Mid Travel Mtn Ranger.... - Page 10 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #226  
Old 05-29-2013
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I know that and softer springs are next...just cycling it showed me how much bump travel I have so I may be doing those sooner...it may look narrow to cause I used it to lift a little
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  #227  
Old 05-29-2013
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who knows. i heard kartek has poly fenders. maybe check those out?
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  #228  
Old 05-29-2013
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I've seen those too, thinking it may be worth a try, but I want to see a set on a ranger for fitment and how it looks, but then you would have to paint them and time they get bent in
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  #229  
Old 05-29-2013
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Looks really good. Sleeper status!
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  #230  
Old 05-29-2013
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Thanks Adrian, that's what IM going for, just need fenders and 33s, better rims, build the back end up. I may build the front end more but IM not sure, IM happy with everything but the spring rate. Maybe heims and run dual 2.0 shocks each side and be happy with 10" of travel up front
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  #231  
Old 05-30-2013
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Here's some width pics, kinda not sure it's 4 1/2 over may lower it down some but I don't get it
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Mid Travel Mtn Ranger....-2013-05-30-17.57.36.jpg   Mid Travel Mtn Ranger....-2013-05-30-17.56.51.jpg   Mid Travel Mtn Ranger....-2013-05-30-17.56.36.jpg  
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  #232  
Old 05-30-2013
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Some 15x8s with a 3.75bs and 35x12.50s will make all the Difference
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  #233  
Old 05-30-2013
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Not sure I want 35s, I dd my truck slot and take it on the highway, IM thinking 4x4s and a regear how's your truck on the highway and mileage. Also wanna keep it sleeper looking, I like stealthy looking trucks
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  #234  
Old 06-17-2013
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I just picked mine up from Brandon on Friday. Running 285/75/16 on 16x8 with 4" BS



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  #235  
Old 06-18-2013
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What width glass is on yours, saw the pics on Dr, looks good for sure. Brandon does great work. Finally got my crossbar from BTF and got it aligned in my driveway. The crossbar really stiffened it all up, in a good way. Feels tighter up front, now to save up for more mods
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  #236  
Old 06-18-2013
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6" glassworks
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  #237  
Old 06-19-2013
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Can you post a side shot. Id like to see how the 33s fill out your fenders,
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  #238  
Old 06-20-2013
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Little updates, BTF crossbar on, Hurst t shift ****, expo Bezel needs paint, and cut some holes in valance and remounted it
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Mid Travel Mtn Ranger....-2013-06-20-13.55.03.jpg   Mid Travel Mtn Ranger....-2013-06-20-13.53.54.jpg   Mid Travel Mtn Ranger....-2013-06-20-13.53.25.jpg   Mid Travel Mtn Ranger....-2013-06-20-13.52.10.jpg  
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  #239  
Old 06-20-2013
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What shock and coil combo are you running. It might just be the picture, but here are a couple of concerns that I see:

1) Coil looks to be really short and compressed. Do you get coil bind before the truck reaches full bump?
2) Limit strap looks close to maxed out at ride height. Do you have any droop travel?
3) I would recommend finding a better way to route your brake lines, they look like they are just waiting for a branch or some road debris to reach up an yank them out.

Otherwise, congratulations on the kit. LT is expensive but fun.
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  #240  
Old 06-20-2013
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For now IM running the coilover conversion upper bracket and 5" 2.0 fox emulsion coilovers. More of midtravel for now, someday full long travel. It's a 10" 700 lb spring and it binds way before full bump, not sure which way to go on this. I want a softer cool cause it's stiff in some places but not sure it'll help much. As for down travel I have a couple inches, not sure if factory extended CVs will pull the numbers they are supposed to cause the bind up with out much more than 4" of droop travel, and I need to find a way to route my brakelines up higher. IM hoping someone can help me out with what I need to know. Thanks for the props, love the kit, just needs some work to get it right, makes it hard being so far away from where people build these trucks
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  #241  
Old 06-20-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BACKCOUNTRYEDGE02 View Post
For now IM running the coilover conversion upper bracket and 5" 2.0 fox emulsion coilovers. More of midtravel for now, someday full long travel. It's a 10" 700 lb spring and it binds way before full bump, not sure which way to go on this. I want a softer cool cause it's stiff in some places but not sure it'll help much. As for down travel I have a couple inches, not sure if factory extended CVs will pull the numbers they are supposed to cause the bind up with out much more than 4" of droop travel, and I need to find a way to route my brakelines up higher. IM hoping someone can help me out with what I need to know. Thanks for the props, love the kit, just needs some work to get it right, makes it hard being so far away from where people build these trucks
I am not sure how the 2.5" (2.0" shock) coil compares to the 3.0" (2.5" shock) coil. I had to run a much heavier coil on my RCD lift which ran a 2.5" coil. On my Ranger with the DBR kit I ran a 700# coil and it was fine.

Remember the purpose of the coil is to hold the truck at ride height. Ideally your coil should hold the truck at ride height with and 1" or less of preload (the less the better). If you are putting more preload than that into your coil, you need a heavier rated coil.

Also, a general rule of thumb is that your coil length should be the shock travel x 2 plus 2". This will generally require that you use a coil compressor to seat the coil hat. Your shock may or may not allow for this since it is a conversion shock.

To improve the ride quality, you should look into your valving. Adding a flutter stack or removing the free bleed screws will help to soften the ride on the street, but will also increase body roll. Honestly, at this point I would recommend that you deal with the ride quality and save your money for a set of 2.5" 8" stroke coil overs. No sense spending money on valving and new coils when that money could go towards the new shocks that will better serve your setup. I am sure that Brandon at BTF could make some valving recommendations once you are ready to purchase new shocks.

As for the brake line, try mount the line so that it points upwards at the knuckle. As I recall we also put a twist in the line to help space the line away from the upper arm. Here is a picture.



Hope this helps.
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  #242  
Old 06-20-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BACKCOUNTRYEDGE02 View Post
Can you post a side shot. Id like to see how the 33s fill out your fenders,
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  #243  
Old 06-20-2013
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Thanks turmoil looks good, I'll be doin fenders and a new wheel/tire combo at the same time in about a year. And thanks a bunch Matt that helps slot I'll start with some of your tips, IM guessing we don't get much in terms of droop travel do we, just seems like I don't have much
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  #244  
Old 06-20-2013
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Can I see how Brandon set up your shock hoop and how he ran everything turmoil, somewhere down the road I'll upgrade, I just want to see your front suspension setup
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  #245  
Old 06-20-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quasi242 View Post
I am not sure how the 2.5" (2.0" shock) coil compares to the 3.0" (2.5" shock) coil. I had to run a much heavier coil on my RCD lift which ran a 2.5" coil. On my Ranger with the DBR kit I ran a 700# coil and it was fine.

Remember the purpose of the coil is to hold the truck at ride height. Ideally your coil should hold the truck at ride height with and 1" or less of preload (the less the better). If you are putting more preload than that into your coil, you need a heavier rated coil.

Also, a general rule of thumb is that your coil length should be the shock travel x 2 plus 2". This will generally require that you use a coil compressor to seat the coil hat. Your shock may or may not allow for this since it is a conversion shock.

To improve the ride quality, you should look into your valving. Adding a flutter stack or removing the free bleed screws will help to soften the ride on the street, but will also increase body roll. Honestly, at this point I would recommend that you deal with the ride quality and save your money for a set of 2.5" 8" stroke coil overs. No sense spending money on valving and new coils when that money could go towards the new shocks that will better serve your setup. I am sure that Brandon at BTF could make some valving recommendations once you are ready to purchase new shocks.

As for the brake line, try mount the line so that it points upwards at the knuckle. As I recall we also put a twist in the line to help space the line away from the upper arm. Here is a picture.



Hope this helps.
Matt I didnt realize you ran a 700 coil. I think thats something I need to change on mine. I have a 650 and it's way too soft. I loved my ride height and feel at just around or a little less than an inch of preload. but it bottomed out way too much and was super soft my last time out. I cranked some more preload for the rest of the weekend but that just made it too bouncy after big hits.

sorry to get nosey in your thread just getting in to the conversation

And Andrew I don't think you'll gain much droop unless you go to a larger coilover like Matt was saying. You need to be able to sit at ride height a little more in the middle of your travel. how cranked are your coils? maybe you can crank them back some to lower the ride height and gain some droop for now. Otherwise you'll be banging off those straps quite a bit and it will feel kinda harsh.
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  #246  
Old 06-20-2013
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Mid Travel Mtn Ranger....-img_5482_zps7b08ccb5.jpg   Mid Travel Mtn Ranger....-20130620_193435_zps13f5bba9.jpg   Mid Travel Mtn Ranger....-20130620_193534_zpse9f6c3f5.jpg   Mid Travel Mtn Ranger....-20130620_193551_zps1dfb5f99.jpg  
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  #247  
Old 06-20-2013
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looks great steven! what kinda numbers does it pull?
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  #248  
Old 06-20-2013
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When Brandon cycled it, it was 14" metal to metal with the axles. Its bumped and strapped around 12.5"
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  #249  
Old 06-20-2013
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nice,not bad at all
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  #250  
Old 06-20-2013
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#1 I might be selling my 2.5x10" radflos soon as they do not properly suit the dixon kit if you are interested

#2 i found a guy who can get the 930 dixon cv's which net 2" more droop than stockers.

#3 save your pennies! New shocks and cv's will be an entirely new truck :)
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