......
All I have for now unfortunately. 96% of the time I was the one doing the wrenching on the truck. Learned a lot and given how dirty I was, plus borrowing someone else's time to assist me, I didn't feel too obligated to get photos while they worked. So I snuck pics in during breaks (not often) or in this case while welds were going in.
no rear, deavers waiting...
RCD shackle-to-spring bolt issue. I flipped the bolt so that now the bolt head faces inward. I haven't had a chance to, but I want/need to call RCD to see what they suggest. Maybe a shackle flip?
working on the welds......
All I have for now unfortunately. 96% of the time I was the one doing the wrenching on the truck. Learned a lot and given how dirty I was, plus borrowing someone else's time to assist me, I didn't feel too obligated to get photos while they worked. So I snuck pics in during breaks (not often) or in this case while welds were going in.
#21
Originally Posted by Lefty04LevelII
RCD shackle-to-spring bolt issue. I flipped the bolt so that now the bolt head faces inward. I haven't had a chance to, but I want/need to call RCD to see what they suggest. Maybe a shackle flip?
#22
#23
Originally Posted by zabeard
lookin good
new wheels and tires yet?
new wheels and tires yet?
...line-x the rock panels and lower half of body line (TIRED of my paint being chipped by rocks)
...new front bumper and skid (might go with the DBR front end), but want to retain the fog lamps (they are VERY handing when I'm road cruising at night for snakes)
...if I go 35s it'll be either a bl or glass [front and pulled bedsides] so I can fit the 35s.
...JBA headers and torn on flowmaster 40 or 44 exhaust. I may go 44 since there isn't much room for dual exhaust with spare, class III hitch, and leaf springs taking up space.
But for now I'm on my 33x10.50x15 BFG muds (about 65-70% tread left so I may be getting new BFG muds before end of year) on Eagle Alloy Series 185.
BEFORE - 1 in t-bar crank, OEM suspension, 33x10.50x15 BFG MTs on Alcoas 15x7s (pic from day they were mounted), and no grill guard...
AFTER - RCD conversion up front + deaver leaf springs F31 7-pack; minus oem shackles and lift blocks, and 33x10.50x15 BFG MTs on EA Series 185 15x8s, and "approach angle reducer" back on
I need to crank the coils up about 1-1.5 inches. From ground to top of flare is 38.5 (front) and 40.5 (rear) inches. Being lifted I don't mind the "ranger rake" as much as when stock, but I'd still like it level or close to it. There's PLENTY of threaded body left on the coils to crank them. Which brings me to I need to get some eibach coil springs, I believe I was looking at 700lbs. And also need the SL front DS.
Ranger.....
the above is the only after pic. See u-bolt pic about....the u-bolts are going anyway.....spacers in pic are made out of my OEM rear spring bushing sleeves cut to 1.5inch so that I could secure the spring perch plate on top of the springs. The OEM u-bolts short enough, or rahter the threaded body on them doesn't extend long enough. Aaron at DBR is sending me some u-bolts that'll hopefully do the trick. Otherwise I'll have to call deaver. Thus, as a result, I'm hesitant on testing out the flex of the truck, or rahter flex of the deavers. So far that I'm SUPER FREAK'N pleased with the ride quality, both front and rear!
Last edited by Lefty04LevelII; 07-12-2007 at 03:55 PM.