Project: Bronco 2 Rebuild/Restore - Page 3 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #51  
Old 09-06-2009
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Just thought I'd update this. Changed the fuel filter today, alot of siltm in the lines, gonna drop the tank tomorrow and check it out.
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  #52  
Old 09-16-2009
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Well, actually did something today, changed the fuel pump, float sending unit and whatnot, then gutted the cat, sort of helped with the lagginess. Problem is it'll run great at first, then after it warms up it feels like it's gonna die, bucks like crazy and tends to stall. If somebody could post a picture of their actual vacuum lines it'd be great. This thing's proving to be a royal pain. Also, if anybody knows how to fix the CEL codes 51 and 67 it'd be great.
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  #53  
Old 09-17-2009
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Have you posted over at www.therangersation.com? There are a lot of knowledgeable people over there who may be able to help you out.
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  #54  
Old 09-17-2009
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According to the code reader manual I have:
Code 51 = ECT sensor out of range indicated / circuit open
Code 67 = (Trucks only)Air conditioning compressor clutch switch fault

ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature sensor or circuit

Code 51 ECT high Bad ECT, sticking thermostat, low coolant, clogged converter. (someone else will have to explain to both of us about the clogged converter, I had no idea there was one in the cooling system, unless they are talking about the radiator)

Did a "Google search" for OBD 1 code 67 as the data sheet I have to tell what the fix might be doesn't list that code.
So the code for a car seems to have something to do with the neutral safety switch and according to other sources, the code is the same for trucks. So I got no idea what the code actually is for, but I will send you to this site to make your own conclusion, as the folks there are the answer for most of our B II problems. You might want to look through their tech library & forum while you are there. OBD-I Diagnostic Trouble Codes
If you do the search for OBD 1 code 67 on your favorite search engine, you will come up with a lot of information on the subject.
Keep us posted as to the progress.
I located this site a couple minutes ago, looks like something you might be interested in: http://www.broncoii.org/techpages/eeciv/index.htm

Ray

Last edited by Clem; 09-17-2009 at 09:00 AM.
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  #55  
Old 09-19-2009
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Ok, so I got rid of the CEL, changed the coolant sensor and it's all good. Gutted the cat and that seemed to lively the motor up a bit. It still bogs until it hits 2600 rpm, now I have a new question. It makes peak torque at 2600 rpm, could it be bogging because it has 3.45 gears and 30" tires? I know it's heavily undergeared so I'm thinking that might be my problem. At high rpms there's no lagging, delay or bogging.
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  #56  
Old 09-19-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Igobytwitch View Post
Ok, so I got rid of the CEL, changed the coolant sensor and it's all good. Gutted the cat and that seemed to lively the motor up a bit. It still bogs until it hits 2600 rpm, now I have a new question. It makes peak torque at 2600 rpm, could it be bogging because it has 3.45 gears and 30" tires? I know it's heavily undergeared so I'm thinking that might be my problem. At high rpms there's no lagging, delay or bogging.
Mine does the same thing when it gets warmed up. Kind of laggy I guess is how I would explain it. Like it's not getting enough fuel or something.
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  #57  
Old 09-19-2009
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Yeah, that's a good way to put it. I'm still trying to find input on that. At least it's driveable now
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  #58  
Old 09-19-2009
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It only does it on mine when it gets warmed up. I know these things trap alot of heat under the hood and doesn't have the best airflow setup. I'm thinking of putting an Efan under the hood or gettin a CAI with louvers.
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  #59  
Old 09-19-2009
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Seeing as they came stock with 205/75/15's, which are about 28" OD, I think that might be part of the problem.
The 31's should probably have 4.10's to get the optimum performance out of your 2.9. Those tall tires are putting a real strain on your engine and drive train, and your fuel economy in city will really show how much power it takes to get the tires to roll. On the highway, you could be getting 19 or 20 MPG so long as you can keep it steady and don't have to climb hills, (do they have those in Florida?). look at the door sticker and see what size tires came on your B2, then try to find a set for cheap and see how it does.
I know those tall tires look good, but they are killing your performance.

Ray
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  #60  
Old 09-20-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clem View Post
Seeing as they came stock with 205/75/15's, which are about 28" OD, I think that might be part of the problem.
The 31's should probably have 4.10's to get the optimum performance out of your 2.9. Those tall tires are putting a real strain on your engine and drive train, and your fuel economy in city will really show how much power it takes to get the tires to roll. On the highway, you could be getting 19 or 20 MPG so long as you can keep it steady and don't have to climb hills, (do they have those in Florida?). look at the door sticker and see what size tires came on your B2, then try to find a set for cheap and see how it does.
I know those tall tires look good, but they are killing your performance.

Ray
Mine came with 235s stock, and that's whats on it now with 3.45s. I get 23-26 mpg
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  #61  
Old 09-20-2009
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Yes, mine came with 205's, Dave's came with 195's, George's came with 235's, and Steve's came with 215's (I think that right) x 14. Steve's is the only B2 I have ever seen with stock 14" rims.
Mine is an 86, two others are 87's and the last is an 88, that's the one with14" rims and it had 3.73's, the rest had 3.45's.
Go figure.
All I am implying is that the 31's are to big for the 3.45 gears, your 235's are still an inch or more shorter.
How many clutches have you replaced with that combination? If George was wheeling in the mountains a lot, clutches didn't last, he spent the money and bought a lifetime warranted set after the second clutch, it saved him a lot over the years.
The shorter tires had a lot better clutch longevity, I only remember replacing the others once or twice in 7 to 10 years, (except when Dave's son got his drivers license, then we did 2 in less than a month).
Look at the array of tire sizes on Rangers over the years, and what gearing they had.

Ray
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  #62  
Old 09-20-2009
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Alright, so it could be the gears. Thanks. Looks like I'll be looking for a first gen Exploder 4x4 to get the suspension from sooner than i though
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  #63  
Old 09-20-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Igobytwitch View Post
Alright, so it could be the gears. Thanks. Looks like I'll be looking for a first gen Exploder 4x4 to get the suspension from sooner than i though
the shock mounts for a expo are at an angle going towards the center of the car.

I was going to get an expo rear end then I saw how much work would go into it, so I'm just going to rebuild my carrier with new clutches for the l/s

I also have 30's and my 3.73's do just fine.
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  #64  
Old 09-20-2009
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I'd have the perches and all rewelded, I just know this dinky 7.5 rear and 28 front aren't gonna hold up very long
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  #65  
Old 09-20-2009
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The spring perches on the Explorer are on the bottom of the axle. The shock mounts on the 92 I bought, were part of the spring plates.
The B 2 has shocks setup the same as the Ranger and the Ranger spring perches are in the right locale, be it a 1 1/2" wider. I can narrow up the Ranger perches by adding a piece of square tube, coped to fit the axle tube and split lengthwise, giving me both sides to weld to the differential side of the perch, and while I am there, weld up the hole for the spring bolt. Then drill a new spring bolt hole for the correct width.
I can live with the 28 spline axles, they will stand everything my 4.0 OHV can put out.
The 92 Explorer front is a direct bolt in, but you may need a camber kit.
The camber kit is for the changes the front end will experience in the B 2, there is about 800 lbs. difference between my B 2 and the 92 Explorer.

Ray
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  #66  
Old 09-20-2009
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The front driveshaft will have to be shortened to put a D35 in there.
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  #67  
Old 09-20-2009
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Thanks for the input, I've been reading up alot on it. I just figure it isn't worth regearing the axles that're in it, might as well get some stronger axles while I'm at it
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  #68  
Old 09-20-2009
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3.73 limited slip 7.5 ftw.

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  #69  
Old 09-21-2009
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I haven't gotten to the drive line, but see as it came from an Explorer 4 door with an auto, I would imagine both with have to be shortened. If can find a Explorer with a manual trans and transfer I may be able to get a front drive line that will fit, but the rear will probably end up at the machine shop. Mosat of the Explorer Sports I find are auto and the rear drive line is really short. When I get to that bridge I will figure out what I have to do.
Thanks for the input.

Ray
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  #70  
Old 09-21-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clem View Post
I haven't gotten to the drive line, but see as it came from an Explorer 4 door with an auto, I would imagine both with have to be shortened. If can find a Explorer with a manual trans and transfer I may be able to get a front drive line that will fit, but the rear will probably end up at the machine shop. Mosat of the Explorer Sports I find are auto and the rear drive line is really short. When I get to that bridge I will figure out what I have to do.
Thanks for the input.

Ray
Are you just talking about swapping with the D35? Or are you talking about the 8.8 too?
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  #71  
Old 09-21-2009
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Well, the BII let me down today, died 20 miles away from home when i was with my girl, had to walk her the rest of the way home, then towed the bronco back with my dads f150 with a tow strap, quitting this project for now and fixing the Ranger like I should have in the first place
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  #72  
Old 10-22-2009
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Well, I washed it and vacuumed it today, put the battery back in it and fired it up. Might have 2 potential buyers for it tomorrow. I still can't figure out why the 2.9 sounds more beast than the 4.0 in the Ranger.
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  #73  
Old 10-22-2009
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Originally Posted by USMCFords View Post
Are you just talking about swapping with the D35? Or are you talking about the 8.8 too?
I am swapping D35 and 8.8 with engine/transmission/transfer case.
Also swapped the interior to 89-90 B2.
Have done away with the second fuel pump on the rail and the pump in the tank,with the wiring harness, is now out of an Explorer.
The complete wiring harness, engine/dash/interior/brake-tail lights, transmission/transfer case is also from the Explorer.
It has warn lock out hubs, with 3.73 gears and an l/s rear.
It probably won't run till next spring, as there is still much left to do and the days are getting shorter.
I thought that i might start a thread about this over the winter, we'll see how things go.
thanks for asking.
Twitch; hate to see you get rid of the B2, but if it has to go, so be it
By the folks, I am not trying to highjack this thread, I'll come back in the future and delete this post..

Ray
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  #74  
Old 11-19-2009
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UPDATE!
Sold the Bii 2 days ago
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