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Project Logs For detailed builds specific to the Ford Ranger, one thread per vehicle please.

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  #101  
Old 08-24-2010
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Right now rough lol. I need to lift it about another 3-4 inches. Every little bump she bottoms out and hits the engine mount. but other then that she is pretty good. The only thing that I can say that I would like is a sway bar of some kind. other then that she perfect.
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  #102  
Old 08-24-2010
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damn, looks good man! and that pic def clears up and speculation to the axle being off. Had a chance to test it out yet?
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  #103  
Old 08-24-2010
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No i need to put gears in to it and a front drive shaft. Be mid to end of september she will be flexed out.
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  #104  
Old 08-25-2010
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no, your axle still isnt centered. the pumpkin isnt in the middle...


LOL
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  #105  
Old 08-25-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bighair View Post
If you look at the license plate, it is not centered either. it's just the angle of the shot in respect to where he was standing when it took it..
Bumper isn't centered to the fenders... I saw that before and took note. What I'm looking at is how far the tire sticks out past the corner light.

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Originally Posted by rstangboi View Post
no, your axle still isnt centered. the pumpkin isnt in the middle...


LOL
***. Even after the new pic, I still don't think it's centered but I'm dropping it. He says it's centered, so I just gotta go by what he says.
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  #106  
Old 08-25-2010
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I will take pics for you tonight with a tape measure
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  #107  
Old 08-25-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
***. Even after the new pic, I still don't think it's centered but I'm dropping it. He says it's centered, so I just gotta go by what he says.
wat?! im super duper cereal bro!

if it was centered right, the pumkin would be right under the ford emblem and both tires would be PERFECTLY (in length) outside the fenders and the steering bar thingamajig would be on either both sides or in the center, and the steering box would be infront of the pulley assembly but behind the radiator and the steering wheel would be in the center like a mclaren.



thats wat shane wants...and even that axle isnt centered!! ohhh nooooosss!


/end LOL

Last edited by rstangboi; 08-25-2010 at 06:33 AM.
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  #108  
Old 08-25-2010
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Randy thank you for clarifying that. I dont why Shane did not just say that in the first place
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  #109  
Old 08-25-2010
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Randy thank you for clarifying that. I dont why Shane did not just say that in the first place
cuz hes got the mind of a turtle. wise but......hard to interprate....lol
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  #110  
Old 08-25-2010
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o... well thats good to know for future reference
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  #111  
Old 08-25-2010
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Hey just wondering if I can use a jeep drive shaft on my ranger now that the front axle has been pushed ahead. I know some guys have dont it just not sure how far forward they pushed there axle.
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  #112  
Old 08-25-2010
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i just used an explorer shaft and lengthened it at first......but now its all square.

youz gots teh coilz so you can use just the explorer shaft and lengthen it and it should work just fine for you....well as long as you got a manual tcase and a 1310 ujoint up front lol
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  #113  
Old 08-25-2010
 
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ya, swap the tcase would be a good IDea.. front yoke to the least. or get a dshaft made witht he neapco adapter... cheapest route would definatly be the yoke.. if you can find a manual case for cheap, I'd go that route.
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  #114  
Old 08-25-2010
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ya i have the electronic t case an d no clue what u joint i have
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  #115  
Old 08-25-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bighair View Post
ya, swap the tcase would be a good IDea.. front yoke to the least. or get a dshaft made witht he neapco adapter... cheapest route would definatly be the yoke.. if you can find a manual case for cheap, I'd go that route.
Ya thats the trick finding a used 1354M tcase that someone will actually sell. lol
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  #116  
Old 08-25-2010
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lol. good luck with the adapter....thers very few out there from my last search before i bought my manual tcase.

carpart.com....find one or search the pick n pulls....or upulls...in my area i can find one like once a week.

maybe......i should find one....get you the output....and get me some spare planetarys to play with lol...

just a thought.
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  #117  
Old 08-25-2010
 
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I have a guy here who says he can build a brand new shaft with adapter included for 250$.. that's a pretty good price for a brand new dshaft.. maybe just get the adapter and run a explorer dshaft..

Chris you don't have a yoke in the Tcase front now.. it's a CV type yoke.
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  #118  
Old 08-25-2010
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not bad at all.
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  #119  
Old 08-25-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bighair View Post
I have a guy here who says he can build a brand new shaft with adapter included for 250$.. that's a pretty good price for a brand new dshaft.. maybe just get the adapter and run a explorer dshaft..

Chris you don't have a yoke in the Tcase front now.. it's a CV type yoke.
Ya ok but i assumed that the u joint was only on the axle side of the shaft.
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  #120  
Old 08-25-2010
 
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ah, well on the axle side it's a 1310 ujoint..
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  #121  
Old 08-25-2010
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Does the jeep and explorer shaft have the same CV
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  #122  
Old 08-25-2010
 
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not CV. It's a double cardan joint on the Tcase end. I can't remember if it's a flange or yoke tho, it's been a while since I used one. the size of the ujoint differs on the year. if it's a pre 95 I'm pretty sure they are 1330 joints which are a bit weaker due to the extra length on the cross, as compared to a 1310, but have the same size caps. Post 95 explorers use teh 1310 style ujoints..

Don't quote me on this tho.. maybe someone here can chime in and confirm.

the Jeep XJ, TJ and some ZJ shafts are double cardan shafts with 1310 joints. they require a yoke at the tcase not a flange.
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  #123  
Old 08-25-2010
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ok seen
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  #124  
Old 08-30-2010
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IDK what trans you've got Reader, but I'd look into swapping in a manual Tcase from a '90-97 RBV. They'll have the 1310 adaptor already there....but you CANNOT go wrong with a manual tcase. 4wd anytime, all the time. And you can get it in and out of 4L faster than the next guy with the switch can get it into 4H.


bighair: 90-97's are all 1310. 1330 is rear shaft stuff from '98 on. Back to the front, the 1350 cases found in '89 and earlier are spline shafts.
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  #125  
Old 08-30-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
IDK what trans you've got Reader, but I'd look into swapping in a manual Tcase from a '90-97 RBV. They'll have the 1310 adaptor already there....but you CANNOT go wrong with a manual tcase. 4wd anytime, all the time. And you can get it in and out of 4L faster than the next guy with the switch can get it into 4H.


bighair: 90-97's are all 1310. 1330 is rear shaft stuff from '98 on. Back to the front, the 1350 cases found in '89 and earlier are spline shafts.
Ya I am starting to look around for a manual Tcase. Been wanting one for a while now. And the shift motor is starting to look like a foot ball. Last thing I want or need is that thing going when I am driving in a snowstorm or something. So if you know anyone with a BW 1354M Let me know.
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