I recently bought a 1997 5 speed 2wd ranger. I read through all the treads and really couldn’t determine my issues 100%. When I start the truck and take off it’s shifts fine but by the time I have to stop and take off again it doesn’t like to go into gear (any gear)! If I hold the clutch down for like 10 more seconds then most of the time it’ll actually let me in gear. I know it’s not disengaging all the way but I check the slave and it’s not wet. I’m not losing/leaking any fluid from the clutch hydraulic system anywhere. I haven’t bled the system just yet but I plan to tmr to see where that gets me but I’ve already changed the trans fluid. The petal feels good for the most part except it feels a little bit sticky coming back up like it wants to stay to the flour just a tiny bit. If bleeding doesn’t help what do you think it would be?

 

Sounds like a classic case of the master cylinder failing to me.

They can leak internally and not lose any fluid, the internal seals are bad.

 

i didn’t even think about that but I bet you’re right. Thank you for the insight.

 

I have a 1997 5 speed with a 2.3. So I have changed every component to the clutch and clutch hydrolic system and still can’t figure out why it doesn’t want to go into gear when I first press the clutch but after a few extra seconds of holding the clutch petal it will go into gear. I have bled the system several times probably using over a 100 ounces of fluid total. I vacuum bled, pressure bled and even tried to use the bleeder screw on the slave but the bleeder screw on the slave just made air get into the brand new master cylinder that is located at the petal. So I tried the trick where you pull the piston out of the master down at the petal and it worked better than anything else but still not what it should be. I just installed a standard non adjustable clutch instead of the adjustable one. The clutch isn’t the problem it’s something else.

 

The non-SAC(adjustable) pressure plate is the issue now assuming new clutch disc

It will be hard to get into gear when stopped for a month or so until the new disc wears down a bit

I would suggest starting engine while in 1st, and shifting into 1st while still rolling to a stop, and just hold the clutch pedal down at stop signs or stop lights, do NOT shift into Neutral
If you want you can shut off the engine at longer lights and then restart in 1st when its time

SAC pressure plates can be reused, BUT(big but), they need to be reset using a hydraulic press or jack, to put them back to fully recessed for the new clutch disc thickness




The transmission can not be disconnected from the rear wheels, so when you are stopped the transmission RPMs are 0
To shift into 1st gear(or any gear) when stopped, the input shaft(clutch disc) must ALSO be at 0 RPMs

The clutch disc(input shaft) is in between the flywheel and pressure plate, which are BOTH spinning at 750RPM, engine idle, 1,000rpm when engine is cold

When you press the clutch pedal down it should push the Slave cylinder out enough to take the pressure off the clutch disc so it is free to slow down to 0 RPMs, only then can you put it "in gear"
The self adjusting pressure plate allows for new clutch disc thickness, non-self adjusting doesn't
So until the disc wears down a bit, so it doesn't rub on the flywheel or pressure plate, it will be hard to get into gear when stopped

Do NOT force it into gear, you will break off a roll pin on a shift fork, shut off the engine, 0rpms, put it in 1st then restart
You can sometimes try shifting into 3rd or 4th gear to get the input shaft to slow down to 0 RPMs, then shift into 1st

As the new disc wears down it will get easier to shift


One thing that wasn't mentioned, you have an M5OD-R1 transmission, it uses ATF, yes automatic transmission fluid in a manual trans, Mercon V
If you or someone else put in Gear Oil(80-90w) then transmission will be very hard to shift into any gear even while moving

 

I did replace trans fluid with atf and it’s been a little over a month of use with about 3500 or so miles on the new clutch. It’s definitely broke in now. And even when rolling it doesn’t want to go into gears that well on down shift. Shifting up it’s does better but I pretty much can’t get it into first while rolling or stopped unless I keep the clutch pressed for an extended period of time. No grinds or anything though.

 

Yes, its for sure not the transmission, I assume it shifts fine engine off

When down shifting increase engine RPMs to match rear wheel/drive shaft RPMs, up shifting is easier because engine RPMs are usually going down while shifting so matches drive shaft RPMs


While rare, the hose from the Master cylinder to the Slave can get "weak", so it expands just a little when you press down the pedal, this means less fluid goes to the slave, so it doesn't expand all the way, and you get what you have now

As said the clutch disc, and input shaft, need to come to a complete stop, 0 RPMs, to shift into any gear when stopped
For this to happen the clutch disc must be fully released from flywheel and pressure plate

Only other thing that can keep input shaft turning is the Pilot Bearing in the end of the crank shaft, but these usually make a noise when they are failing

One other thing, there is a "Block plate" between engine and bell housing, like a thin spacer, do you remember if it's there?
Without it, its possible the input shaft is pressing too hard on crank, but extreme long shot

 

Bad or improperly installed pilot bearing
Missing alignment dowels/pins between engine and bell housing
Wire/dirt or something pinched between engine and bell housing

 

I pulled everything apart and checked and rechecked everything. It’s all there and all correct. I guess it may just be some air left somewhere that I’m going to have to find.

 

That was my problem. Need a new clutch master cylinder.