tjtheman007's 3.0 Ranger
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tjtheman007's 3.0 Ranger
This is a project thread to follow tjtheman007's black 3.0 Ranger.
First up - The Engine replacement:
So, the time has come. I am replacing the engine in the Ranger.
Last weekend I was driving down the highway and lost all oil pressure. I went to accelerate and I hear a loud scratching coming from the engine. Long story short- I toasted my engine also. I new it was burning oil and It may have gotten a little to low. (The wife was driving it mostly. Her Lumina blew a head gasket - My driveway is turning into a junk yard)
It just so happened the the wife and I just moved from an apartment(with no garage and only street/alley parking) to a (huge) house with a 2 1/2 heated garage (For $80 more a month!!!!)
...So begins my project...
My existing engine is a 3.0 and has 165,000 miles. I debated what to to. I really wanted to do a V8 swap... but being that the wife and I are now car-pooling in a 1990 GMC Sierra that was gifted to us (It need a lot of work, but runs), we kinda need a 2nd vehicle asap. being that we just moved, money is kinda tight.
Anyway, onto the project: I have a 3.0 from 2000 Ranger sitting in my garage. I picked it up for $450 locally. I dont have to turn in my old engine, nor did I have to pull it myself. It also came with a 90 day warranty.
here are some questions:
Besides the intake manifold, what else needs to switched over from my 95 3.0 to the 2000 3.0??
-Thanks for any help and advice.
I am also doing a time lapse video that I will post at the completion of the project to see what was done.
Now on to pictures:
The new engine:
First up - The Engine replacement:
So, the time has come. I am replacing the engine in the Ranger.
Last weekend I was driving down the highway and lost all oil pressure. I went to accelerate and I hear a loud scratching coming from the engine. Long story short- I toasted my engine also. I new it was burning oil and It may have gotten a little to low. (The wife was driving it mostly. Her Lumina blew a head gasket - My driveway is turning into a junk yard)
It just so happened the the wife and I just moved from an apartment(with no garage and only street/alley parking) to a (huge) house with a 2 1/2 heated garage (For $80 more a month!!!!)
...So begins my project...
My existing engine is a 3.0 and has 165,000 miles. I debated what to to. I really wanted to do a V8 swap... but being that the wife and I are now car-pooling in a 1990 GMC Sierra that was gifted to us (It need a lot of work, but runs), we kinda need a 2nd vehicle asap. being that we just moved, money is kinda tight.
Anyway, onto the project: I have a 3.0 from 2000 Ranger sitting in my garage. I picked it up for $450 locally. I dont have to turn in my old engine, nor did I have to pull it myself. It also came with a 90 day warranty.
here are some questions:
Besides the intake manifold, what else needs to switched over from my 95 3.0 to the 2000 3.0??
-Thanks for any help and advice.
I am also doing a time lapse video that I will post at the completion of the project to see what was done.
Now on to pictures:
The new engine:
Last edited by tjtheman007; 08-31-2011 at 11:49 PM. Reason: pictures didnt work
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So i figured I'd give an update:
The following is disconnected:
- exhaust (only broke 2 out of the 4 bolts)
- torque converter
- power steering and A/C compressor along with their corresponding bracket
- Air intake
- fuel lines (sending and receiving lines)
- motor mounts
- 2 heater hoses
- upper radiator hose
What is next to do:
- loosen trans bolts (all 6 of them)
- remove/move to the side alternator and bracket
- label and remove all the wires on the harness from the block
Almost there. This is pretty good for all on my own and starting this past Monday evening after work till now.
What will need to happen after the engine is removed:
- Swap the old fuel rail and injectors onto the new engine
- install flex plate
- finish drilling out rusty exhaust bolts on the new block (3 bolts)
- finish installing new spark plugs
The following is disconnected:
- exhaust (only broke 2 out of the 4 bolts)
- torque converter
- power steering and A/C compressor along with their corresponding bracket
- Air intake
- fuel lines (sending and receiving lines)
- motor mounts
- 2 heater hoses
- upper radiator hose
What is next to do:
- loosen trans bolts (all 6 of them)
- remove/move to the side alternator and bracket
- label and remove all the wires on the harness from the block
Almost there. This is pretty good for all on my own and starting this past Monday evening after work till now.
What will need to happen after the engine is removed:
- Swap the old fuel rail and injectors onto the new engine
- install flex plate
- finish drilling out rusty exhaust bolts on the new block (3 bolts)
- finish installing new spark plugs
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yeah, taking out the old motor did take some time.
I wanted to be careful so as to not have the torque converter lose it's seal on the trans. I also forgot to disconnect the ground wire and the bracket that holds the trans cooler lines to the engine block.
Its out and the new one will be going in this weekend. Tomorrow is the scheduled day for that.
I wanted to be careful so as to not have the torque converter lose it's seal on the trans. I also forgot to disconnect the ground wire and the bracket that holds the trans cooler lines to the engine block.
Its out and the new one will be going in this weekend. Tomorrow is the scheduled day for that.
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So i have a little issue with the Cam Syncro sensor. I dont know how big of an issue or if I should switch the old one over but my cam syncro is way different.
On the old engine the syncro's gate is larger and makes a semi circle but the new engine's syncro is just a little gate. Im scared to switch them for fear of messing up the calibration. I know those have to go in the exact same way that they came out. It tells the computer what cylinder is firing when.
SHould I leave it and try starting the engine (Once it is fully installed which WILL be today!) or should i switch them before starting it??
Here are pictures to show what I mean:
Old Syncro:
New Syncro:
Thanks for any help.
On the old engine the syncro's gate is larger and makes a semi circle but the new engine's syncro is just a little gate. Im scared to switch them for fear of messing up the calibration. I know those have to go in the exact same way that they came out. It tells the computer what cylinder is firing when.
SHould I leave it and try starting the engine (Once it is fully installed which WILL be today!) or should i switch them before starting it??
Here are pictures to show what I mean:
Old Syncro:
New Syncro:
Thanks for any help.
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Ok, so I think I figured out my own answer.
Status update as well:
Got the new engine finally dropped in and everything hooked up. New fluids in it and all.
Go to start it... it tries, but it rocks really weird. I think my first order of business on it tomorrow is to try switching out the Cam Syncro. I think that is causing the wrong cylinder to fire at the wrong time, causing it to shake very bad and not start.
- I am using the old computer, wiring harness, injectors, fuel rail
- I am using the new spark plug coil pack (should be the same thing as the old) New spark plugs, The drivers side exhaust manifold is just a little different than the old one, but that is only impacting my exhaust leak.
Also, noticed that I have an exhaust leak on the driver's side manifold where it connects to the down pipe. Any suggestions on how to fix that? any spacer/gasket I can put in there to seal that off?
Thanks all for any and all advice.
Here is the new engine in:
Status update as well:
Got the new engine finally dropped in and everything hooked up. New fluids in it and all.
Go to start it... it tries, but it rocks really weird. I think my first order of business on it tomorrow is to try switching out the Cam Syncro. I think that is causing the wrong cylinder to fire at the wrong time, causing it to shake very bad and not start.
- I am using the old computer, wiring harness, injectors, fuel rail
- I am using the new spark plug coil pack (should be the same thing as the old) New spark plugs, The drivers side exhaust manifold is just a little different than the old one, but that is only impacting my exhaust leak.
Also, noticed that I have an exhaust leak on the driver's side manifold where it connects to the down pipe. Any suggestions on how to fix that? any spacer/gasket I can put in there to seal that off?
Thanks all for any and all advice.
Here is the new engine in:
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