StrangerRanger99's 2wd reg cab - Page 3 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #51  
Old 09-19-2016
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New clutch went in just fine, as did the new slave cylinder & release bearing. Bleeding turned out to be a non-issue. The only unplanned thing I did was change my transmission fluid what leaked out when I removed the drive shaft was way black, & I mean black. Here's a pic of my trans drain plug, you can see all of the metal shavings on there, that can't be too good. I guess at 185,7xx miles that's to be expected, I'm pretty sure that was factory trans fluid, gross.
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  #52  
Old 09-19-2016
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That's not terrible. That's less than what I found in my automatic transmission pan at 113,xxx.

I'd definitely change the fluid, run it for 1,000 miles and change it again to get all the crud out.

There's no large metal chunks, just small filings. After 185 thousand miles, that's gonna happen.
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  #53  
Old 09-19-2016
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Very cool what you've done
I'm a new member to the forum and was looking for info in how to run the RCA wire from my rear plate cam to the cab when I came across your posts.
Can you advise on how to run that RCA cable? I have a Stock 2001 XLT Ranger . No cover on the bed.
Cam unit I am getting comes with a monitor so will be using that vs a new headunit
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  #54  
Old 09-25-2016
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Welcome ZadiasStark, hopefully you have figured out that RCA cable by now but here you go. Backup Camera System Installation Guide - Quality Mobile Video Blog

This is the write up I used to get mine going and it goes over the various types of cam/monitor setups. I've sort of, since then, forgotten. I do remember that the yellow RCA has a red pigtail on either end & that is the trigger, mine's wired into the reverse bulb positive & the other end to my radios cam input. I can't recall for sure but I believe I'm drawing power for the cam from the reverse positive wire too, there's not alot to choose from back there. I ran the wire along the pass side frame & up through one of the bolt holes for the contraption that holds the factory jack, here's a pic, the missing bolt is where I ran my yellow RCA cable. You can't see it because it's under the "carpet".Hope that helped, if you still needed it that is.

TheArcticWolf you nailed my plans on the head, I do plan to change my trans fluid in the near future, I figure I'll put some miles on it first, maybe 1000.

Finally, for this evening, my latest MOD. I have myself some door markers! Superbrightleds has some pre-wired LEDs for accent lighting, I used those wired up to the door switch with a diode (1 on either door) to keep them from coming on unexpectedly, and bam! I chose red because, well, the truck is red. Anyway check it out.

It should be said that the idea sprang to life from a comment made by theArcticWolf a while back about adding door markers and the thought of using the doors vent came from old Wolfy too after checking out his console & something he said about putting LEDs in the air vents got my brain working. I thought "huh, the door has vents" and away I went. Thanks theArcticWolf, you never know where inspiration may strike.
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Last edited by StrangerRanger99; 09-25-2016 at 09:42 PM.
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  #55  
Old 09-25-2016
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That is SWEET, dude! Too bad the XLT door panels don't have those vents.
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  #56  
Old 09-26-2016
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Thanks theArcticWolf, I think it came out pretty good to be honest. And in the event I find a nice set of xlt panels I will simply change from marker lamps to puddle lamps, or both who knows. The wiring is there now.
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  #57  
Old 09-26-2016
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Correction: XLT panels do have the vent there. Thought it was solid. I may have to steal your idea. Just use an LED strip or what?
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  #58  
Old 09-26-2016
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I used these https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ight/639/1929/

I only have one of these little lights per side, wired with a 1 amp diode tapped into the door latch switch (it has 2 wires, you want to use the colored one) and I ran a wire through each door drivers side is tapped into the headlight switch & the passengers is tapped into my new glove box light. The diodes are because other members were having problems with their puddle light coming on with the door shut. Great idea & works like a charm. If you have power windows you can use that as a power source.

One light is pretty sufficient for my tastes, but you may want more, or use a strip. I have like $10 in this MOD & now have a spot to run more lights later on. I say go for it, I think blue would be sweet. Nobody has blue door markers.

Here's the thread about the diode http://www.fordrangerforum.com/how-t...r-light-9.html

Just skip down to where Jp7 posted the hand drawn diagram & read his explanation.

On an unrelated note, where I come from FTW means F#ĘK The World. So I laugh every time I see those letters.

Last edited by StrangerRanger99; 09-26-2016 at 08:32 PM.
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  #59  
Old 09-26-2016
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Ah, yes, I should have known. Been wanting to use one of those little guys for a while, now. Thanks for the link.

If I do end up doing that, I am very torn on what color I'd want to use. I'm leaning towards red because that's facing towards the rear of the vehicle. When you see red light, you automatically think to slow down or watch out. If you see any other color, however, your mind doesn't think that way. Conversely, I haven't seen factory red illuminated lights. It seems to be white light with a red marker in most cases. Blue, on the other hand would be color coordinated with what I already have.

I'll have to give that some thought, maybe read up on it a bit.

Also, speaking of diodes; you may want to check out a channel called GreatScott! on youtube. He does tons of projects with LEDs. Afrotechmods is also a good channel to look at.
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  #60  
Old 09-26-2016
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Just saw where you were unhappy about your expo bumper. I feel you dude. I've seen many people, including myself, do the 01-03 xlt/edge bumper on their 4th gens. It's worth a try in my opinion.

Of course, you aren't limited to just 01-03 bumpers. You could go with a bumper like fordzilla80 (AKA Shaun) has. I'd wager that almost any 01-11 bumper would fit up well to your current arrangement. And of course there's always the option of going to a later year, too. Depends how much you want to spend.
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  #61  
Old 09-27-2016
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Yeah this bumper bugs me pretty good. I may remove/rework it I just don't feel like it recently. Possibly cut it up.
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  #62  
Old 10-01-2016
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Well I had to bleed my clutch this morning. Seems that some air wound up in there, so I pulled the master/line/reservoir and strung it up but when I went to push on the pushrod that sucker was hard as a rock. Well I tapped the heck out of the line, you know, just in case, but not a single bubble. OK that's good with me, put it all back together & "gravity bled" the slave & got A TON of bubbles! I ran about 4 reservoirs of fluid through before they stopped. I guess I missed some the first time around. I also noticed a small leak around the Tran's fill plug so I gave it a nudge. Well the initial drive around the block the pedal feels much better now so I guess it's always wise to double-check your work, then check it again a couple weeks later.
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  #63  
Old 10-01-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StrangerRanger99 View Post
Well I had to bleed my clutch this morning. Seems that some air wound up in there, so I pulled the master/line/reservoir and strung it up but when I went to push on the pushrod that sucker was hard as a rock. Well I tapped the heck out of the line, you know, just in case, but not a single bubble. OK that's good with me, put it all back together & "gravity bled" the slave & got A TON of bubbles! I ran about 4 reservoirs of fluid through before they stopped. I guess I missed some the first time around. I also noticed a small leak around the Tran's fill plug so I gave it a nudge. Well the initial drive around the block the pedal feels much better now so I guess it's always wise to double-check your work, then check it again a couple weeks later.
I'm not sure how you're bleeding your system, but the use of a vacuum pump on the end of the bleed nipple to suck the fluid through works very well.
A bit of teflon tape on the nipple threads keeps the vacuum pump from sucking air around the threads.
The Teflon tape also keeps dirt and water from contaminating the threads.

There are also kits available that utilize compressed air to simply push the fluid through.
These are extremely useful for major brake over-hauls.
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  #64  
Old 10-23-2016
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Well I haven't done much to the Ranger lately, although I did change out my horns with some Cadillac 4 note "train" horns. I mounted those 4 horns just above & behind the front bumper in front of the radiator. You can't see them & they are underneath the radiators plastic "wind funnel" thingy so they're not really blocking the airflow. Anyways they're pretty loud & have a nice full tone to em. I have to go back in & rewire as they are currently all running off of the factory circuit. I plan on using these handy relays that I salvaged from a Volvo, they're dual pole/single throw, meaning I can split the horns into 2 pairs using one relay. The main thing stopping me right now is my suddenly obvious over-use of inline fuse holders. They work just fine but look crappy just hanging there. So I'm looking for a nice clean auxiliary fuse box, preferably one that also accommodates relays. At that point I will probably T-tap the factory horn relay signal wire, run my new horn circuit, and hook my factory horns back up and have SIX horns! Haha that's ridiculous.

My local upull&pay had customer appreciation day today, 50% off. So I came home with a tilt steering column and leather wrapped wheel out of a 2001 xlt. The wheel itself is decent but it does have some ugly wrinkles in it, so it may or may not go in. I'd like to either find one in really good shape, recover this one, or look into another wheel from a mustang or Lincoln or something. Wood grain would be flipping sweet but I don't think such a thing exists.

I got tired of looking at my grey rear bumper pad so I popped it off & painted it black. Much better.

Sometime this week I will install the tilt wheel and hopefully install my mirror mounted turn signals, adding some red puddle lamps & blacking out the window trim since it will be apart. At some point I need to change my trans fluid again to finish the flush out. So I shall be busy.

I'll put pics up soon, it's dark & it's late & I'm feeling lazy.
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  #65  
Old 10-30-2016
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Today was the day...for tilt steering! I got my donor column from a 2001 ranger xlt, it has the leather (although it's crazy dirty) & tilt, plus it was from an automatic which I don't have. So after ditching the shift lever & all associated components I was ready for the real work.

Park with the wheels facing straight, locking the steering wheel helps as well.

Tools needed:
Phillips screwdriver
7mm, 8mm sockets or nut drivers
14mm deep well socket
The first thing I did was disconnect both battery terminals, turn the headlight switch on & go inside the house for an hour or so. This was to discharge any residual energy in the trucks electrical system so the airbag doesn't go off in my face. Now I'm not sure if all that was really necessary but it sure didn't hurt matters.

Next it was time to remove the knee bolster, the metal cover behind that, the gauge cluster trim, & of course the column shroud. Now I'm not gonna go into detail about this part, because if you're like me you've taken your dash apart a dozen times.

Now it's time to disconnect all of the columns electrical plugs. There were 5 of them on my truck but there would be 6 if I had the PATS, otherwise known as a factory alarm. Two brown connectors on the right(PATS utilizes the adjacent white connection,mine is capped off), a yellow & a grey on the left, & the large grey ignition switch connection with a bolt holding it to the column, and as always be very careful with every plug as the plastic can be very brittle. I had to "re-pin" one connection because the junkyard one was broken pretty good.

Now it's time to unbolt this sucker, I started with the bolt in the u-joint, then the four that hold it up & it just slides right out, be careful not to break anything though. I waited to remove the airbag until this point although it's possible to remove it before the column, dealers choice really.

This is where things got interesting and also where most of the 2 1/2 hours went. After removing the airbag I decided to re-use the trucks original electronics. The turn signal multi switch went on just fine, then I turned my attention to the clock spring wiring & could not figure out how it unplugs from behind, the one in the yellow sheath. So rather than breaking it I left it in place, it looked good and the only difference was 3 extra wires for the cruise control which I don't have & don't plan on installing, no biggie. Now the cruise control buttons I wanted to 86 but was only able to ditch the wiring. The reason being I don't have the necessary puller to remove the wheel to swap the back cover, removing the switch pods left a big hole in the wheel cover that I wasn't expecting. So I left the pods on for now, they don't do a damn thing though.

Now that all of the electronics are switched over all that's left is the ignition barrel. Removal is as easy as turning the key to the acc position & pushing in a tiny steel ball from underneath using something pointy & gently pulling it out. DO NOT TURN THE KEY WITH THE BARREL REMOVED! This can potentially ruin the barrel, I never do it. Now just put it into the new column, turn the key to remove & there you go, easy money.

With everything swapped over the install is the reversal of removal. With the wheels straight & the wheel locked level it should be pretty easy to align the u-joint to the column, although if it's giving you trouble a trick here is to turn the key so the steering wheel turns freely & line it up that way. Don't forget the bolt here, I almost drove off without it but caught my mistake before I left the driveway. That could have been very, very dangerous.

Everything went to back together rather easily & all the blinkers & stuff work so I'd say it was a success. I still have to pull the wheel & swap the back covers but that's can wait for now.
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StrangerRanger99's 2wd reg cab-imag0404.jpg   StrangerRanger99's 2wd reg cab-imag0405.jpg   StrangerRanger99's 2wd reg cab-imag0407.jpg   StrangerRanger99's 2wd reg cab-imag0406.jpg  
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  #66  
Old 10-30-2016
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Nice swap! Becareful with that airbag, though. One wrong move and it'll rearrange your face.
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  #67  
Old 11-01-2016
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Thanks theArcticWolf it's been pretty nice so far, I like the feel of the leather wheel, I just wish it was in a little better shape. I searched every ranger & Expo in the yard too & came away with the best one.

That airbag scares me. I disconnected the battery for an hour & took every opportunity to be either behind or underneath the thing. Even when I had it out I set it 15ft away with absolutely nothing around it. I was handling the thing like a bomb, because well, that's basically what it is.
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  #68  
Old 11-01-2016
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You can never be too safe with an airbag. Although, technically speaking, once it's electrically disconnected, there's no way for it to activate. It's when you plug it back in that it's the scary part!

I oughta deploy one in my driveway to see what kind of kick it's got; on the ground.
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  #69  
Old 11-18-2016
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So I haven't been on for a while because I've been saving for tires, but I have done a couple things to the truck. First off I flushed my clutch fluid & replaced with new. It seems that the fluid I had used when I did the clutch had gotten contaminated with water (note to self:keep brake fluid inside not out in the rain). Ever since I did the clutch I haven't been happy with the pedal, half pedal when hot full when cold outside. So after the change all seems well, much better gear shifts now.

Also I've experimented with door puddle lamps & am not sure if I want to keep them. I just mounted a strip of red LEDs under the door & am on the fence about the whole project. My biggest gripe is that from a distance you can see the actual LED strip. I like to keep things low key, like any MOD looks like it belongs there & not like some tuner kid went wild at pep boys. So they may come off.

Also I've been attempting to wrap my spare steering wheel with a generic leather wrap from the parts store. Sounded easy. I'm on the third time stitching it up now since the first two times it either had wrinkles or wasn't uniform around the spokes. I will post up some pics when it's in a presentable state.

And tires, 265 75 r16 Firestone adventurer AT. Gonna get em installed tomorrow. Getting a pretty good deal too $520 with road hazard mount & balance. Pics tomorrow.
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  #70  
Old 11-19-2016
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Okay, so I read your thread start to finish and I must say, you have been rather busy! Love what you have done to the truck thus far, and I see you do nice work (lots of thought and planning). TheArcticWolf ("Wolfy"... I loved that ) is my son and I see he has been following you. Your under-hood light: I saw one of those at our pull-a-part but is was busted. Didn't know it was a Chevy OEM thing. I will have to look for one next time we are there. Keep up the good work and good luck with your future mods... I will return from time to time to check your progress!
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  #71  
Old 11-20-2016
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Cool, thanks mhoward for the positive words & for checking out my build page. It's pretty cool how we can use the forum to reach people that we otherwise wouldn't have, drawing inspiration & using our experiences to maybe help somebody through a project of their own.

Well yesterday was about tires. I had gone down last week to my local Firestone dealer, got a quote for a set of destination AT's for $520 but decided to wait & continue shopping. Well after a week of tire comparisons I decided to go get them & guess what, they didn't seem to know what I was talking about. Gave me another quote of $689, wth? Long story short I purchased a set of tires with a name I've never heard of-Primewell Valera AT. $500.84 for 265 75 r16's OTD with road hazard, rotation, mount/balance & a 50K mi tread wear rating. Now I don't know much about these tires besides the fact that I could afford them, apparently it's a Singapore based company that manufactures in China. Not a whole lot of reviews out there just a ton of warnings about made in China stuff. Whatever I needed tires in a bad way, my fronts had 1/32 tread in the center & 2/32 on the edge, not to mention they were dry rotted pretty badly & developing large cracks just a hair shy of being actual holes. I hit a pothole the other day & my life flashed before my eyes! That pothole left a big gash across the drivers front about 3in long. Driving was becoming dangerous. I must say these tires seem to be pretty good on & off road. On road they are so much quieter than the old Dunlop mud rovers were. I must have gotten used to their humming because with the new tires it seemed silent, I really have to listen for the noise they make. Good grip on dry pavement & they handled some mild off roading like a champ, they did great on dirt roads with a mix of sand/gravel. So far I've only put about 90 miles on them (25 in the mesa) & am happy with the ride feel, but I realize they are brand new & time will tell how they hold up. I didn't spring for load range E because I don't haul anything heavy (heaviest load to date was my 8.8 posi rear end & spare tire) & I wanted a more comfortable ride from a more flexible sidewall. Well how much can a man possibly talk about tires, here they are with 10mi on them.




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  #72  
Old 11-20-2016
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I had a set of Primewell tires on a Taurus I used to own. I had about 40K miles on them when I sold the car and I was quite happy with the ride and wear of them. These tires you bought have a really nice, semi-aggressive tread pattern. A good choice (in my opinion) for a street/mild off road vehicle such as yours. The price was good too! I think you will be quite happy with them, and they look good on your truck!
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  #73  
Old 11-20-2016
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I gripe allot about Chinese made products, but their tires seem to be OK.
The Korean ones are fine too, never had a problem.
In another forum a guy who worked in a tire shop for many years never had a problem with Chinese tires either, when he balanced them, they always round.
He had lots of North American made tires that were not round.
You could balance them of course, but they simply were not round.
He made sure that the guys mounting the tires put the defective ones on the back.
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  #74  
Old 11-20-2016
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Many moons ago, when I was a general auto mechanic and tire tech, we always put the tires with the most weights on the rear. We didn't have any way to determine if they were out of round. Small shop in the 70's and 80's... no high tech there!
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  #75  
Old 11-27-2016
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I finally did it! I installed my mirror turn signals that is. Along the way I learned alot about how the '06+ mirrors are assembled since I, either through foolishness or carelessness, had to disassemble the drivers side mirror. The first issue I had was removing the mirror glass from the housing, there was enough room to stick my fingers in there and disengage (I thought) the retaining clips. Well guess what, I pulled too hard and snapped one of the little pins that allow the mirror to pivot and are absolutely integral to the glass not falling out. Kinda crap design but hey I'm the monkey who broke it. A dab of superglue later & I'm back in business.

I only took one pic but it's an interesting one. It turns out there is no need to drill a hole anywhere as there is already an existing path for wiring. Look here
If you look you can see how I ran my wires down the inside of the hinge pin (spring) and how it pops out underneath.

CAUTION! Do not remove the hinge pin & separate the two halves of the housing, it is a PITA to put back together, it took me an hour to finally get it reassembled.

After mounting them back to the truck & getting the wires into the cab I found the turn signal wires under the dash thanks to theArcticWolf

https://www.ranger-forums.com/projec...147202/page13/

He's already done this MOD and has kindly posted the turn signal wiring diagram for us (check model year). Look towards the bottom of pg.13, he's also done a nice write up of his install that's very helpful. Just skip the part about drilling a hole.

Props to theArcticWolf for all of the help his given us, whether he knows it or not.

Long story short, drilling is unnecessary. Run the wires down the center of the hinge pin. It's easier and you won't run the risk of pinching or binding.
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Last edited by StrangerRanger99; 11-27-2016 at 08:52 AM.
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