lifted97ranger's auto to manual swap.....
#127
Congrats on your installation, Maurice!
I would assume that it is a factory Ford part. The dealer installed it under warranty and I never saw it until I pulled the transmission.
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
lol.....i am guessing that is a stock slave.....since it was Bob's old transmission (out of his Level II), i doubt he put junk parts in there.
#132
#133
Originally Posted by crhaack
so why didnt you just leave the full length expo console in? i put one in my 95 and the only place it hits is when i go into reverse, and then it barely touches it. with that level 2 shift arm you should be able to clear the console no problem.
#135
#137
as long as you have a 4wd manual transmission, then the electric shift transfer case will bolt up like normal. there is no different transfer cases from an automatic to a manual.
#139
#141
You won't need to do any modification to the transfer case or the shift on the fly electronics for it. ALL Ranger transfer cases have the same bolting pattern. You will have to take the transfer case out to swap the transmissions.
4.0 4wd manual transmissions are harder to find is what we are saying.
You will need the EXACt same parts as I listed in the first post and nothing more
4.0 4wd manual transmissions are harder to find is what we are saying.
You will need the EXACt same parts as I listed in the first post and nothing more
#143
I know this is an old thread, but i need some info. Anyone know if you can use the auto tranny harness??? Im trying to get the last bit of parts for the m/t swap so i can be done with it! thanks in advance
edit: if you can use the auto harness, what all has to be rewired/removed?
edit: if you can use the auto harness, what all has to be rewired/removed?
Last edited by NicksterSVT; 12-11-2008 at 09:10 AM.
#144
The auto harness just has a bunch of unneeded wires compared to the manual. As far as I can see, it should be plug and play except the reverse light switch. Get the correct connector for the manual reverse switch and splice to the auto harness's reverse wires and you should be good to go. Also, the OSS (speed sensor) is a few inches farther back on the manual than the auto so you might possibly need to splice in a short extension to it 2 wires or maybe not. The oxygen sensor connectors are in the same relative position and should plug right in.
#145
i just finished the swap and all i did was cross 2 wires on the origanal harness (i called my ford friend who i did work on his house he is my ford guru he has a mansion of a shop in his back yard that he works out of. its so cool im jealous, but enough of that so i called him told him the truck is not is not starting. he looked up the wireing diagram and told me whick wires to cross and sure enough is started) so my truck knew it was in park or nuetral so it could start and that was it. i have the rest it zip tied... i have no wires into my tranny so my reverse light does not work... im in the process of hooking up light in the rear and have a switch in the cab easy fix... and also now my transfer case does not know its in park stopped in nuetral, so i cannot switch into 4lo i can still use 4hi but when i need it i have ro remove the little motor on the back of the t-case to do so...
again i called my friend the guru and he said it was a pretty complicated thing... so im just going to get a manual tranfercase... kinda easy fix haha so yeah thats what i did... and i still have my old comp in my truck i have a check engine light on i have the manual comp under my seat just need to get it to ford or my guru so they can use there machine and match it too my key.. little sensor..
again i called my friend the guru and he said it was a pretty complicated thing... so im just going to get a manual tranfercase... kinda easy fix haha so yeah thats what i did... and i still have my old comp in my truck i have a check engine light on i have the manual comp under my seat just need to get it to ford or my guru so they can use there machine and match it too my key.. little sensor..
#146
Yup, I forgot about that one. You'll need to jump the P/N safety interlock that would be contolled by the Transmission Ranger Sensor in an automatic truck.
#147
The auto harness just has a bunch of unneeded wires compared to the manual. As far as I can see, it should be plug and play except the reverse light switch. Get the correct connector for the manual reverse switch and splice to the auto harness's reverse wires and you should be good to go. Also, the OSS (speed sensor) is a few inches farther back on the manual than the auto so you might possibly need to splice in a short extension to it 2 wires or maybe not. The oxygen sensor connectors are in the same relative position and should plug right in.
if you missed my project thread, here it is:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...=55141&page=13
thank you once again!
#148
#149
The automatic truck uses a 6-pin jumper that plugs into the harness in place of the CPP. With that in place, the CPP should be bypassed. In addition to losing the starter interlock, you'd also lose the speed control cancel feature of the CPP and the clutch input to the PCM.
However, since the 3 switches are independent inside the CPP, it would be possible to use the CPP and selectively disable one or more switches by jumpering without disabling them all.
However, since the 3 switches are independent inside the CPP, it would be possible to use the CPP and selectively disable one or more switches by jumpering without disabling them all.
#150
The automatic truck uses a 6-pin jumper that plugs into the harness in place of the CPP. With that in place, the CPP should be bypassed. In addition to losing the starter interlock, you'd also lose the speed control cancel feature of the CPP and the clutch input to the PCM.
However, since the 3 switches are independent inside the CPP, it would be possible to use the CPP and selectively disable one or more switches by jumpering without disabling them all.
However, since the 3 switches are independent inside the CPP, it would be possible to use the CPP and selectively disable one or more switches by jumpering without disabling them all.